Beetle IRS

Hi Guys,
Who is making a quality rear hub flange if i look at going down the rear disc route. You have been helpful before so hopefully someone can help...

Shermans makes a blank rear hub flange $300 for the pair + delivery. (ouch$$$)
There is a guy in the states who is doing similar...

Does anyone know who is selling a blank hub flange with a solid mounting thickness so that i can decide on and drill either 4x130 or more probable 5x130 (porsche). I am looking at keeping my costs down so i hope someone is making them or has some...

It has been suggested to machine down an old drum, but appatently then i have to lathe off the ribbs to get a universal thickness and then it becomes thin....

Cheers

Also... Do i just buy reconditioned EA calipers or try and recondition them myself... is it hard work

vintage have some occasionally

Not machine ribs off, but spot face only where stud sits. Studs only option not drill and tap there

Hellbugged, thanks for your help the other day you were really helpful.

Whats the general feeling about maching down an old hub and spot facing five stud holes and studding to suit porsche option. Would be alot cheaper than buying $300 hub flanges... but what cost do you put on safety... Especially is it causes an accident and the insurance doesnt cover you or the car you hit???

ISP make billet 4030 CrMo type 3 hubs. $250 for a pair. Extra thick also

https://www.vwispwest.com/product.php?ispproduct=vwispwest&cat=428&pa...

$300 is the going rate

Can i doubble drill a blank hub for 4x130 and 5x130?

My type 3 brakes were double drilled for porsche like that, dodgy as, 3 out of 5 holes on the porsche pattern were about 3 threads deep

would be fine on a unifrom thickness blank though

Hellbugged,

Im lost. If you turn down an old drum, why do you need to use studs (and not the original VW wheel bolt)?.

Also, where do you get blank EA / EB rear rotors from these days. Seem DBA will only supply them if you buy a batch of 50.

Cheers

Newt

Quote:

Originally posted by vlad01 ISP make billet 4030 CrMo type 3 hubs. $250 for a pair. Extra thick also https://www.vwispwest.com/product.php?ispproduct=vwispwest&cat=428&pa...

So how dd you golf calipers and 914 rotors go? Got pics, costs info? Otherwise i am looking down the EA route... i rang around the other day and didn't seem to have trouble getting balnks... may have to check.

About the ISP Ones, i have seem them online. How much were they with postage etc... how much in delivered?

Cheers

I wouldnt drill the origional Type 3 hubs as theres not enough meat in between the origional holes to have new holes drill as per above you would only get 3 or so threads for a studs

buy some new undrill hubs ther approx 12 or so mm thick all the way around and have drilled for both stud patterns

I used high tensil bolts to make studs and just screwed them in with a drop of locktite
used Kombi wheel nuts depending on which wheels you have

I spoke to a brake man today, who said that he has been playing with VWs for a long while and that they just drilled the new pattern into the Ford rotor for a VW patern (ie it then had holes for Ford and VW patterns)..

Any one know if that is legal etc.

Cheers

Newt

I heard the same advice... seems like there would be enough parent material.

Dave,

Point taken - but I usually take it that the law is conservative.

Newt

Seriously dude... shell out the $300 and sleep easy that you have a decent quality part that you know won't fail. This a race car after all... the law might be conservative, but everything should be better quality and strength than what is considered legal... theres much higher load and speeds than a street car.

Your $$$ ouch point... well... do you realize you're only talking roughly the cost of a single race tyre ???

The old number 8 (HappyDaze's car) is a good example of what can happen when something like hubs or drums fail... and he HAD NOT made any part/design decisions based on cost. He was just unlucky and got stung by bad quality where a manufacturer possibly skimped on things.

Honestly, don't risk anything less than the best... save the $$$ on stuff like paint that can't wreck your car or worse kill you or someone else.

Sides - I agree with you.

Newt

btw - apologies for the above being a bit of a rant... but yeah, it's definitely the elephant in the room.

