Hi Guys,
I seem to have a fairly strong fuel smell in the car that I can't get rid of. So far I've done;
-Fuel Cap - replace with aftermarket. Useless. Replaced with genuine german one.
-Filler Pipe - visual inspection, seemed ok.
-Large breather hose - replaced
-Small breather hose - replaced
-Small drain hose - replaced
-Fuel Tank - removed, visual inspection. Pumped compressed air in. Seemed ok.
-Tank to pump hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
-Pump to chassis hose - visual inspection and air pressure tested. ok. Added hose clamps
Pump - visual inspection. Seemed ok.
-Chassis to fuel filter hose - haven't removed yet, seems ok on the outside. Note: has no hose clamp on chassis end.
-Fuel filter - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.
-Fuel filter to carby hose - haven't removed yet, visual inspection. Seems ok.

I'm now wondering what the next step is? Is there anything I can look at without going to the extreme of replacing the one in the tunnel. If I do have to replace it (or bypass it), has anyone got any advise for this?

Yeah, I'd be suspecting the one in the tunnel unfortunately.... especially if the smell is strong inside the cabin, but not really detectable outside the car.

Way to check would be to pull off the passenger side mounting plate of the pedal cluster, and if the fuel smell is stronger in there or if there's any mositure, you've found your culprit. The two I've seen had failed up near the pedal cluster end... possibly damaged/bumped whatever during a clutch cable replacement.

Mounting a new one would be tricky, but bypassing with a good hardline should be OK.

Maybe park uphill overnight

Next day take the gearbox coupling cover off under the back seat
Look in the tunnel using a torch and see it you can see any wetness

Stick your nose in there as well - smell should be worse

Mine was leaking where the rubber hose joins the solid one leaving the tunnel

Throw a match in the tunnel, if the car blows up, you fixed the problem

Hi Guys,
Just seeing if there's any further experience or suggestion in how this should be done?

Eg. any tips/tricks with replacing it in the tunnel, what's the best route/method if I'm bypassing the one in the tunnel, what size/material tubing should I use? What's the best way to bend the tubing?

just go to the brake shop and get a roll of steel brake pipe the same size as your pipe, about $20 and just run it under the car.

I dout it that the fuel line is leaking ut if thats the case i just put an 8mm fuel line in my car last week.

Go in through the other frame horn. The tubing is called bundy tube.
Get about 3m of the stuff, and on one end get them to bend you a 90* bend with 6inches after the bend.
Find a grommet that goes over the tube securely and drill two appropriately sized holes. One at the rear in the opposite frame horn in the same place. the other in the pan frame head ( i put mine on the side opposite the brake MC)
Where the rear framer horn hole has been drilled finely cut with an angle grinder two cuts about 4-5inches long from the hole to the rear of the pan (engine ).
The cuts are as wide as the hole and parallel.
Push the newly cut tab down and feed the line in from the rear to the front. There is a little persuasion needed as you go through the framehorn in to the tunnel. Push the tube all the way through the tunnel until it comes out the far end (pan head inspection plate).

Push the

Push the tue all the way in until the 90* end sits comfortable in the newly drilled hole at the rear.
Mark the bundy tube near the opening and measure how much you will need to go back to come out of the hole you drilled in the pan frame head.
Pull the tue back enough so that you can lift it out the hand brake lever hole (will need to remove)
Bend the tue at the appropriately measured distance so that you can go into your new hole and cut it off after the bend. I think you can work with about 100mm abfte the bend. If you have a tube bender great, if not work slowly and support the bends.
All things going to plan you should e ale to push the new line into place att he rear while working it into the hole in the front. If it all sits in place nicelythen wha-llay you're in business.

Weld up the frame horn cuts you made and insert a gromet front and rear and away you go.

I did mione while the pan was disassemb,ed , so it was pretty straight forward.

Seriously though,
i would put it down to a poor seal on the rubber/hose connections under the bonnet. Replace them all first it may sve you a lot of time and effort.

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the great feedback!

The mystery is now solved. It appears it was the main line through the tunnel. I created a bypass from rubber hose that goes under the left side of the body (where the body bolts to the pan).
After a day or so, enough for the fuel in the original line to evaporate, almost no fuel smell at all.

One thing I did notice though... I clogged up my carby a couple of times. The RAA couldn't figure out what was going on and I ended up getting a tow home.
Spent about 4 hours that night stripping down my carby and cleaning it. That worked but it was still running like crap. Took it to the mechanic and he got it running real sweet again.
A couple of days later, same problem. Back to the mechanic, a 10 minute job to pull off the filter, pull the jets out and give them a quick clean and it was off again.
A bit dissapointing considering I just put a brand new filter in, but I guess there must have been some crap in the line.

All sorted now though, I'm a happy man.