Hi Guys,

If you were going to stitch weld your forks, would you use gas or a mig.

Which would have the least impact on the paint on the inside of the tubes?

Cheers

Newt

i fully welded mine @ around 21-22volts but only around 7amps with 0.9 wire, using a mig.
( i cut quit a lot out of the insides though and all down hand welds.)
if i had the body on the pan i would have tig welded it though.
you can always put some fish oil / paint down the horn via the gearbox bolts after anyway if your worried about rust forming,

Why are you welding the forks? They need bracing, more so than welding.

i heard somewhere some time ago, under extream power and stress levels they will split the join???
Happy daze is right though, if you dont need to dont. Adding heat there will also make the horns more britle thus brake in long run.
What methods are the to make the horns more ridged?????

stitching adds some extra rigidity but not that much if you pound the forks alot.

You need a 5 bar kafer/torque bar setup. Craig Torrens sells then on here. IMO the 3 bar ain't worth it cos you are just loading up the shock absorber fork. Giving the fork the extra bars makes for a much stronger rear end that you can hammer all day long.

you can make it yourself from thickwall steel tube and 8mm steel plate or buy the crappier ones from CSP or the yank suppliers.

Thanks Guys.

Extra support it will be.

Cheers

Newt

I've always wanted to weld a right angle piece on to the fork to strengthen it
and pretty much box it up from underside of the fork with thicker steel
because I'm barbaric and too cheap tp buy 5 link support.
but even if u do the 5 link u still got to weld a tab on the fork
idk

If you are too cheap to buy a 5 link, MAKE YOUR OWN.......it will be much more effective, and much prettier.

here is what i did
if i have the money i wound buy the lovely 5 bar setup
make sure the rear gearbox mount is in place before welding

so how and where do the forks fail when they do? Any one got a photo of a set that have twisted or bent? (just wondering thats all)

thanks smiley, pics help to see where and how they fail.
might sound dumb but would this work..
Put a 7mm cut full length of the forks on top and 8 odd 20mm slots on bottom
Shape some 6mm plate into the forks and plug the bottom and fully weld the top. Grind back smooth and then add a 3-5 point brace???

It's the engine/transmission lump that needs extra support. If the mounting points are braced correctly [3 or better still 5 bar], then what you are planning will not be necessary. All that will do is add extra weight at the back, which is not good for handling. The money you save on cutting discs and band-aids will just about pay for the bars.

Quote:

Originally posted by HappyDaze It's the engine/transmission lump that needs extra support. If the mounting points are braced correctly [3 or better still 5 bar], then what you are planning will not be necessary. All that will do is add extra weight at the back, which is not good for handling. The money you save on cutting discs and band-aids will just about pay for the bars.