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Need help with new Drum brakes.
izac - November 19th, 2011 at 08:41 PM

Hi all

So I stripped (splines) one of my rear drums on my 65 type 3 and have bought 2 new drums.
They were super tight to get on so I turned the adjusting stars all the way in but was only just able to get them on.

The problem I have is that the rear brakes are now permanently on... I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out :(

What do I do?

Special Air Service - November 19th, 2011 at 08:46 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by izac
I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out :(

What do I do?


Yes I think that some brake places can bond thicker material to the shoes to make up for o'size drums.

But I also think you can get this "extra" material ground off the shoes as well, you'll need to talk to a reputable brake joint to get details though.

Anthiron - November 19th, 2011 at 09:17 PM

Brake shoes are cheap. Why not get some new ones?

are the shoes only rubbing at the top near the slave cylinder? or all around. Did you try pushing the piston arms back in to reset them.

I know the calipers on my Mountain bikes often have this problem with new pads. The pistons need to be gently levered back into the caliper.

izac - November 19th, 2011 at 09:29 PM

i think they're rubbing all around - almost impossible to move by hand on one side, impossible on the other.... Yeah I tried that Nicko, and it helped a bit, buts still rubbning :(

68AutoBug - November 19th, 2011 at 10:27 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by izac
Hi all

So I stripped (splines) one of my rear drums on my 65 type 3 and have bought 2 new drums.
They were super tight to get on so I turned the adjusting stars all the way in but was only just able to get them on.

The problem I have is that the rear brakes are now permanently on... I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out :(

What do I do?


Hi
I believe You will have to get the NEW drums machined...
which would be a waste

or get two old drums... that would have worn slightly... !!
Easy to pick these up anywhere...

it depends on the brake company what thickness the shoes were... maybe thicker than originals... which is good in one way.. lol

The rear axle NUTs have to tightened to the specified tightness or they do come loose and chop out the splines in the hubs...

the alternative is to have the brake shoes slightly machined down...

Having the drums machined is common on old cars... and years ago the drums were machined when new brake shoes were fitted... to smooth the drums out...

but Yours are NEW...

cheers

LEE



disc brake pads etc have nothing to do with drum brakes...
they don't retract like drum brakes...

HappyDaze - November 20th, 2011 at 06:27 AM

Don't machine your new drums, that's a waste of good drum metal.

Take the shoes and drums to your friendly brake place, and get them to 'radius-grind' the linings to suit the new drums. Should only cost a few bucks.

Governor - November 20th, 2011 at 06:32 AM

As above , get the shoes to match the drums not the other way round.

izac - November 20th, 2011 at 11:44 AM

Ok thanks guys, will get the shoes done. Thanks for your help!

Matt Ryan - November 20th, 2011 at 12:47 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by HappyDaze
Don't machine your new drums, that's a waste of good drum metal.

Take the shoes and drums to your friendly brake place, and get them to 'radius-grind' the linings to suit the new drums. Should only cost a few bucks.


After a quick measure, brake place should be able to tell you if they are oversize shoes or not. Be prepared that there may not be enough meat on them for a radius grind. If that's the case get new stock shoes, machining the drums to suit would be crazy.

Regards,

Matt.

matberry - November 20th, 2011 at 01:42 PM

Make sure your handbrake cables haven't been over adjusted and are also holding the shoes on. With the handbrake off, drums removed, balance bar will get free play when cables allthe way off so as not to influence the overall diameter.

Otherwise, I'd just buy a set of std shoes, keep the oversize ones for a car that needs them, maybe yours in 5-10 years.... :)

izac - November 20th, 2011 at 02:44 PM

Thanks guys.... just had an idea, tell me if its crazy though :rolleyes:

Seeing as the front pads normally wear quicker, would it be worth swapping them around to the back, and back ones to front? as I still have old drums on the front....

izac - November 20th, 2011 at 02:44 PM

*shoes

matberry - November 20th, 2011 at 03:32 PM

No, they are different front - rear

izac - November 20th, 2011 at 03:58 PM

ok, there goes that idea :dork:

izac - November 21st, 2011 at 09:17 PM

A big thank you to Mat Berry! You were right about the handbrake cables - loosedn them right off and the turn freely now :) Only thing is, I then proceeded to bleed the system and the pedal is still pretty spongey with a lot of travel :(