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Brake booster rebuild (how to)
vwsteve - December 12th, 2011 at 08:58 AM

I am currently putting all new brakes on my kombi and decided on a new booster as well as the pedal slowly fades at certain times but no fluid leaks, as i was replacing everything i noticed the new booster is not the same and wont bolt up so after my annoyance subsided i decided to have a closer look at my booster and started to unpick the original press joins to have a look inside.


vwsteve - December 12th, 2011 at 09:02 AM

The problem with mine is there was a buildup of rust inside at the seams due to a previous fluid leak i assume, the rubber diaphram look ok so i started cleaning up the rust inside and re etch primed it, the centre piece was actually bare metal never primed so i put a coat on it as well, i will take more pics when back together.

the below tool is what i used to pry it appart after i used a chisel to separate the joins a little


grumble - December 12th, 2011 at 10:20 AM

Your pry tool looks like an old falcon or chrysler hubcap removal tool, i used a couple of these in the workshop for grease cap removal and various other jobs.
If the pedal sinks slowly it is usually a leak past the cups in the master cylinder which will explain no fluid loss,a booster vacuum leak will give a rock hard pedal as there is little or no assistance. Cheers Les


vlad01 - December 12th, 2011 at 10:21 PM

yeah what he said about the rock hard brakes and the sinking pedal being stuffed piston seals in the MC


vwsteve - December 13th, 2011 at 08:58 AM

oh well, at least my booster is rust free and clean inside again:blush:


vwsteve - December 14th, 2011 at 09:34 AM

All back together again, bolted it back up last night

my 2 yr old son was nice enough to lose the pin which joins the booster to the pedal:grind: