Hello all,

SO after putting the 1200 back together with re-ground crank, new bearings, new piston rings, reconned heads and new 31PICT-3 I drove the old girl about 20k from storage place to mine and towards the last 3-5k she started to get a bit jerky and not driving smooth on the accelerator at any speed.
When I had parked her up I felt the exhaust and the pea shooter was too hot to touch but she didn't smell particularly hot.
I left her for an hour and then drove her up our steep driveway and she pulled well up there with no jerkiness.

So, overheating or not? I put the jets from the old 28PIC into the new 31PICT so jetting should be fine and the timing was set with a light and was spot on.

I did notice that a brand new oil cooler has a foam seal around it and mine did not when all put back together.

Your thoughts please

Easiest way to test if an vw engine is overheating... When its reached running temperature, see if you can touch the dip stick. If its too hot to handle, your engine is overheating.

not running lean when the choke fully opens?

Hi
The exhausts are always very hot..
if one falls off never go back and oick it up... lol
Chrome holds the heat..
the foam may not make much difference...
I saw a TV show {UK TV] where the so called VW mechanic pulled all the foam off a new doghouse oil cooler before fitting it
it just seals the oil cooler so ALL the air goes thru the oil cooler..
I use a lot of foam on My oil coolers to really seal them but its probably overkill..

When a VW engine gets too hot, You can usually smell it..

when the oil is thick and cold it doesn't go thru the oil cooler until the oil is [hot] and thin, then the oil pressure valve lets it go thru the oil cooler.. Have You checked the oil pressure valve to see if it can move up & down easily..?

Maybe something is getting tight because of heat, not necessarily because the engine is too hot...

cheers

Lee

PS: the old telltale is to pull out the dipstick and see if You can hold it in Your hand.. If You can't , the oil is too HOT.

I'd forgotten that test. Hmm, will have to run her round the neighbourhood unregistered to try that test now. Bummer

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=92996&page=1 

You should also make allowance for the engine having new rings etc with the drag,as the rings bed in things will free up. I am assuming of course that the engine turned freely on assembly and the dowels havent been pinched.

Put the jets back that were originally there.

There's way more to it, but basically a carb is there to mix the right amount of fuel into the air that passes through it. The combustion process is most efficient at 14 parts of air to every 1 part fuel 14:1 air to fuel ratio. (altho we like a richer mixture in our aircoolers)
So as a bigger engine draws more air, the carb should deliver more fuel.

Same page, put in the jets that came with the carb. Don't worry about yours being a 1200

cool. I'll do that. I did wonder as reminded me a bit of my old 1600 1303 with twin ICT's. Would get all jerky going up the motorway but only after 140 miles at 70mph. Dipstick was too hot to handle so upped the mains by 5 points and never happened again

Quote:

Originally posted by psimitar Hello all, SO after putting the 1200 back together with re-ground crank, new bearings, new piston rings, reconned heads and new 31PICT-3 I drove the old girl about 20k from storage place to mine and towards the last 3-5k she started to get a bit jerky and not driving smooth on the accelerator at any speed. When I had parked her up I felt the exhaust and the pea shooter was too hot to touch but she didn't smell particularly hot. I left her for an hour and then drove her up our steep driveway and she pulled well up there with no jerkiness. So, overheating or not? I put the jets from the old 28PIC into the new 31PICT so jetting should be fine and the timing was set with a light and was spot on. Your thoughts please

Quote:

Originally posted by 68AutoBug Quote: Originally posted by psimitar Hello all, SO after putting the 1200 back together with re-ground crank, new bearings, new piston rings, reconned heads and new 31PICT-3 I drove the old girl about 20k from storage place to mine and towards the last 3-5k she started to get a bit jerky and not driving smooth on the accelerator at any speed. When I had parked her up I felt the exhaust and the pea shooter was too hot to touch but she didn't smell particularly hot. I left her for an hour and then drove her up our steep driveway and she pulled well up there with no jerkiness. So, overheating or not? I put the jets from the old 28PIC into the new 31PICT so jetting should be fine and the timing was set with a light and was spot on. Your thoughts please You have mismatched the jets put the original jets back in for that carburetor as You have altered up the air/fuel ratio for that carby. Not sure if that has anything to do with Your car slowing down?? fuel blockage?? loose spark plug lead?? bad condensor..?? LEE

Quote:

Originally posted by 68AutoBug Quote: Originally posted by psimitar Hello all, SO after putting the 1200 back together with re-ground crank, new bearings, new piston rings, reconned heads and new 31PICT-3 I drove the old girl about 20k from storage place to mine and towards the last 3-5k she started to get a bit jerky and not driving smooth on the accelerator at any speed. When I had parked her up I felt the exhaust and the pea shooter was too hot to touch but she didn't smell particularly hot. I left her for an hour and then drove her up our steep driveway and she pulled well up there with no jerkiness. So, overheating or not? I put the jets from the old 28PIC into the new 31PICT so jetting should be fine and the timing was set with a light and was spot on. Your thoughts please You have mismatched the jets put the original jets back in for that carburetor as You have altered up the air/fuel ratio for that carby. Not sure if that has anything to do with Your car slowing down?? fuel blockage?? loose spark plug lead?? bad condensor..?? LEE