OK guys,

Fanging the buggy & busted my accell cable on Friday. Bodged it back together and then busted my clutch cable on Sunday.

Handbrake cables are at max adjustment and could use refreshing.

So…

Does anyone have a better system that what was done before - hack standard cables in half and then use shark fishing wire trace crimp joiners to take out leangth in the middle of the cable.

Rather than use the crimp an alternative would be to drill a small hole in a bolt and use a nut as a clamp.

There apparently are cable joiners on the market but what do they look like, how do they work & are they any better than the above fix??

Cables - YOu can take em to any boat shop and get them shortened and a new end swagged on if you like.

I must admit after trying several different methods I have found the following to be the cheepest and best:

Accel Cable - Put it in the buggy liek stock beetle and you have about a foot hanging out teh rear. Thread it through the cable keepper on you crb linkage and tinghten it up, then cut it off, simple.

Clutch - Thread it in and then either cut it about 4 " from teh end and then cut 14" out. Use cable dogs to join them togeather. Thsi keeps all the original adjustement availible. Or you can simply spin it in loop.

Handbrakes - when you shorten the pan you cut 8" out of the cable tubes. Then simply cut the cables and use dogs again inside the tunnel.

The HB cables are the biggest PITA. I will shortly be selling shortened HB cable through the manx club as I can get them fro about $40 a pr shortened and ready to go in. These are brand new cables.

If you want more info let me know, I maybe able to send pics when I get home.

BB

id be interested in the seeing the specs of the made up HB cables.

id have to check the measurments of what i've got against what youre making up cause my buggy aint a manx or manx clone - every buggy's prob gunna be a bit different in legnth.

thanks
hs400

Brad I will be interested in the shortened HB cables too....if the quality is good.

I have stock cables cut and clamped where the shift coupling is- every couple of weeks/months the clamps have to be adjusted witch is a b#@ch if a job in that small space. :cry

[Edited on 26-8-2003 by Mad Manx]

Yeah, those handbrake cables sound good Brad.

No probs I will sort it out when I get back. Quality will be fine. At thsi stage I will be bulk buying german cables and getting them done in bulk.

How many dogs are you using on the cables ? I use two and have never had a slip.

Keep you posted should be sorted well before christmas

I am using two clamps on each cable BUT I am a big fan of the good 'ol handbrakie
(who isn't?)

Brad,

I have been using the shortened Stainless Clutch cable with swivel end(stops the wear on the Clutch lever) works fine.
Upon your return will discuss further.

Should have these 4 sale within the week. Only doing the clutch and hand brake cables as accel ones are not worth the hassle.

Cool, let us know on prices
Graham

hand brake csables

OK then after trying several different setups and now being the proud owner of several useles cables I have it sorted.

Cost would be as follows:

Hand Brake cables
Manx Club Members - $35 ea
Non Members - $40 ea

Clutch Cables
Manx Club Members - $25
Non Members - $30

Accel Cables

Still waiting on returns as I was in no rush for them.

All cables are brand new, not second hand. You would need to specify your rear end type as there are 3 different lengths of out depending on setup.

For what its worth. Any good hardware store or ships chandlers will sell 3mm stainless steel bowden cable which makes excellent accelerator cable. Stainless swages are available as well and all you need to do is get the shop to fit one swage on one end with a loop, which will fit on the front linkage, and then simply feed it through and cut to length.
I've set up a few shortened buggies with dual handbrake setups, and all I normally do is sweat the cable out of the adjusting bolt with some soft heat, cut the cables to length and silver solder them back into the adjusting bolt. A good soak in oil while still warm tends to eliminate future corrosion problems.