So my mates and myself lifted the body today...very satisfying... but no it has come time to get the pan off to the soda blasters in order to rustseal it..

However, i am very unsure how to remove the gearbox....

Also is it neccesary to remove the gearbox in order to flip the pan over if you get me, as if i was to flip it over to paint it, it would sit on the old beam ( to be replaced) and where the rear body bolt is....would any harm happen if i did this??

What do i do....

Thanks,

Jeremy

Remove engine, disconnect clutch cable, support box with trolley jack, undo 2 bolts that go into frame horn ends, undo 2 bolts that secure front gearbox mount (these are under the car at front of frame horns), then slide box/trolley jack backwards. This is assuming drive shafts have been removed already.

And it makes life easier if you can remove the beam as well when you are prep'ing the pan.

I have just done this, and if I did it again I'd remove the box and beam to strip and paint the pan.

FYI just finished painting the pan yesterday.

Check out this page http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=93277&page=2 

Definatly remove box and beam it is a simple job. You will see. Then you have full access to your pan and it make the darn thing lighter too!!! Good luck I striped and painted my pan last year have a my build link below

I'm just so nervous about taking the box out ( i dont know why). Engine is removed already and has been for weeks, as is body.... i can easily remove beam etc..

Cam70: is it as simple as support box with trolley jack, undo 2 bolts that go into frame horn ends, undo 2 bolts that secure front gearbox mount (these are under the car at front of frame horns), then slide box/trolley jack backwards.

Is that it??
My drive shafts haven't been disconected, how do i go about that...

You will need to use the correct 12 point double hex drive to remove the socket head cap screws the attach them to the axels and drive flanges, the link shows a sample but these are availble at any good tool shop,

http://www.jbugs.com/product/5796.html 

Make sure that the inside of the cap screws have no crap in them as the tool will slip out if it does not engage fully and you will find them hard to remove, spend the time to clean the inside well and they will be easy to remove. you will also have to disconect the shift rod inside the tunnel, this is under the oval plate under the back seat area.

remove earth strap between transmission and frame horns, wires to starter, reverse light switch wire, clutch cable.

Okay, so it sounds like i should really give this a crack, so i will go get the hex bit today.

How much does the box weigh?

Does anybody have any good links/guides to follow?

I have ordered a new H.D shift coupler......when should i swap these over?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTTjWVCdK9o 

Firstly, to clarify its a swing axle gearbox.

Well, i've started doing this, and im struggling.So far i have removed the clutch cable, undone the brake lines at the drum.

Joel: i have managed to get one bolt undone from where the spring plate meets the axle....they are so difficult to access though.

Other questions i have:

How do i remove the brake lines off the rear bracket? they seem to not want to move. If i have one spanner it just spins the whole assembly (through the bracket) and if i use both (one on each side of bracket) it just wants to spin.

Anyone one in Tasmania: feel free to give me a hand =)

You need a proper brake pipe spanner, Get that instead of the 12 point you dont need.

Btw the box probably weighs about 40 odd kilos. I can pick mine up and move it by hand and i'm no body builder. Helps to remove the starter if you need to move it frequently like I do.

can anyone provide any tips on the brake lines?

Thanks for that, i shall get some proper line spanners today, along with the 36mm socket, i should make some good progress today, is the centre of gravity slightly forward of the tranny or furthur forward?

New brakes will be going on with reassembly, so lines will be bled anyway.

Whens the best time to swap the couplers over?

You've been a great help guys.

you can cut the rubber and steel pipes as you should be replacing then . about $35 for a full set front and rear steel pipes and about $ 20 each for the rubber ones.

Okay, so i already had brake pipe spanners -_- haha, oh well, but i returned the 12 spline, and picked up a 36mm socket, however, the axle nut is on there so bloody tight, and i can't get it off!! This is with the handbrake on, and tyres off......

If i am unable to remove the axle nut, is it possible to remove the handbrake cable any other way?

undo the hand brake cable from the hand brake lever by undoing the 10m nuts and pull the whole cables out.
you will need the tools for when you put it back together.

What are these tools?? i presume its hard to re-feed the handbrake cable back through? how do you do it where its split.


In other news: The axle nuts are off after the use of a 3/4 breaker, 5ft pipe, 1ft scooter handle and a deep 36mm socket. Yiew.

If you got the axle nuts off just pop the drum off and you will see inside where the handbrake cable hooks onto the operating lever.

Well, the gearbox is nearly ready to come off. I just need to undo the couple and the mounting bolts into the horns and at the front and it can come out, i have taken the drums completly off now as well as removing all the brake lines.

Hey mate what corner of Tassie are you in? Im in launceston and can give you a hand.

Hobart I don't know I'd that's to far or you to travel.

Thanks guys, its out and the pan is stripped, off to the soda blasters tomorrow. A good milestone

Which soda blaster are you using?

A bloke from rokeby- Ginseng Dragon- aka Ben Stone, he is picking the pan up tomorrow (seeing as i am unable to transport it since dads away and it wouldn't be to reliable/safe on the eg civic's roofracks.

Why do you ask?