i have a freind here in perth who bought alan herberts old beetle from qld, but he seems to be having issues with cooling..its a 2332cc,idas,wedge ports and a fk8...runs smooth as silk....but it gets 120deg realy easy,30 degree day and only 10 mins on the freeway...its running aporshe 11 blade and two big oil coolers with fans and air scoopes and a thermostat that opens at 90 deg...2 laps around barbagalo today, about 70 secons each lap it got to 125deg with a hoodjax...

anyone have any ideas,we are racing on sunday and would like to get this fixed before then...

thanks.....

do you have correct qty of oil in the engine

what grade oil are you running ??

is the fan belt correct tension not slipping

are there any air leaks from the fan shroud tinware

what A/F ratio is it running ?

What type of cooling are you running , what size crank pully? Photo of set up would be good.

um....air/fuel ratio?

"porsche fan" there's your issue, well at least half of it.

The fans are good but the shrouds are always problematic.

sharpbuilt shroud - considered to be the best on the market.
Alan also installed the porsche factory air deflector to help overcome hotspots...

EFI or Carby?

One word!

DTM

I don't feel the fan is to blame, and if Alan fitted the Porsche air vane to the alternator, I think the problem will be lack of air supply (propped decklid kills that idea) or the tune up is not right.

Didn't Alan have the same heat problem when the car was in QLD ?


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=82195&page=4 

thanks for the replys everyone..

im not sure about the a/f but i did tell him to tell the dyno guy to aim for 12.5 a/f with descent throttle...not sure what the outcome was though...all i know is it made 130@wheels, they did make 140whp but was to lean....so they jetted it for the 130whp....it runs realy nice with the ida's.... ill get him to ring the dyno guy.....

um, only other thing i can think of is his pissy little breather box which i told him to get a big 2ltr one made up as its spitting some oil from behind the pulley...so could it be buiding to much crank case pressure and thats whats causing the heat aswell??

what about the engine to body compartment seal is this good and not allowing warm air to be sucked back in

is all the HOT air getting away from the engine ???

yep crankcase pressure will heat things up

is the muffler too close to the head so its transfereing heat to the engine

I am suggesting the above believeing that your engine is in a good tune up and running the correct air fuel ratio or a little FAT as you have suggested above

do like synthetic oils prefer the good old natural stuff out of the ground

all the exaust is wrapped in exaust wrap and the muffler is in the std spot as usaul for a fat boy.... all the engine seals are new and sealed...have tried hoodjax and the bottom decklid out.....

Where's the temp sender and what brand (is it accurate)??

Hi

As Matt said, also make sure that the sender is the correct one for that gauge.

Steve

well,whatever the problem is,is we cant find it...
called richerd at vforce and told him the jetting and we thought it had 135 mains, he said there is the problem u need at least 155 with the 180 airs.so i popped over jeffs place to have a look and it had 155's....ggrrrrr.....timing is at 32deg advanced but the plugs had at least 100 thou gap so we put new plugs in with 45 thou gap....not sure if plug gap has any affect on heat.... it also has a new 2ltr breather on.......so after these changes im not sure what to look for....

check the oil cooler fans flow correct direction.....with room for the hot air to "exhaust" away?

for me i'd be mounting the cooler on the front bumper......all our cars are done with that and it drops temp right back. just use an oil thermostat.

.........yeah i'd think bigger than 155 mains........

what are the idles?

that car had louvered boot lid?.......louvers facing down with porsche fan sucking in through them.......hmmmmmm.......

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=82195&page=4 

Where's the temp sender....altho I agree, sounds too hot

Quote:

Originally posted by matberry Where's the temp sender....altho I agree, sounds too hot

That's the best location, definately check the sender is correct for the gauge. VDO gauge so.......sender will have VDO and a part no. and a full scale *C number written on the spanner flats of the fitting. Check the full scale number *C matches the full scale reading on the gauge.....120* or 150* are the two VDO make.

I remember a while ago, when Alan owned the car, he ws having overheating probems,
but i thought he had solved them.
Perhaps it was fine while he was just putting around.

I am hoping it is an error with gauge or sender,
but for reference,
at the time, he tried changing the fan direction,
checked the gauge with some calibration thing from his work,
and even made some scoops for the cooler that apparently made good improvements.

Even his old 1775cc engine used to over heat,
so perhaps it is gauge or sender related.

The 155 main jet is more than big enough, being that it had only 37 venturis,
but I would hope that the dyno trip was able to determine whether the 180 air jet was not making it lean up high.

That engine runs tight deck height, so needs less ignition timing.
I would begin with a total figure of 28 degrees.
That is worth some heat.

Most of the castings on the 044s have a lot of casting flash,
so some careful action with a small drill can clear these areas for a little more through-flow.

Make sure the lower cylinder tin is attached to the upper tin to prevent back flow when the car is moving.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1339 

Lately I have been removing the breather from he left rocker cover.
It is full of oil at anything above 3000rpm,
so I cap that one and add one to the case.(two total in case)
My own engine has no vents in the covers at all.
Nothing related to the temp prob, but a good way to stop oil all over your engine bay.

Lastly, those fans flow heaps of air,
so provided the pulley ratio is correct, and the fan is supplied with plenty of fresh air,
it should be able to be used with good results.
Fat Performance has used those style of shrouds and fans for years and their 3lt type 4s run for thousands of miles through the desert.

Last resort would be to move or enlarge the cooler,
but some times this is the only solution,
so it may be in the car's future.

ill get him to replace the sender and gauge and see what happens...and ill back the timing off....then we will go from here......thanks everyone....

oh and it has 39mm vents, well thats what it said on his tech sheet....

for what it is worth ..................

If it has 39 vents then 4.2 x 39 = 163.8

I would be upping the mains to 165's

So is this still running hot or is it all fixed now ?