Hi all,
I am after suggestions, photos or any advice re adding pump stops for full steering lock left and right. Due to the larger wheels, if I turn full
lock in either direction the inside rear of the front tyres touches the body down near the floor pan. I need to work out a way of adding a bump stop
to alleviate this problem. I could just not turn the steering wheel as far, but the engineer wouldn't except this method 
Note: This is a 61 Beetle with L/P front end.
Thanks, Kevin
on our beetle they have adjustable steering stops welded on the front beam and the steering box Pittman arm stops against. I also think that Kombies have them to, your have probably been cut off ???
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Apparently the steering lock stops are a BJ beam only thing.
I don't think it would be too difficult to knock something similar up for a k&l beam tho... just need to steal the different pitman arm from a BJ
beam.
When (if?) it stops raining I'll go out to the shed and grab some pics of the BJ beam setup.
O Mine may have been modified
my super bug have stops on the steering idler arm.
Thanks Dave, but dont worry. I will do some photo research and see what they are like. Also to see if the pitman arm can be used on mine and what
else is required.
Kev
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| Originally
posted by Camo Hi all, I am after suggestions, photos or any advice re adding pump stops for full steering lock left and right. Due to the larger wheels, if I turn full lock in either direction the inside rear of the front tyres touches the body down near the floor pan. I need to work out a way of adding a bump stop to alleviate this problem. I could just not turn the steering wheel as far, but the engineer wouldn't except this method Note: This is a 61 Beetle with L/P front end. Thanks, Kevin |
The steering stop on a link pin beam is at the king pin where the front backing plate bolt is. Because it's old and gets quite some force applied due to the design, the mating surfaces are often slightly pounded. To rectify this or in a case like yours, I'd use a longer front backing plate bolt so it protrudes through the stub axle slightly further and becomes a new stop. It's tricky to get just right as very small increments of adjustments makes a difference, but by putting a longer bolt in and grinding it down progressively does the trick. Be sure to replace with the correct grade of bolt.
Matberry,
you are a genius, thanks heaps. I just had a look and I can see exactly what you mean. Because I put the disc brake caliper bracket on, the bolts
dont come through quite far enough. I will get a longer bolt and just grind it down to the appropriate length.
Cheers, Kev
Ian, we can all learn from this
o yeah those aftermarket spindles don't have lock stop bumps, They just flat where the front bolt goes, why didn't you ask that .
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| Originally
posted by ian.mezz o yeah those aftermarket spindles don't have lock stop bumps, They just flat where the front bolt goes, why didn't you ask that . |
Maybe you had better get Rose's advise before posting
Rose must have left the computer on..... maybe she needs a child lockout on it ! 
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Originally
posted by Camo
Sorry to correct you again Ian, but they are original VW spindles (stub axles) and not aftermarket. But nice try Maybe you had better get Rose's advise before posting |
:
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| Originally
posted by Craig Torrens Rose must have left the computer on..... maybe she needs a child lockout on it ! |
Glad it worked ok Kev.
