I've stripped the 12 spline head on a drive shaft bolt. What are my options for getting it out? HELP

Tried ViceGrips?

if you have the rest of the bolts out, cut the head off with a grinder and you will probley be able to undo it with your fingers.If not try the vise grips.

2nd vice grips (original not chinese copies)

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'll give them a shot later in the day. Hopefully I can get tools in there as everything is still in the car so a grinder could be tricky. Might have to try a dremmel.

Meanwhile I am happy to revive any other ideas.

Cheers cam

You would have to have the bolt on the bottom I think
to get a grinder near it... maybe

as You said not a lot of room..
maybe a few grooves would allow vice grips to grab it...

maybe other alternative is to grind them all off...
rotate axle around...

thinking maybe its a good idea to renew them all with allen headed bolts..

LEE

Cut a slot in the head with a dremmel or hacksaw, and use a flat blade screwdriver to get it out. Alternatively weld a hex bolt into the rounded out hole and use a socket, the heat from the weld should help you out also.

Cheers

Steve

My Son bought new ones from the local BOLT shop..

I don't know what they cost..

they cannot be any longer either..

cheers

LEE

Is there a good reason that normal hex headed bolts weren't used? My son is in the process of replacing his cv boots as we speak (type?) and same as you he has had enough of the 12 spline bolts and is replacing with allen headed ones.

You have to make sure there is no build up of crap in the inhex part of the cap screw or else the tool does not fully engage, that is when you strip the head of the cap screw, the twelve point drive on the originals can handle a higher torque the the normal hex type that i think is preferable.

Hi

I don't think hex headed hi tensile bolts will fit there...
I know there isn't much room when using the round headed bolts..

if You could get GRade 8 Hi tensile bolts with small heads
You could probably use them... lol
but I don't think these are available thru normal channels..

[maybe special bolts used on ?? equipment]

Most VW shops will sell these bolts...

Allen keyed heads grade 8 Hi tensile bolts..
8mm x 45 mm long

plus many BOLT shops..

LEE

I have found the multi splined ones need to be perfectly clean otherwise You have a problem...

the allen keyed ones are easier to keep clean I have found..

as they don't have all those crevices to hold dirt..

LEE

Just spray them with degreaser and hit them with a air gun, 12 point drive will then fit correctly, one ounce of prevention is better that a pound of cure.

Sorry I came late to this but here's my 2cents worth:

- I had trouble with one of the 12 spline bolts stripping. After quite a lot of frustration I removed it by lots of WD40, and buying a cheap 6MM allen key and hammering it into the bolt with a HEAVY hammer. Once it was jammed in good and tight, a combination of turning the allen key and turning tight vice grips around the outside solved it. If trying this method, it's best to have the allen key handle slightly ajar from the vice grips so you can use one hand on each tool. I perfected the technique and used it on about 4 of my bolts.. This kills the bolts though and they need replacement. I ended up replacing the lot, and have added giving them a quick spray and clean to my regular service/inspection list.

- I found the 12 spline bolts readily available from most shops - albeit expensive. That said, the ones I got were 1mm too long and when tightened up to full torque would slightly rub on the trans. It destroyed the plastic flange cover thingy at the trans and I now a 1mm groove.. Not to worry.
It would be worth buying a complete set of 24 if you are doing an order from the USA. FYI allen head bolts are for Kombi's, 12 spline for beetle, but they are interchangable. At the end of the day they are just cap screws and readily available from anwyhere. It's the length that is important, you don't want them too long as they will foul behind the wheel/trans flanges.

- Slightly off topic but.... I just did the CV boots as well. If doing this job, take the opportunity to regrease your CVs and do the whole thing properly. If you take apart your CV's, do the research on how to get them back together. Once you know it's a snap, but there's a trick to it (narrow vs wide)
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=92574&page=1#pid861767 
and keep everything in the order and orientation it comes apart. GKN lobro CV boots are great.

Cheers Pete.

You can of course cut/grind the extra length off easily enough...

I prefer the allen headed bolts..

You can get sockets for both so You don't have to use an allen key..

and the allen key can be cut off or replaced when it gets worn..

and when undoing have the car so You can turn the axles around as You undo or do them up..

and when tightening always do the opposite bolt/nut up same as with wheel bolts etc...
slightly increasing the toque each time...

cheers

LEE

I would not recomend grade 8 bolts. Socket head bolts should be 12.9 if you get them from a local bolt shop.

BIG chisel and a BIG hammer. It's more about technique, but a big hammer helps.