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Semi-Auto, need help!!
BugsyMalone - October 18th, 2011 at 08:26 PM

Hi Dubbers,

Does anyone know if a company in AUS can supply or rebuild a semi/full auto that is rebuilt stronger than the original that can handle bigger HP????? I'd prefer to stay auto, but am starting to think that manual is the only option. Any help would be appreciative.:tu:


68AutoBug - October 18th, 2011 at 08:44 PM

i DON'T KNOW OF ANY COMPANY THAT DOES ANYTHING WITH SEMI AUTOS in Australia

You can fit a fully auto from a type 3 but it is a major project as the gearbox doesn't fit between the beetle forks...

It probably depends on the clutch which is 180mm ..
but its either IN or OUT ... no slippage..

depends on what Horsepower You are talking about...

some parts of the semi auto gearbox are the same as a manual gearbox...

but the unique parts are No LOnger available NLA..

You can buy new clutch plates - throwout bearings - clutch servo repair kits and the Torque converter seals and the ATF/engine oil pump seals....

I did see a photo of a Beetle rallying some time ago and it was a semi auto beetle.... I never saw any info on what the engine was etc...

Lee


BugsyMalone - October 18th, 2011 at 09:38 PM

cheers Lee. figured if there was a full auto I would of read about it by now. As for HP, not much more. prob go from the1500 to the 1600. twin carbies, the usual swap. Well thats one question I have answered.


bajachris88 - October 18th, 2011 at 10:17 PM

Gears and bearings are made to standard sizings, thus chances are if you go to any good gearbox rebuilder they might simply have a catalogue from a gear supplier that would list all the many types to select that would just so happen to suit the dimensions of the semi auto. Things like the seals etc would be a challenge.


68AutoBug - October 19th, 2011 at 12:00 AM

the main shaft seal is NLA... as far as I know...

odd shape and long...

many bearings VW used in gearboxes are expensive too...
and made by only a few manufacturers.... maybe OEM..??

a fellow who used to overhaul the gearboxes told Me about 10 years ago that He didn't do them any longer as the seals were no longer available...

LEE

A fellow on another website said He has been waiting for 2 weeks [so far] for bearings for His Suzuki Van which isn't that old but bearings are only available from Suzuki in Japan..


bajachris88 - October 19th, 2011 at 11:41 AM

hmmm.

In regards to bearings if you know the dimensions Lee and the speed ratings etc, ignoring part numbers completely, see if you can find any in this online catalogue for skf. They have millions!!! Might be lucky.

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products 
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products?maincatalogue=1&lang=en&n...

Need a reference speed (rev/min), thickness, inner and outter diameter, depth. Load rating (in kN) is the expected force pushing down on the balls or rollers in the bearing (1 kN = 100Kgs), and the motor doesn't really put its weight on the input shaft, so pick it at your discression.

You will need to know whether they are single or double ball, roller, thrust roller etc bearings (there are pictures etc in the catalogue).

i guess with seals one could machine the seat for it in the casing a little different to take something thats universal etc?? more effort of course.


ian.mezz - October 19th, 2011 at 01:01 PM

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=76445&page=2 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1QEi3zAdJw 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhcCCi3UVpU 

OR MICH MOTORS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8N4-3Xq0MwA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL 


chillihilli - October 20th, 2011 at 06:44 AM

I was trying to get my Autostick rebuilt as my bearings arent great. The pinion bearing Is nigh impossible to find. There are two styles - older and later. The later has a built in retaining ring. I found the later at one supplier in the USA. Also check Long Enterprises in the USA they seem to have a lot if parts. In the end I replaced it for a second hand unit. It works really well but is still noisy. I'm beginning to suspect my torque converter.

Theres a guy up north called VW Engineering who will rebuild it for $700 if you send it to him, but I was not convinced he was using new bearings.
There was also an Autostick for sales on this forum a while ago with a 1916 in it. It would be worth trying to contact the owner and see how it went.

