That dreaded feeling whern the clutch cable drops to the floor happened again yesterday...i say again as I changed the clutch cable about 4 months
ago
Put a new one in this morning (I did it about an hour quicker than the first time) the old one had broken flush with the eyelet that gets pegged on
the pedal shaft (like the original). I paid $16 at the local, double what i paid for the first but the guy said people ask for that brand...hard to
believe as it was producto brasileiro. Didnt really have a choice anyway
Anyone do worse than f4 months for a cable? maybe that $8 cable was all it was worth? or have i missed something in installing it?
I made sure i stopped the whole cable from spinning when i was fitting the wingnut at the gearbox btw
I'd preffer try beating my installation time in another 4 years maybe....
Hmm... had the cable broken, or been cut/worn through ???
Reason I ask is that the tube up that end can work loose and cause 'em to go early. Likewise not having it adjusted properly, or if you have
shudder.
My record for changing a clutch cable was from memory just under 45 minutes... it let go as I pulled into the carpark at Macquarie Centre one night,
so I stayed put to fix it while my sis and flatmate went in and did the grocery shopping... all ready to go again just as they came back out !!!
There are a few things that can chew the cable up. Gotta make sure all is adjusted and lubed etc.
I bought a $90 custom made stainless steel cable for our bus 15 years ago, and it is still good.
Very likely you either don't have positive stop on the pedal, or it is not adjusted correctly...at full travel of the clutch pedal the lever / hook /, to which the cable is connected to, rotates to the point, where the cable is being bent at the end of the fitting...if this is the case, cable may break in even shorter period of time...
Buy a German cable. You get what you pay for.
Check to inside of the bowden tube, i have had a worn one of those and the cable broke there, should replace that with the cable, also look at the bend in the bowden tube and make sure that it is not to large, i think is about 20MM.
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I snapped on quickly years ago and reaced it with a heavy duty. No probs ever again
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PS someone once suggested buying a v8 boat clutch cable and just crimp the thread end to the correct length
chances are you might be able to buy a custom cable with teflon or nylon sheeth or maybe a full length complete cable with outer jacket too tan can
fit inside the steel tunnel tube.
haha 16 buks for a cable that long
cheapest cable I ever bough for other cars is $75 for 2 foot long cable They only go up from there!
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You should've kept quiet! I certainly don't envy you, driving with no clutch is no fun or should I say just the pulling away!! I had a cable bodged together from a Hills hoist wire just to get me by but ended up lasting for nine years!!
Yeah it was tricky at a couple of intersections, as I had to stop completely. But driving on the road is ok, get the revs right and you can change
gears easy enough.
I had a spare clutch cable that we always kept in the bus under the back seat as part of our long trip survival kit. Took me about 20 minutes to
change, the room is a bit limited as the bus is lower than original, and I couldnt be bothered jacking it up.
I had a similar problem my bowden tube needed setting and it came good again!!!!
well my $16 clutch cable lasted 2 months
Since its the 2nd time in 6 months ive broken a clutch cable, ive begrudgedly accepted that i wont be putting another off the shelf cable, even if my
bug has to sit on my work carpark for 2 weeks i think its time to do the job properly
Ive asked this mob in the U.S if they make RHD assemblies http://airkewld.com/index.php?product_id=459&page=shop.product_details&am...
which they dont....but i thought about asking if i could just buy (and if it would fit the standard pedal shaft hook) that cable with the heim link
cos the cable is shearing at the pedal end. Also thought id try asking on here if anyone had had a custom heavy duty cable made before? any help much
appreciated
I had a stainless one made, didn't last very long at all but certainly because the cable had no protection at the drivers end, just a loop in the cable to go around the hook, the new one I made myself has a "thimble" at the end and dosn't look like breaking.
Both cable and bowden tube should be replaced together at same time
the bowden tyube can kink and create friction on the clutch cable
Also check that the clutch arm is on the right way around as it hasa indent so the wing nut will locate and swivle through the arm movement
I found my clutch arm was on backwards after 2 cable changes but they did last longer than yours
Good to know. I broke one on the way home today.
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Had mine go in that spot, not so much a shear but strand by strand until there was only a dozen or so left.
Was the clutch cable tube, it had come adrift in the tunnel right at the pedal end, allowing the eye and hook to operate at all sorts of angles.
Regards,
Matt.
Ive snapped 3 cables.Now i dont have the flex tube bending down but have it at 90 degress facing towards left hand wheel.
Its lasted 4000km so far where others snapped at 1000km.Car came already moded with split pin through the hook to hold cable eye from falling off
(6v).cable was wearing on metal tube as it enters bowden tube.Still takes me an hour or more to change but still dont know if it is rectified.
So did you fix the problem or find the answer t owhy its was breaking
WE would all like to know
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Have u changed your profile ???
Clutch cable snapped last night,not having a spare and on the weekend ,I pulled the one from my stock 59 beetle spares car.This cable seemed slightly shorter,The bend in the bowden tube was not as severe.So i shortened the newer one by about 15mm.Im running a 1500 gear box and motor this could be as to why the tube has more bend in it.Clutch pedal now has a smoother feel to it.