The wifes 68 Beetle was running rough so I decided to tune it. Was running OK then I filled it up at the servo with 98. The next day or so it started to back fire while driving. Had another go at tuning it and could not improve it. It was there and then that I decided there and then that was it with my tinkering. I don't like it and it don't like me so off to the mechanic.

He tuned it, replaced the plugs and points, adjusted the tappits, etc and it was running fine. He mentioned that the carby was on its way out so he compensated for that.

Drove it a few days later and it is running rough again. Slight back fire on the start up and then feels like it is straining. 4th gear the car was shuddering a bit.

So besides all the tail of woe, what price should a new carby cost? I saw one on ebay for $318 and he rang a supplier and he quoted $400. Any tips on where I can get one for a good price?

Does the above sound like a carby???

Cheers,

John

http://www.vollks.com.au/ 

did he pull the carb apart as sounds like a blocked jet or water in float bowl ?

No he has not pulled apart the carby. His opinion is that to stuff about with it would cost nearly as much as a new one....

Thanks for the link Donn a heap of good stuff on there but they are out of the carbys at the moment.....

Between the Idle jet and main jet, there are so many problems that can be fixed by taking them out and giving them a blow out and cleaning them.

If you are handy with tools, or know someone who likes to tinker, take your carby around to their place with a six pack, and sit down together, chat, disassemble, clean, fit a minor rebuild kit (gaskets and seals), and take note of how many turns in and out all adjustments were, and put it back together.

Can be quite good fun, and also enlightening.

Have a look here. Have a read and see if it will work for you.

http://www.vw-resource.com/carb_41.html 

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html 

I am a believer in sending a good German made carb off to get rebuilt

I paid about $250 for mine to be done

I got mine done here
http://www.carburettorservice.com.au/ 

JohnL, Before you change the carb., or send it away for a rebuild, check the other (simple) things in the fuel system that could cause lean runnng, or periodic fuel starvation.
eg 1. Blocked fuel filter. (or possibly outlet from tank).
eg 2. Failing fuel pump.
eg 3. Water or dirt in fuel tank/lines.

Back firing sounds like it may be misfiring... spark plug leads or distributor cap...

OR

carburetor flooding....??

Many people these days Prefer to have their GERMAN SOLEX carburetor overhauled that buy a new Non Solex carburetor..

cheers

LEE


dis You try VOLLKS.com?

Lee

Brand NEW 34 PICT- 3 carby NEW $149.95 at Vollks.com.au

check out their website..

LEE

Thanks to all for all of your advice. The situation is the carby has been replaced but the problem still exists (so I have been told). Now let me say that the mechanic was recommended to me so I do not think he is taking me for a ride. He spent his apprenticeship working on VW's so he was very excited when we took it down to him.

I did check out the vollks.com.au site Lee and it is awesome. They have a lot of good stuff. The carby is not in stock and won't be for another 30 days (I emailed them yesterday morning).

So the thing I am thinking is the fuel....

hellbus - thanks for the tip. I do have a mate that loves tinkering with cars but I hate to impose on the guy (any further) as he is busy enough as it is. It is just something I do not seem to have the patience for. Need to leave it to the experts. I had the shits when I could not fix it the other weekend something bad.

Will let you know the final solution.....

If it's not a fuel problem, it might be worth replacing the condensor and coil. Both can appear to be working, but then play up and cause variable rough running. Even if the new parts don't fix the problem, it adds to your spare parts collection...!

When does it backfire? Foot to the floor or cruising steady? My beetle was backfiring whenever i would put my foot down and gave it some, and also in 4th gear. I chased the problem around for a day or two, checking fuel, carb, points leads, etc. Turns out the coil was on the way out and was causing the backfiring. Check your coil or borrow one and replace it to see if that's the problem.

Spoke to the mechanic again today and he fitted a refurbed carby from the dude in Gosford. He says it goes OK for a while and then starts to run rough again after driving it for a short time. He used the old carby and the new one and changed parts around so no joy. I might mention to him about the condenser and coil as I do not think that he has tried that.

