Or would it just weaken them with the heat treatment imposed by the welder?

Because if i remember right ,they are only spot welded aren't they...

regards,
Christopher.

I have read about people doing it and have also seen plating kits to box them up but I would also be interested in hearing of some practical experience?

Would you stitch weld them if you were going to do it?

Newt

yep I seam weld mine.............and then use a K Bar kit for support.

Chris yes it is a good idea and i would add the benefit of K bar or as a Baja just build it into a good engine cage to support the forks from trying to torque down

yep its a good idea. I plan to do mine as soon as i can fine a dam swing axle type 3 sub frame so I can haz some frame horns in the first place.

i also going to tig all the seams in the rear end of the body around where the sub frame bolts on.

As a thought, when you seam weld them- do you end up buring the paint off the inside and open the way to rusting?

Newt

depend on how much heat you use. If you are any good with tig, then should be no problem at all. Most newer tigs have a pulse setting which is for heat control.

Pulse is a no brainer setting for those who aren't skilled enough yet to take full advantage of the slope up/down feature.

While you're welding ive heard its a good idea to weld all seams that you can find. tunnel, frame horn, etc

Thanks for all the help guys

At the moment its only me and my trusty arc... the Mig needs to go in for a service.
That'll do .

I'll park it on a slope and put a few litres unscented fish oil in there lol...
Thats if there really is... an 'unscented' fish oil.

I guess the same would apply if you were plug welding on new pan halve's

Newt

Yeah Newt, plug weldind pan 1/2's or any spot weld type repair has it's own set of issues. To get a decent weld, both surfaces need to be clean bare metal, then when fitted together, there is an area between the two panels where rust can't help but form, two panels of bare metal touching each other and definately open to air and moisture. The only options are protect the metal with weld through primer before welding, seal the join after welding and using a non hardening, capillary acting rust preventative to get into the area, even where you can't see, I do all three on my jobs...... I hate rust and I dislike repairing it, but even worse, I hate repairing it where it's been repaired before.

Matt

Ever use penetrol to get into those nooks and cranies?

Cheers

Newt

Not personally Newt, I think it may set (dry and not stay liquid).

My fav is a home brew, 60/30/10, fisholene/new engine oil/diesel.