I have no brake lights and have an interesting scenario. Heres a few observations.

1) when i short circuit the brake light switch (with key turned to 'ON', the brake lights turn on).

2) when i remove the brake light switch, and push it in with a small allen key, the lights turn on. I did cap the master cylinder while trialing this, and made sure no debree was in the switch, and primed the switch with brake fluid to prevent air entering on reinstallation.

3) I have bled the brakes twice and am confident there isn't any air. but could always be wrong, i am a novice.

4) i have operational brakes. Its a dual circuit setup, and one, if not both circuits are stopping the car appropriately. I should jack up the car and make sure both circuits are doing their job. (ie, both front and rear stopping)

Do note, i have beetle disc brake front, type 3 rear drums. The clearance on the rear drum shoes is very close that it is slightly rubbing (need to wind a little back on the adjusters). Could it be that the rear circuit developes up too much pressure that the master cylinder doesn't get to travel enough to put pressure in the front disc circuit in which the brake light switch is mounted to?

I gotta get this ugly sod ready for Warrick... its getting closer oh so quickly lol.

Thanks for reading ,
Chris.

Hi Chris

You may need a new brake switch...
they are not expensive..

My Beetle has two brake switches... one in each circuit..
maybe the type used in the USA with the test button..??

I used bottles of brake fluid when I bled My brakes..
although I had all new hoses and brake cylinders etc..

Many people have problems bleeding beetles...

test Your brakes on gravel or grass as lock them up...
they should leave 4 marks where the wheels locked up...

I don't think type 3 drums on the rear change anything...
many people run them on beetles,,

cheers

LEE

You've tested the brake circuit works electrically, so replace the switch and all will be happy

hmm... i swapped the brake light switch with an old one that worked (from the original master cylinder) and got the same result...

Hence the trip out.
maybe both are faulty, although i can get them to work if i press inside the switches with the small allen key. Maybe not pressure sensative enough?

thanks for the replies

yep get a newy n should be sorted
If not mr rainyface can visit

I agree, it is odd, but if the brake system is'nt bled enough to operate a brake switch, it will be a totally obvious LOW pedal.

thanks Matt. I Think i will give it a third round in bleeding the front then, and see how it goes from there.

Its hard to guage the pedal's height, but its no where near as high as say modern day cars, but doesn't 'bottom out' as such.

I will play around with it and report back

I had a bit of a similar problem - my brake light switch wasn't working, so I swapped it with another old one that I had. It wasn't too bad for a while, but then it started to get hard to light up - I had to really push the brakes very hard to make it work. I eventually replaced it with a new one, and voila, works perfectly.

Try really standing on the brake pedal, but really, just get a new switch and replace it.

Dual circuit all stock with type 3 rears adjusted up and pedal should be firm by mid travel, if it's lower, and quite hard feeling, I'd suggest an air lock in one circuit.

I think i have sourced the problem!!!

My right hand brake caliper has the bleeder valve down the bottom.
Its on the wrong side, and of course, air goes up, fluid goes down, the whole cylinder is probably filled with air that refuses to vent because the bleeder isn't at the top. Will correct soon and rebleed

Always the simple things hey

Quote:

Originally posted by bajachris88 I think i have sourced the problem!!! My right hand brake caliper has the bleeder valve down the bottom. Its on the wrong side, and of course, air goes up, fluid goes down, the whole cylinder is probably filled with air that refuses to vent because the bleeder isn't at the top. Will correct soon and rebleed Always the simple things hey

All cured.

Swapped the calipers and rebled. alot of air came out this time.

my goodness! boy does it feel different, it actually feels like there are brakes there! excellent , never felt this, even since day dot. was always hard to gauge what it is meant to feel like, until u feel it. But i'm sure this feels right lol. The test drive proved excellent :P

Thanks for all the advice guys

so now the brakes work properly, I guess the brake lights are too
good to hear n glad that YOU sorted it out
nice one

thanks mate

yea brake light glows vividly. very happy
yea i'm always up for doing it myself, but it thought it could never hurt to ask for wisdom . Everything on the car has been all done by me so far, (cept ball joints that were pressed in at the suspension shop). Family isn't car buff orientated, its a lonely world over this way, but am ever so greatful i got avd and people like yourselves to help me plod through.

Just fender flaring rubber to fit, number plate light, and rwc whoop!

So about 1 days work, and you will be finished?

yup literally !!

Would be ready tomorrow if the gf hadn't got me booked out to spend the day at hers that is. (sigh)
she should come round and get dirty for a change. Drill the holes in the guards and fit the nuts and bolts to hold the flaring rubber on.

can only try to wein her to the dark side . if not, tues sounds good