As for the backfiring it happened when I was turning the engine over. Not real loud but there. Also when accelerating. Not putting my foot to the floor or anything just trying to drive it normally...

ANYWAYS - the question I have now is since vollks.com.au do not have any carbys in stock, does anyone have a plan B I can initiate?

I would say Coil. I have had problems like this before. Condensor and points is cheap and an easy way to rule them out of the equation.

I would also cheak your leads......are they routed well? Not such a big issue in a full tinware bug but i one had a lead that had melted on my extractors in the baja. just slightly but it was enough that it wouldnt rev nicely.

Your mech would have a coil lying around to try.

check your PM's

Mechanic has informed me that he has replaced the coil and the condenser. He is convinced it is the carby......it has a 34pict on it. He thinks it might be the wrong carby on it. Says there is a slight delay in first and second. WhenIi bought the car the bloke told me it was a 1500 bored out to a 1600. Mechanic is going to try a different sized carby......

What a drama. I am going to be up for $7,000,000 dollars at the end of this....

I have had feeback that the new ones are from China and are crap.

Cheers,

John

Donn, I might need that after all....

Some more ideas...
a. Rotor button? They can go intermittent, if they have a 5kOhm resistor in them (as almost all do). Easy to change.
b. Also the spark plug connectors (brown 1kOhm resistor type) should be swapped for another set, assuming you have the original Cu-leads (or replace the leads entirely if they are the modern sort). (Original black plug connectors should be OK; check the attach to plugs tightly as the little spring-connectors can break.)
c. Is the vac advance working? If the diaphragm has failed, the engine will run with less oomph, and may run lean, & backfire intermittently.

So you're paying a mechanic to just guess whats wrong and change stuff ??

Find a new mechanic

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens So you're paying a mechanic to just guess whats wrong and change stuff ?? Find a new mechanic

Here's a start



http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88966&page=4 




posted on 28-7-2011 at 09:14 PM

334 pict carbs, 2nd hand and fully rebuilt available4 pict carbs Manifolds for 1200 available
manifolds for 1600 available
34 pict carbs, 2nd hand and fully rebuilt available
1600tp motor for sale
tie rods and tie rod ends brand new
no seats
some guards still around
give me a call on
0405 905 980
Cheers




But I doubt it's the carbie
Agree, you need another mechanic !

Your not that far from Newcastle, try Nymeyer at Belmont 49454811
Been a vw mechanic all his life

Thanks for all the help but hopefully it is sorted. I hear ya Craig but seriously I hear all the time about people that are probably as knowlegable as a mechanic having to replace this and that before they get to the heart of the issue.

Ended up costing about $800 and mechanic told me that when the engine was modified, it was not done too well. I do trust the guy although I have only used him a couple of times. The stress of having to pay the money though is far better than the stress if I had to do it.....

Question, in the carby, the butterfly flap (not sure if that is what you call it - the round bit that opens and closes on acceleration) has a hole in it but this was soldered up. Why would that be?

So what was the problem John ?

Well the dude went right over the car and replaced a heap of stuff that looked or was dodgy. I have had the car for about 3 years now and in that time have only replaced the plugs and points as far as the engine goes. How long anthing else was done I do not know. So here is what was changed:

Carby
Inlet Manifold gaskets
Pre Heat Pipe Gaskets
Filed the manifolds flat
Replaced the leads
Replaced the distributor cap
Replaced the rotor
Replaced condensor
Replaced points
Changed the fuel
Replace coil
Fuel filter

The car is going the best it ever has....

Do you an answer on the flap in the carby Don?

Sorry, no idea, but there heaps of blokes here that know more than me as I know sfa. Sounds like you are still in front $ wise if that's all you have spent in 3 years. Glad you have a sweet running car now.

Just checked a few of the carbs I have here, they all have a hole in the accelerator butterfly, about 2mm diam.