Hey All,

I've jsut taken out my clutch and I will be replacing it with a new one; at the moment it has a brazilian F&S clutch disc and the german Sachs Pressue plate.

The car isn't driven on the street and is only used on the track so I was thinking of a Kennedy Stage 1 plate and maybe a RLR Black magic, but this might be too harsh?

I'm not sure exactly what to choose though so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers

Shaun

I'll be keent o see what people have to say. Sander can you please post engine basics. Cheers

You couldn't be more right when you say engine basics!!!

The engine reads STOCK at the moment with some bolt on goodies but it will be rebuilt to go a bit better.

1285cc
Stock Internals - will eventually get upgraded with hotter cam and lightened flywheel and ratio rockers (potentially)
1 3/8 Extractor - soon to be upgraded to a merged 1 3/8
Stock 30 pict - upgrading to single weber DCN
1300 Single port heads - in the process of getting rebuilt and ported for max efficency
C/R - 7.3:1 (stock) will be bumped up after heads come back

not expecting alot of power but alot of Lol's!

the car isn't made for all out power its going under historic rules (ps all those who read my dual port head post I've sinced checked with one official who said if the DP heads weren't on a beetle then I can't use them!!! only if I had a type 3!)

Other change to follow is a rebuilt gearbox with a shorter 4th and possible matched gears(1-3) ratios to the motor.


Cheers

Shaun

seriously considering Aircooled Net's Copperhead clutch anyone with experience?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Copperhead-200mm-Clutch-Disc-p/copperhead.htm 

also read a good thread about it on the samba

I have 177hp Subaru motor in MY beetle and itS just a stage 2 Kennedy and i think its a stock sach clutch plate and I welded about 2cm onto end of the clutch release lever to make the pedal effort lighter check on Jak rizzo post as he does heaps of racing or send him a PM

Stage 1 with a stock disc will be fine IMO for up to around 170 fwhp or more, even racing. My old 2332 (140rwhp) is still going strong with 4 drag events and about 20 000km under it's belt with this setup.

just reviving this old thread,

going to be getting my new clutch whilst i'm waiting for Stan to finsih my engine,

Ordering a Kennedy stage 1 and now going in between different stock clutches, not sure whether to go with a sprung german disc (200mm) or the rigid brazillian ones.
Reading other threads and forums people are saying the sprung is smoother but not reliable, not really sure about which to go with as I will only be racing the car and heading towards tarmac rallies in the future so wanted something that will be kind to the car and throwout bearing

The power of the motor is going up considerably from before but still nothing to write home about so what are people's thoughts?

Cheers

Shaun

get rid of the springs.....i have broken them before with SFA horsepower....they are only to smooth the "in or out" part of the engagement anyhows.

The reason for a spring disc is to compensate for poor driving skills. It helps smooth out the driver’s roughness. For many applications it is fine to use a spring disc. However, be clear that it may not stand up under drag race starts or higher HP engines. It is for this reason that it has only 3 rivets holding it together and can pull apart at that location, whereas the solid one has 8 rivets holding the center in.

get a berg dual friction solid disc and be done with it. i ran one with evertything from stocko 1300 to 2180 with 2500pd pressure plate on the street for years and it never looked like wearing out

where can I get one of those Daimo?

Hi

Your 1300 will have a 180 mm clutch, get Stan to upgrade the flywheel to a 200 mm

I forgot to say, my sons bug the Stage 1 with a cushlock lasted 20,000 and then the diaphragm collapsed

Steve

I've checked the clutch and it was already upgraded to a 12v 200mm at some stage.

What sought of clutch are you using now steve?

Ian is right about lengthening the thow-out lever. It eases the srtain on the cable, and your leg, and also reduces the chance of over-travel of the diaphragm [Steve's son's problem, maybe?]. Adjust the cable so that the clutch JUST dis-engages, to avoid excess travel of the diaphragm. A bit of free-play won't hurt.

Sounds as though things are progressing well, Shaun.

Cheers, Greg

Hi

Were running a another Stage 1 Kennedy with a cushlock disc. I always had the adjustment very loose, about 35-40 mm freeplay. Davids bug already has the longer arm, the clutch is very light actually.

The car does see a bit of traffic use

Steve