I'm looking for some help with getting the beach buggy running a bit better. Its a fairly new 1800cc Air cooled motor. More info here: http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=94393 

I'm not sure if its just the timing or if the carbs need a tune but at low revs it chugs a little bit and as soon as the revs build a little it comes right and pulls like a beast.

What I'm trying to find out is how to do the ignition timing on this engine, and also, what oil/oil filter i need for it as its due for a change. I know its a little vague but any help is appreciated.

I also did a quick search but i couldn't find any thing useful. Cheers

I had a quick look at your other post and my advice would be to go to someone that can dyno tune this engine.
The engine is not standard and depending on the cam and especially the venturi size installed in your carby, let alone the jetting,
to mention just a few of many possibilities, these will all have a huge affect on how this engine runs down low in the rev range.
Basically you need professional help, from a trained technition. It may cost you some dollars, but it will save you a lot of heart ache and time.
Perhaps some other members nearer you can suggest reputable tuner to talk to and advice you further.
Cheers Dave

Ah cheers, i guess i'll get in contact with the bloke who did the work and find out whats been done, then i'll take it to a tuner i guess. Any advice on oils?

Chug, as in hesitation down low?

like a flat spot?

Kurt , as with one of my rides your buggy has a single carburetor mounted some distance from the heads in pipe length for fuel and air to travel .
Now at low revs the air speed is quite slow for the heads to draw the fuel through that great length of pipe and once the engine manages to rev it as you say becomes good as the air speed has picked up and the fuel is being sucked trough as it should .
So for the short answer , it may well be at it's best already as with a single large carby this is quite a common problem or as ragged has said you can spend hundreds on a Dyno tune .
But my first step would be to try and find out what size and type carby , fuel and air correction jet sizes including accelerator sprays , emulsion tubes , and venturie sizes and report back here plus any other knowns about this motor and we'll try and help where we can
Other things to check are as you suggested , the timing which should be around 10* and also the dwell angle which should be as close to 52* as possible

It's the 009 dizzy it'll never run to it's full potential. Can only be tuned effectively for a narrow rev and load range. If you can get enough vacuum signal, vacuum advance dizzy is much better. If you want the most flexible and reliable use modern technology crank triggered computer control. I use Megajolt computer with Ford Mondeo EDIS about $300-$350 to set-up this works perfectly with my blow-through turbo and Weber dmtt carby which had good bottom end but sever detonation or no bottom end and no detonation no matter what dizzy or fuel I used. Lots of people don't like distributerless ignition systems but this comes mainly from unfounded technophobia. Look into it for yourself you'll be surprised how cheap and simple it is.

Just when i though i was starting to get to know engines you blokes have dumbfounded me once again, haha. The bloke who built the engine is about an hour away so next time im up there i will ask as many questions as possible. I'll also find out how much the old girl is willing to throw at it (it's mothers buggy) and see what you blokes recommended doing with it. Cheers.

Looking at the pic's in your other thread, I'd say you have either a single centre mount Weber IDF or a Dellorto DRLA, both function exactly the same way.
Years ago I ran the same setup on an 1835. It was a bitch to tune, much harder than tuning twin carbs.
These days it's much easier because of the availability of wideband fuel analysers. Put a wideband on it and you will know what it needs.
My guess is (if the timings right) the correct idle jets will sort it out or at least get it close.
It's more than likely lean just off idle, however an over rich condition will give similar symptoms, this is where a wideband analyser will be a godsend.

Get it on a dyno...simulated road conditions in a workshop!

Going to see the bloke that built the engine today or tomorrow hopefully. So i'll take a pen and paper and get as much info out of him as possible. Cheers