Type 3 leaking auto pan gasket
tweety - September 19th, 2011 at 06:32 PM
Bought 2 gaskets recently (cork). did allt he right things like clean both surfaces etc. used red high temp silicone very lightly on each surface.
Didnt over tight bolts.
Got a pool of fluid on the floor while I am doing my Subaru conversion.
Tightened up the bolts a bit. moved the trike a few metres. wiped area clean/dry.
A smaller pool of trans fluid is there now.
any ideas to stop the leak?
grumble - September 19th, 2011 at 07:23 PM
Some of the cork based gaskets have a rubber compound in them and the silicone reacts badly with it,I have seen it a lot on tappet cover gaskets. You
might try dry,permatex No 3 or the genuine sealant.
68AutoBug - September 19th, 2011 at 08:20 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by tweety
Bought 2 gaskets recently (cork). did allt he right things like clean both surfaces etc. used red high temp silicone very lightly on each surface.
Didnt over tight bolts.
Got a pool of fluid on the floor while I am doing my Subaru conversion.
Tightened up the bolts a bit. moved the trike a few metres. wiped area clean/dry.
A smaller pool of trans fluid is there now.
any ideas to stop the leak?
|
Hi
I have found No problems even when using old gaskets If they are cleaned and cleaned and finally with alcohol swabs
so they are clean as...
and no need for red silicone.. the standard silastic is good for even beetle exhausts... works on all exhausts..
I also use Permatex non hardening gasket cement..
check to see if the leak is coming from a bolt...
I always apply sealant around the bolt holes..
Is that ATF leaking?
LEE
mackaymanx - September 19th, 2011 at 08:31 PM
I read on shoptalkforum/thesamba to glue the gasket to the pan, put it on a flat surface with a phonebook or two on top and let it set overnight. Then
seal the pan to the transmission. With the gasket glued to the pan it can't move about.
Also check the pan is not dimpled around the bolt holes, you may need to hammer it flat gently.
68AutoBug - September 19th, 2011 at 09:39 PM
I usually glue the gaskets to the cover... too
silastic - is good with the last mentioned method...
but everything Must be perfectly clean...
for the sealants to work...
Lee
chillihilli - September 19th, 2011 at 10:37 PM
| Quote: |
Originally
posted by tweety
Bought 2 gaskets recently (cork). did allt he right things like clean both surfaces etc. used red high temp silicone very lightly on each surface.
Didnt over tight bolts.
Got a pool of fluid on the floor while I am doing my Subaru conversion.
|
Hi Tweety, I've just done this job on my 71 Bug Autostick. A couple of questions:
- Are we talking about "Auto" or "Autostick" (semi auto)?
- You also mention fluid. Did you use Auto fluid or Gearbox oil?
- Is it come out when the trike is started and/or hot or when it is just sitting there?
- Did you remember to put the four bolt braces on ?
Where my Autostick pan gasket goes is the spot where all the gearbox oil goes. The Auto Transmission Fluid only runs through the torque converter -
not the gears themselves. I just bought gaskets from the USA (only place I could get them). The gaskets were cheap (the shipping was not) but they
were made from grey gasket paper/cardboard stuff, not cork. I only used GP auto grease on mine and it's not leaking at all (although I haven't
started it yet.
I'm not an expert so forgive me if they are dumb questions - but I just replaced an Autostick trans which the previous owner had filled with ATF -
and it was the noisest part on the car. I've filled the replacement with gearbox oil, and I can turn the shaft by hand and it doesn't make a sound.
I just want to make sure you are not about to make the same mistake as my previous owner.
And one more thing - my preferred method for silicon (I didn't use it on the pan gasket this time) is to apply it, tighten the bolts up so it
squashes the silicon out past the edges (I use a hand wheel ratchet for this - you see it just ooze out the seam), then come back 24 hours later to
snug it up. I learnt this from my Kayak sealing days. The idea being the silicon makes the gasket - it cures over the 24 hours - then you compress it
to make a seal. Just my method, that's all.
Cheers Pete.
tweety - September 20th, 2011 at 07:57 AM
Thanks a lot guys.
Its a full type 3 auto not semi.
I've used recommended fluid Dexron Castrol auto trans fluid.
I didnt place silicone around the bolts- good advice.
red oil leaking from front of the pan and wiped from there. definately trans fluid
The phone book weight overnight on the pan and gasket sounds like a good idea.
It seems clear to me I've used the wrong silicone and will try proper sealant.
Will also search for better gaskets.
The trike hasnt been started. the trans oil was replaced 4 weeks ago while the subie conversion took place.
Thanks again. will do a better job next time.
Matt Ryan - September 20th, 2011 at 09:19 AM
Cork gaskets can shrink when they age and dry out. Soak in some water for an hour or two and they swell up a bit. Then just wipe dry, that will be ok
for silicone sealants, With good mating surfaces a smear of grease or vaseline on the gasket should be enough.You're only using that to help keep the
gasket in place while you fit it. If you think the mating surfaces are a bit dodgy then by all means use silicon or preferably permatex as there is
less chance of bits breaking off and clogging oil galleries.
And remember, if it's a small nut use a small spanner (less leverage) don't use a 1/2 inch drive socket and ratchet on a 10mm nut. Maybe a 1/4 inch
drive is more suited. Overtightening warps tin sumps really easily around the holes, so check that the face of the sump is flat before you start.
Regards,
Matt.