Advice required on the replacement of Floor Pans to Type 1 .
The situation as it stands are that the body has been removed and floor pan rust and all is about to be turned on it side so as the appropriate cut can be made along Y Bone and along the front of the tunnel. I will be MIG welding in the new floor pans which are full length (Brazil). Please advise of any traps or any helpful hints.

Brad (blup58) and I recently replaced both pan halves on his 58 pan (when body was off). Process basically was:

1) Take some measurements from points on the tunnel to bolt holes along the outside edge to help align the new pans.
2) Drill out all spot welds along tunnel and front and back edges (trying not to drill right through the pan lip.
3) Remove old pan halves
4) Trial fit new pan halves - there is always some trimming required unless you are very lucky
5) If you are up to it tack the pans in place then refit the body to check all the bolt holes align (don't have to bolt everything up, just see if it aligns).
6) Remove body and weld in place - options are to seem weld along new pan half edge, or punch/drill holes in new pan half edge and rosette weld (fill up the holes) the pan half to the lip on the tunnel.
7) clean welds up, apply seem sealer and paint.

hope this helps a bit
Alan

A couple of general hints / tips with floor pan replacements;

#1 - ALWAYS try and get german pan halves - they are hard to find , but significantly thicker.

#2 - If using brazilian halves, always either cut off the seat rails and replace with the original rails from the original pans, or seam weld the ones that come with the pans - they are only spot welded and can come loose in an accident.

#3 - if you lap joint the pan half to back bone joint, be sure to either weld both sides if you can, or to seal the other side with a strong weather proof sealer.

Apart from that, enjoy the feeling of a brand new floor in your bug