Ok. So I ran into a little issue today with Alyce. Went to start her and the engine wouldn't turn over, turns out to be hydraulically locked. The engine has filled up with water in the heavy rain that we had this morning. No biggy, dropped the oil/water and replaced. Pulled the plugs out and turned the engine over to blow the water out of the cylinder.

I also dried and refitted the plugs. But now the poor thing won't start. Turns over fine but only sounds like it's firing on one cylinder every once in a while. I've checked all the plugs by removing them and checking for spark by earthing them against the exhaust with someone turning the engine over. All plugs have spark. The Dissy cap is dry on the inside and I'm running electronic points. The coil is mounted up on the firewall so it's dry too.

Any ideas?


Also, as far as I can tell the water got in through the breather filter here.





The carbies and well covered and were dry so it's not getting in there. The breather is the only other spot.
It's not quite completely covered by the engine scoop.





I've never been terribly happy with the breather system and have been looking to upgrade it for a little while now.
I'm thinking of welding a fitting into each rocker cover at the back here somewhere.





Then running a hose up into the base of the air cleaner. On the RHS I'll fit a T fitting and run a hose to it instead of the little filter.





And then the same on the left into the LHS air cleaner base.

Just a few questions, roughly what size hose should I be running for the breather system. Is 1/2" big enough.
And if I fit something along the lines of what I have described above can I do away with the little duck bill valve on the end of the breather tube? I only see this as a place for contamination to enter the engine mud/sand/dust etc.
Surely with the valve covers breathing this won't be required?
PS engine is a 2054cc

Thanks for looking.


Smiley

Get a filler end piece from a late alternator stand as they dont have the "down tube breather".......yes 1/2 inch should be fine and the system you describe with T peices to the carb fine.

Pretty much replicating the standard breather system.

Just make sure you have no loops/low pints in the drain/breather lines so they can self drain and thus also do their job as breathers.

Have a look in my thread at how we brazed splash plates over the breather holes and added tabs whilst there to stop the gaskets sucking in too

always thinking Smiley, good stuff, luv ya work!

Yes

the breather filter is the problem...

water can go into it...

I just run a 1/2 inch hose down under the engine and the other 1/2 hose to the air cleaner
but My engine is a 1600 single port..

with an engine Your size 1/2 inch may still be OK from each tappet cover..
I can't remember ever seeing any larger hoses..

many run a breather box with the filter on it..

LEE

if it "locked" then the water must be coming in from the carbies to get to the cylinder(s)??
If it came in through the breather it would only be water in oil??
It has happened to be and it was the carbs.
It gets through the filters and under the base of the filter and straight in the cylinder

Good suggestion matt

looks crap - but maybe some blue ice cream containers over the filters??
Gives space for the air to come up

Hope you havent bent a conrod trying to start it

Mig welding Daimo tabs is fine if thouroughly cleaned/desplatered.

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens Hope you havent bent a conrod trying to start it