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Wheel alignment specs - Help Needed

Gracey - November 2nd, 2011 at 09:23 PM

Hi all,

I've just fitted eccentric camber adjusters to my 76' model Bug (ball joint) and now it needs a wheel alignment.
The car is lowered approx 50mm all round, it's slightly lower at the front.
I've got a set of castor shims I was thinking of adding but I'm not sure if it needs them.
Can anyone tell me what I should have the front wheel alignment set to for all round use and also what should I have the rear set to?

Andrew

Sides - November 2nd, 2011 at 10:57 PM

When Jezzi was my daily driver she was a BJ Swinger.

Back then she was lowered about 50mm front, rear set about 10mm higher, 1 set of shims, 2mm toe in on the front and dead level toe on the rear. Camber came to about 1 deg neg rear at that height, so front was set close but not quite as aggressive... maybe .5 deg neg.

She stuck through corners nicely, nicely controlllable right foot oversteer and still easily get 70,000km from the sort-of-sticky Bridgie 339's I had.

Ahh the memories... with a 1640cc and Kads, at only 19 was sure I was king of the road !!!

hellbugged - November 3rd, 2011 at 05:21 AM

front... 1.5-3 degree neg camber, 5 degree positive castor 20' toe in total

rear.. 1- 2.5 degree neg camber 20' toe in

vwo60 - November 3rd, 2011 at 07:57 AM

you will need to measure the castor before you fit the shims, take them with you to the wheel alignmnet place and fit them there if needed, remember if you go over the factory castor setting the steering will get a lot heavier

Gracey - November 3rd, 2011 at 07:41 PM

Thanks guys I appreciate the replies.

I'm not worried about tyre life as this isn't my daily driver, I'm more interested in going around corners at stupid speeds

So an aggressive setup is more to my liking.

At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).

Does anyone know how much castor as set of castor shims adds?

helbus - November 3rd, 2011 at 07:59 PM

I wouldn't get overly concerned about heavy steering. Compare to a V8 HQ Holden with 225 tyres on the front. Seriously, you wont get a super heavy steering. Go for as much neg camber as the adjusters will go for, and 0.5mm toe in.

Hellbugged is right on with what I would do.

matberry - November 3rd, 2011 at 08:41 PM

I'm with Daimo's setup too

Gracey - November 3rd, 2011 at 08:49 PM

Cool, thanks guys!!

hellbugged - November 3rd, 2011 at 09:17 PM

Wedges.....2.36 degree are approx 5.9mm thick

And 3.6 degree are around 8.6mm thick

Craig Torrens - November 3rd, 2011 at 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gracey
At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).

This is due to the angle your tierods are now at due to it being lowered.........you need to twist your steering box around to level them out.

To do this you will need to notch the holding clamp on the steering box so it can be rotated around the locating pin on the beam.

Aussie Dubbin - November 3rd, 2011 at 10:00 PM

What the hell! (said nicely) what do you mean craig. What are you rotating in a lowered car?

Gracey - November 3rd, 2011 at 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hellbugged
Wedges.....2.36 degree are approx 5.9mm thick

And 3.6 degree are around 8.6mm thick

Thanks Daimo

Gracey - November 3rd, 2011 at 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens

Quote:

Originally posted by Gracey
At the moment the steering is very light and twitchy, especially under brakes, so I'm thinking it needs more castor (along with a wheel alignment).

I've never heard of this before, I'll have to crawl under the car on the weekend and have a look.
Wouldn't doing this cause alignment issues between the steering box and steering column?

helbus - November 3rd, 2011 at 10:35 PM

Raising and lowering a car usually affects tie rod adjustment.