http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp 



What do you think of this video?

wow...looks to easy

That is sensational!!


Smiley

Be prepared for hours of frustration, while getting the 'feel' and many 'cocky sh1t' results.
An old mate used get some amazing results using a DillonWelder for heat source on small jobs.

Large jobs often need to be heated (say, over a gas ring)while you solder, as the aluminium sinks a lot of heat away.

Rule 1: Lotsa practice on a similar sized piece before going 'real time'

2: Cleanliness is vital - get a few 'toothbrush sized' StainlessBrushes - from the $2 shop etc.- to brush surface of job and surface of molten pool.

3: Estimate a heat source and then triple it.

As you improve, it is even possible to fill corrosion holes in diecast.

The resultant 'weld' is usually MUCH harder than the job - expect some difficulties in dressing up the finished job.

Here is a local source of product and info:
http://www.durafix.com.au/index.php?content=instructions.htm&PHPSESSID=ea...

interesting - where do you get it??

yep, bought some a few years back from a Working With Wood show, don't ask the obvious question, I had a bit of trouble using it and ended up giving it to my son's fatherinlaw, he used it with great success to repair an aluminium boat and watching him do it I soon spoted why I had trouble. When all else fails follow the instructions.

Tried using this product with nil success. Watching the video showed me why. Will have to try it again using the correct techniques. Has great potential if you can get it to work. My only question is how brittle would the welds be?

Watching the video, not very...

Look spretty simple to me....heat up the parent metal so that the aluminium brazing rod melts onto it. I am going to try it on some of my gearbox extensions to fill up weird shaped holes left from shortening them, rather than TIG welding. Watched a bunch of videos on this, looks like the key is in getting the heat into the parent metal. Need to get a nice hot clean flame.

I have used this stuff. It works really well if you get the process right. As the video shows, if you get the process right the welds are very strong. I welded some alloy tubing to alloy plate and then tried to smash the tubing off. I couldn't break the weld, just collapsed the tubing.

But on another project, I obviously didn't do it right and the weld broke. It is also very difficult to weld two different types of alloy together as one might start to bubble (get too hot) while the other is not hot enough to melt the rod. Obviously someone with more experience and skill than myself would be able to do a better job.

I use a standard oxy / acet set and the correct flux and alluminium rod with great sucess.

I got the "Techni 2000" rods off ebay yesterday and got myself a mapp gas torch from Bunnings. Got the gearbox extension nice and hot all over, held in a vice. Then you apply heat right on the specific area you want to braze and just take the flame a little bit away so it stays hot and the rod starts to melt as it touches the parent metal. It flows really well and has brazed in rock hard. As it was cooling I filed it all down and it looks good as gold. I am stoked about this process and it was pretty simple to learn. 10 minute job. Now I can weld up the weird holes in my shortened gearboxes instead of outsourcing the TIG welding. Using exhaust putty to block off one end of the weird hole and then fill it in with braze, then remove the exhaust putty.

Excellent...well done....where is the video of you doing it though ? :-)

hahaha yeah I saw the comments made on youtube where that other guy did his demo. No WAY am I putting myself up for that sort of punishment.

told ya it'd work.

This is a fascinating way for amateur to repair aluminium parts, but be aware, this is a soldering...or some could call it brazing...far from proper fusion of welded materials as TIG welding ...this hammer breaking demonstration shows, how much is the block of aluminium annealed...