Just thought I'd share some info with you...

I recently had my 63 beetle pan sandblasted and etch primed, then sprayed chassis coat (made by same company as por15) over it. I found that even with two coats the coverage was still very thin and when I trial fitted my beam etc bits chipped off and scratched.

I was disappointed considering it cost over $100/L - I rang the company to see what I should do, they said that ideally you should leave the pan bare metal then apply POR15 rust prevantative paint over it (it has excellent adhesive properties to bare metal), then apply the chassis coat over that (because that will stick to the por15 extremely well).

I now have two options, 1) strip pan back to bare metal and start again, 2) apply another coat of chassis coat to build up thickness which should limit how easily it will chip. I am probably going to go the second option but if I had my time again I guess I'd go via the manufacturers recommendations and apply it all over bare metal.

Interestingly my mate applied the same paint on his pan (over etch primer) by brush instead of spraying...his chips nowhere near as easy because of the thickness, but the finish isn't as smooth as mine which was sprayed. I will apply my next coat by brush because it generally self levels quite well.

Cheers
Alan

Hi Alan

Ive used por-15 on my 67 pan and im pretty happy with the results. I havent used the chassicoat though.
When i applied the por15 paint i treated the bare metal with 'metal ready' and painted it on with one thick coat, its amazing stuff, it self levels and you cant see any brush marks. when it dried i couldnt scratch it or flake it. Ive also used it on the rear of my bumpers for my daily driver 71 super, its been in the melbourne weather for about 18 months since and no rust has come through.
in case anyones wondering i dont work for ppc paints

can u paint por 15 over the chassis coat
?
cheers, chris

I have used POR15 with a brush only, and with fantastic results.:thumb

Not sure about por15 over the chassis coat? Supposedly the por15 isn't as UV stable as the chassis coat which means that it may fade/change colour over time.

http://www.ppc.au.com 

has more details..I think with some thicker coats of the chassis coat I will be okay because I really don't want to strip the pan again!!

Bummer Dude,
After all that carefull work. Quite a shame really.

if all else fails read the instructions, hey

I read the instructions and had the underneath of my splitty shot blasted then painted POR15 on the bare metal.
It is solid and will not chip of or crack when hit with a hammer.

If I had spent $100 per liter I would have read the instructions first.

Why did you use chassis coat and not POR15?

cheers
Dave:jesus

wats the best way to paint the underside of ur pan?
put it on a hoist or sumthing?
just wondering coz i will be doing this soon...

Yep I read the instructions and got advice from the company before applying. I was told that although the bond between the chassis coat and the etch primer would not be as strong as the por15 on bare metal, it would still hold up well.

Since I already had the pan in etch primer I decided to go for the chassis coat option rather than the por15 rust prevantative paint (uv stable and satin finish was attractive).

Such is life, I thought I'd share my mistake/misfortune with others.

I painted the underside by flipping the bare pan and resting it on saw horses.

Had a closer inspection on the pan before laying down this coat and it was only in certain areas where it was very thin that it would chip/scratch. Now back on track - painted another coat on the pan this time by brush. Got a much heavier coat down with much better results.

I don't think the adhesion onto the primer is a big worry (as first suspected), it was more the thickness that counts. Self levelled well, still not as great a finish as spraying but if I ever do it again I will definitely brush it on first time. Only ran a tiny bit on the tunnel.

Just to clarify yes I did read the instructions first and I did contact the manufacturers rep here in oz before starting....I'm all for taking the piss, but "read instructions first" comments are a bit obvious and unhelpful. Anyways, no dramas, just had to vent Just glad I didn't have to strip the thing....again.

no offence glad to here its back on track
dave:o:o

No probs Dave!

ill get you the address

i think its
http://www.rustbullet.com 

the ppl on volksrodders.com are raving bout it (im a longtime listener one time caller on the forum hehe)

seems better and more econmical
no metal ready etc
just one coar whereas por15 needs metal ready the por 15 then the chassis coat and this stuff is uv stable unlike por15

dunno if its avail in aust but worth a try

if the addy is wront ill update asap
cheers
adz

Looks like the same thing as the POR15 Chassiscoat.

Can't understand the importance of UV resistance on the underside of a pan myself - but it's there.

When i worked in a motorbike shop i had lots of customers who used this stuff on their frames and it stuck like s#%t to a blanket. The offroaders said it was the ducks guts because it was near impossible to chip. I found out more and used it on mine, BUT you MUST follow the directions. I plan on using it under the baja and on the front, rear and side bars.
It should work well in the footwell and in the boot .Im also going to use the hi temp stuff on the engine, gbox and so on.

It costs a small fortune but when you consider how much time and effort you spend on your pride and joy, whats a little more?
hahaha!!! famous last words.

Todd