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1600 end play
chillihilli - August 13th, 2011 at 06:30 PM

Hi there. I am a ways throughout my autostick replacement, and got some good advice to change the main oil seal whilst the engine was out (thanks Lee :;) . As I was prising out the oil seal, I felt a clunk and thought "oh dear" or words to that effect. I discovered I could move the crankshaft with a screw driver at the front if the engine (flex plate side ) with a screw driver, and by hand with the main pulley. It's a good 2 or 3 mm. I'm pretty sure this is well outside the tolerances. The produces reasonable power, blows a little smoke etc

My question is should I look at a rebuild? My original plan was to replace the trans and put it all back together whilst I save up for a new enigne, but am I wasting my team reassembling and just bite the bullet and get it done. Anyone have experience on approx cost for a stock 1600 rebuild?

Thanks in advance!


Menangler - August 13th, 2011 at 07:42 PM

If you felt the clunk when the flex plate was off, that is perfectly normal, you should have no noticeable play when it is all bolted back together.


mactaylor - August 14th, 2011 at 06:57 AM

bout 4 to 6 thou is the number your chasing with the gland nut to spec.


chillihilli - August 14th, 2011 at 08:48 AM

Phew! Thanks for that. I will get the seal done and check it when reassembled.


bevoracing - August 14th, 2011 at 08:56 AM

Need to put the gland nut in there, without the flex plate, then lever the crank up and down and in and out. Make sure the bearing is not moving in the case. If it moves you need a rebuild. Might as well carefully check it while you’re there. You can’t control the end play or keep the oil in it if the bearing is moving.
Good luck. Tony