Let's keep in touch as I am planning to rebuild my original trans.

Cheers Pete.


68AutoBug - October 20th, 2011 at 12:09 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
hmmm.

In regards to bearings if you know the dimensions Lee and the speed ratings etc, ignoring part numbers completely, see if you can find any in this online catalogue for skf. They have millions!!! Might be lucky.

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products 
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products?maincatalogue=1&lang=en&n...

Need a reference speed (rev/min), thickness, inner and outter diameter, depth. Load rating (in kN) is the expected force pushing down on the balls or rollers in the bearing (1 kN = 100Kgs), and the motor doesn't really put its weight on the input shaft, so pick it at your discression.

You will need to know whether they are single or double ball, roller, thrust roller etc bearings (there are pictures etc in the catalogue).

i guess with seals one could machine the seat for it in the casing a little different to take something thats universal etc?? more effort of course.


Hi Chris
I know some people just mesure the rear outer wheel bearings in an irs beetle and replace inner and outer with 6206 bearings... in reality its an NU206 roller on the outside and 6206 ball bearing on the inside... measurements the same... [they maybe NU306 this is from an old memory..]
6206 are much cheaper than NU206 ]

about 10 years ago .. I went to buy 2 seals for the dual atf/oil pump without success.. [I had bought them before locally at the bearing shop]
I searched for a long time and came up with the maker of the seals... dichtomatik I sent out emails and received one back from that company in Indonesia [I think] they sold them by the 100 ONLY to companies...??

I then tracked the company to the USA where I found they had warehouses that would sell 20 seals at a time... but only to a company as they were only wholesalers... I then found a fellow in a Honda dealership in Toronto Canada who bought them thru His Workplace and posted them to Me... the seals weren't that expensive.. and the postage wasn't that expensive... BUT
the only way I could pay the fellow in Canada was with Western Union... YIKES/// they really know how to charge...

so that made them expensive... anyway sold all the seals...
and they are now available again from evw in the USA...

I believe most bearings in VW gearboxes are special ..
and expensive..

cheers

LEE


ctefeh - October 21st, 2011 at 11:48 AM

Bugsy,
People have run 1776's and 1835's no problem through an S-A gearbox. The consensus seems to be about 90bhp at the flywheel. A 1600 won't stress it out.

Full Rebuild of the S-A box? The last two have been 12 years go in the USA and a fair while ago in the UK. The UK fella had to go to extreme's with locating parts. In the end he had to use at least one reducing sleeve to fit the correct seal. I would say forget about a "full reco" SA box.

At least 3 pinion bearings were used (followed the manual GB bearing upgrades) but it's all fairly moot anyway. Shifter forks (Dangerous would know) of a certain type are either/about to run out. If you want to go shopping
your wallet will wander around the world locating all the necessary bit 'n' pieces. Or like Crasher did - Improvise, Adapt and Overcome. Hmmm sounds vaguely familiar:lol:



Enjoy
Ctefeh


1303Steve - October 21st, 2011 at 02:35 PM

Hi

A friend of mine used to rally a semi auto beetles, he's a paraplegic. He's run all sort sorts of motor combos (1641-1968) and even ran close ratio gears, puck clutch and locked a diff in a semi auto.

They will take a lot of abuse, oil cooling helps.

Steve


BugsyMalone - October 21st, 2011 at 08:27 PM

those are some cool old school picks. Cheers for all the advice guys. But yeah I hear ya ctefeh, my wallet ain't that thick. Manual it is. It is however the only downside I have found about the beetle. There maybe more but I'm yet to cross those bridges. Its good to have a forum, so I can make the right decision before throughing mone down a dead end road!


chillihilli - October 25th, 2011 at 10:55 AM

If you are going manual, Make sure you sell or give away your Autostick parts so they stay in circulation. Torque converter, flex plate, hoses etc.

Cheers Peter.