What started out as a “simple” transaxle replacement on my 71 1600 twin port Autostick ( http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=92005 ) turned in to a bit of a marathon event.
I thought I’d post up a list of my efforts – primarily so I can remember what I did, issues I had, and to give a more complete picture to those thinking of doing a similar job without any experience.
There are a bunch of jobs which are easier when everything is apart and it makes sense to do it. Keep in mind, my mechanical experience is very limited. This job started on the first weekend in August and was done mostly at night after 8:30 PM and a few hours each weekend.

I also want to say a big thanks to those that have helped me on the forum – it’s made a huge difference. Lee’s coloured parts and pictures have been a constant reference source for me!

- Engine removal/refit
o Remove flexplate
o New main oil seal
o New flexplate o-ring
o Adjusted valves to .006 – replaced several valve adjuster screws/nuts
o Replaced valve cover gaskets and installed scat stainless steel valve covers
o Removed heater boxes and painted
o Removed exhaust and attempted to fit aftermarket stainless steel 1.5” merged system
o Removed aforementioned aftermarket system and refit stock exhaust after having to bend out my rear apron too far to fit it - really need to re-think the exhaust.
o Readjust locking tab on rear deck lid after attempting to fit aforementioned exhaust
o Reamed out manifold preheat tubes
o Replaced fuel lines with braided s/s hose
o Relocated fuel filter to under body
o Replaced engine bay firewall seal
o Unbolt/rebolt engine about 3 times to get the firewall seal right and not snag the throttle cable
o ** Hint ** turn the engine (generator pulley) a bit as you fit the engine – makes it “clunk” in to place a lot smoother
o Replaced engine tray rear apron seal
o Rewired vacuum control valve wire from transmission after it broke
o Rewired coil to carby to autochoke wire after it broke

- Transaxle replacement
o Removed/replaced transaxle with second hand unit
o Cleaned second transaxle unit
o Installed new nose cone gasket
o Installed new selector shaft seal and bushing (had to ream the bushing to allow the selector shaft to move in it)
o Installed new torque converter seal
o Installed new transaxle pan gasket (had to order from USA)
o Painted trans pan cover
o New gearbox oil (Nulon 85W-140)
o Rebuilt and Installed ATF return line hose
o Replaced ATF return line 14mm banjo bolt and copper crush washers (ENZED)
o Installed new transmission mounts
o Installed new final drive oil seals
o Removed drive shafts, greased and Installed new GKN Lobro CV joints * 4
o Installed new CV boot covers * 4
o Installed new 12 spline bolts * 24
o Installed new hose from carb vacuum port to Auto control valve
o New ATF fluid Nulon Dextron III. *Hint* the book states 3.6 Litres of fluid. This figure is exact and overfilling results in ATF all over your nice clean engine bay!

I started it up yesterday afternoon and surprisingly it started firing straight away. It’s still idling a little rough (kind of has a surging cycle) so I’m now going to do points, timing etc. The gears were all selecting very smoothly and it is a lot smoother than the previous autostick trans - doesn’t bang into gear like the old one did.

I will take it out for a road test this afternoon and make sure everything turns over smoothly.

Other jobs still to come in the short term:

- Points, timing, carby and idle adjustment, compression test
- Replace pulleys with nice blingy new scat ones
- New power belt
- Replace fuel gauge sender
- Clean fuel tank, fuel pump
- Replace speedo cable
- Check wiring

On the plus side, I now feel as though I know this car intimately and have a better understanding of how it works.