Yeah sides you are right

Im always thinking i can do something cheaper if i just suffer through the leg work and do most of it myself. ISP West does a pretty stong and neat chromoly 4130 rear hub for $125 ea i'll post some pics and links.

Cheers guys. Now if i can't find blank EA falcon rotors can i safely drill new 5x130 holes?

I think i'll start a new EA reardisc conversion thread.

Cheers guys.

http://www.vwispwest.com/product.php?productid=38437&cat=428&page=1 

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=87353  my new thread

bit on the thin side Joel

the ones above look meatie

interested to see if those ISP ones arrive with both spotfaced sted holes AND drilled and tapped for 5 X 130 wheel bolts. or is it just for display purposes there with both options? for sure they have some MEAT! lots of weight

had a look at Shermans drive flanges at Valla and they looked fine. not ribbed as per Joels originals there and thickness i would sumise the same thickness as the ribbed part of the VW ones, cept all way round (UNIFORM )

.....and the price of them would end up same as ISP after freight.

when i mentioned studding the VW ones for 130mm X 5 i was thinking of the push in studs with "foot" end with spot facing of the flange for them to sit in and not of screw in studs, so not to be still relying on only a few threads.....

yes 130mm X 5 can be drilled around the ford pattern in the discs.....

Ive got Shermans on mine they the best around at the time of purchase drill and screwed studs both 5 n 4 stud pattern

I've got Shermans rear discs on mine now which are only a few years old but they still have the standard 4 rib reinforcing which is of no consequence to me as I'm running 4 lug anyway.
I'm wondering if they're turned down bug drums not type3 rotors, as the ribs are alot bigger and flatter like a bug drum has

So i don't know if he just sells those for stock pattern and uniform thickness ones if you order some other pattern

What I wanted, was rear discs with a 5 x 130 (Porsche) stud pattern. Like you, Aussie Vee Dubbin, I wasn't sure which way to go. I looked at getting 944 rears but they increased the track and ca be difficult and expensive to source. The E-Brake also isn't bolt on afaik.
I looked around at what others were doing and came across this http://www.airsouls.com/how-tos/rear_discs.htm 
It looked good as I had a pair of 914 rotors kickin around. So, I machined down my standard hub so it would fit inside the rotor. It by the time it fitted inside the rotor, there was bugger all metal between the stud and the outside of the hub. It was totally dodgy and unsafe.
I'd seen the ISP hubs and asked if these would fit inside a 914 rotor. Anthony (ISP) said that they wouldn't but I bought them anyway. When they arrived, I dropped them inside the 914 rotors and it was like they were made for it! Fitted perfectly. They cost me just under $350 landed and arrived in 10 days. These things are beautiful and worth every measily cent of 350. Yes, hellbugged, they come just like they do in the pic. They have a 5 x 130 threaded pattern for screw in studs and holes for 5 x 130 push in studs.

I'll list what I did for my late panned Type 3 with prices.
Bought ISP 5 x 130 - $350
Ordered rear caliper brackets from Mike Sharp from Sharbuilt - $215
Ordered used rear Mark 2 calipers from Mike also - $185
*Note - Don't expect that order to come quickly from Mike. It took TWO MONTHS to arrive. Very little communication also. They did arrive though..
Ordered NEW 914 rotors from Auto Atlanta (US)- $220
Had hard/soft rear brake lines made by ENZED. - $150
DC red obligatory heat paint - $15.
Bought 70mm x 10mm push in studs from "NICE PRODUCTS" in Marrickville- $110
Bought 8mm spacers (to get the clearance from the shock tower to the tyre) - $25.

Total - Shite... $1270. I couldn't be happier though.

This bolts together like it came straight out of a factory and is bullet proof. The caliper/pads match up perfectly to the rotor.
On the pricey side..yes but again, as previously mentioned don't scrimp on brakes!
If anyone wants to come over for a look see, pm me.

Cheers,
Steve

Ill get more detailed pics son and add them to my updates over in the Type 3 section.