Hi I was given this case recently as shown in photo, where the crank bearing sits there is damage can this be machined/fixed or throw it in bin?

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88688 

Thats amazing but how many shops would know about this?

DIY

I can't fix the case I need to know if a machine shop can fix this.

Best off take it to a VW machine shop and let them look at it, in my opinion I wouldn't risk it, that hole retains the locating pin for the main bearing, its a recipe for a spun bearing.

What type of case? early or late twin relief valve? whats the engine code? I'm not a machinist, but happy to look at it and do a few measurements for you. But it doesn't look good.
Dave

Hi Dave, thanks it an AS21 duel relief case engine code is AS21 29 VW 043 101.102 J and engine number is AJ 066170

what are we looking at, the line bore?

recycle it

Yea its where the crank bearing would sit, want to know if it can be fixed by a machine shop

Looks too far gone to even ream out and use a step dowel in.

Any history on the block? like how the hell a US engine ended up in aus?

Has it got a fuel pump mount? AJ engines were fuel injected and didnt have the stock fuel pump mount

As I said it was given to me by a mate, he does 'nt know anything about it all I know is it had what looks like standard bearings in the case.
No fuel pump mount.
Thanks for your help guys I'll take it to a machine shop tommorow see whait they say.
Pity would have been good I think other wise.

I have used this stuff. It works really well if you get the process right. As the video shows, if you get the process right the welds are very strong. I welded some alloy tubing to alloy plate and then tried to smash the tubing off. I couldn't break the weld, just collapsed the tubing.

But on another project, I obviously didn't do it right and the weld broke. It is also very difficult to weld two different types of alloy together as one might start to bubble (get too hot) while the other is not hot enough to melt the rod. Obviously someone with more experience and skill than myself would be able to do a better job.




Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C.












speedster356

A.k.a.: Peter Mcleod
Bishop of Volkswagenism
Plastic not Classic Racing





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posted on 24-2-2011 at 02:57 PM









I use a standard oxy / acet set and the correct flux and alluminium rod with great sucess.




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posted on 24-2-2011 at 02:59 PM












Quote:



Originally posted by ttriebler
Look spretty simple to me....heat up the parent metal so that the aluminium brazing rod melts onto it. I am going to try it on some of my gearbox extensions to fill up weird shaped holes left from shortening them, rather than TIG welding. Watched a bunch of videos on this, looks like the key is in getting the heat into the parent metal. Need to get a nice hot clean flame.




I only have a MAPP gas torch, I would think you would need a oxcy torch to be able to get enough heat into the gearbox housing, but yes, it should work fine for fixing the weird holes !!! :-)




Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C.

I wouldn't use it.

magnesium alloy is very difficult to weld so just chuck it on the fire and you'll get some nice fireworks.

throw some water on it when it burns just make sure you wear a few welding masks

If I get it fixed I'll post pics of the finished job, otherwise I'll throw it on the fire

If theres nothing else wrong with the block I have heard of guys redrilling to put the dowel in the same spot in the other half of the case.

Not ideal but if it keeps an engine going might be worth a shot.

I have just come back from the machine shopt he can fix it for $750.00, I very quiclky ran away and tossed the case in the bin.
Oh well I'll try to get another case.
Thanks for all the help guys.

awww could of turned it into heaps of heat,light, magnesium oxide and aluminum oxide.

Well vlad01 you were in adelaide I would have given it to you