Aussieveedubbers - Powered by GaiaBB

unlocking the gland nut ?

vwbugsrule - July 25th, 2011 at 02:38 PM

I got me 36mm socket for the flywheel gland nut, my only problem is what tool/s do i need to to unlock this nut?

barls - July 25th, 2011 at 02:51 PM

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7025
one of these

vwbugsrule - July 25th, 2011 at 04:51 PM

thats not my problem, i have a "piston stop" to stop the flywheel from rotating. But my actual problem is unlocking the grand nut. (i already snapped my ratchet in half)

Joel - July 25th, 2011 at 04:58 PM

Were you using 1/2" drive?

Don't waste your time with 1/2" drive sockets on axle and flywheel nuts, even good quality breaker bars break if they;ve been torqued up right.

3/4" and a pipe over the handle :tu:

vwbugsrule - July 25th, 2011 at 05:00 PM

oh bloody hell, i just ordered/ got a 1/2 inch drive socket custom made.... fml LOL is there any other way ??

Birdman - July 25th, 2011 at 05:35 PM

Torque Meister, you can borrow mine.

eraser - July 25th, 2011 at 08:27 PM

i used an air impact drill, i had to turn the compressor up into the red but after about 3 minutes of it tapping away it finally came undone (this was with a flexplate that is about 240-250ish ft pounds).. god knows how im going to do it back up... i understand the idea of a ratchet with a pole on it but i dont get how to keep the motor from breaking a head.

shokwave2 - July 25th, 2011 at 08:49 PM

I got my mate over who has a air impact gun on his work truck. Took about 5 seconds to get off. Make sure you have a torque wrench to tighten it to the correct torque. I had to remove the flywheel again about 2 weeks later but used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and steel pole over the bar to get it off.

Gracey - July 25th, 2011 at 08:56 PM

I use a piece of steel tube about 1200mm long bolted to the flywheel via the clutch mounting holes.

Then as mentioned above a 36mm 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and then I put a length of pipe over this for leverage.

Joel - July 25th, 2011 at 09:25 PM

Rattle gun?

Axle nut yea, but the flywheel, sorry but that is asking trouble.

ratty 63 - July 25th, 2011 at 09:44 PM

I've used a rattle gun many times to get the flywheel nut on and off - never had a problem

I have also used a decent breaker bar with a pipe over the handle and it worked... but I have seen breaker bars snap and sockets explode from the amount of force required when using this method, so be sure to use good quality tools and be careful.

Joel, why would using a rattle gun to get the flywheel nut off be 'asking for trouble'?

R

Old Rusty_VW - July 25th, 2011 at 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vwbugsrule
I got me 36mm socket for the flywheel gland nut, my only problem is what tool/s do i need to to unlock this nut?

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=78351&page=1#pid728699

Also found this with a search. Related to rear axle nut but same principle as flywheel nut.

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=85569&page=1

Rus

pod - July 26th, 2011 at 12:56 AM

with my semi-auto i used an old bottom belt pulley with a lump of pipe welded to it ,then on the gland nut i have 3/4 drive 36mm socket with a breaker and a length of pipe

vwbugsrule - July 26th, 2011 at 07:38 AM

i might look into getting that breaker bar, i have some solid tubing so hopefully that will get me through.
Thanks for the replies

shokwave2 - July 26th, 2011 at 09:16 AM

I'm pretty sure i got my breaker bar from Bunnings or Blackwoods.

Joel - July 26th, 2011 at 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ratty 63
Joel, why would using a rattle gun to get the flywheel nut off be 'asking for trouble'?

R

You could probably do it 9 times out of 10 and not damage anything but the shock to the crank from a rattle gun that actually has the balls to undo one that is torqued to the right value has a chance of damaging several things - dowel pins, bearings, crank thread, even the seats in the case - butter would be stronger than mag cases.

To me it's not worht the risk of requiring a full engine tear down to repair something for the sake of not bolting a bar to the flywheel and using a controlled force with the breaker bar.

Not many people actually use a torque wrench and take them up to the required torque.
Must admit I've done it enough times now I go by feel but i've pulled down a few engines that the nut wasnt torqued up enough.

A loose flywheel does all sorts of damage.

Sides - July 26th, 2011 at 12:43 PM

Yeah, I'm with Joel... rattle gun is a bad idea.

Length of angle bolted to the fly wheel as Gracey has said to hold the engine still, then a good quality 3/4" 36mm flats drive socket with a breaker bar and extension.

Or better yet a good torque wrench - got myself a giant one couple of years back that goes to 700 Nm / 520 lb-ft... some of the best tool $$$ I've ever spent I reckon

Joel - July 26th, 2011 at 12:47 PM

My trusty bit of angle and 3/4 breaker bar have never failed me on a flywheel or rusted up axle nut yet
Even on some of the rusty old shitters I've pulled out jungle backyards

bnicho - July 26th, 2011 at 03:13 PM

I did the clutch and main seal a couple of weeks ago. To hold the engine from turning over I bought a flywheel lock from Mick's Motors. Coincidentally it fits Mini flywheels too so it will come in useful for my other cars.

I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a Moke bumper over the end (approx 1.3 metres long). That got it undone.

To do it up I borrowed a 3/4" drive torque wrench from a mate.

beetleboyjeff - July 26th, 2011 at 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Joel
My trusty bit of angle and 3/4 breaker bar have never failed me on a flywheel or rusted up axle nut yet

That is pretty well identical to the setup I use, except for the length of gal. pipe I put over the handle of the breaker bar.

Haven't had a problem yet (touch wood).