i have a 65 bug and want to stop a bit better. with disc brakes up frount do i need to change my master cylinder to a duel master cylinder
Hi
I don't think You need to buy one, but its a good idea.. [corrected error in grammar]
Drum brakes work OK if everything is working OK..
unless You are driving thru a river or creek.. lol
No Beetle in the USA ever came with Disc Brakes...
even in 1976... so they MUST WORK OK..
You can adjust all Your brakes up.. so they will work better..
check for no leaks or swelled hoses etc..
New brake cylinders aren't expensive..
Your brake linings may be worn down...??
or just need adjusting..
cheers
LEE
Yes you need to change the master.
Dual circuit isn't a bad idea either for safety wise too ![]()
yes change the master cycliner o a dual ATE german type
VVDs havea disc conversion set up 02-9789-1777
where are you located
| Quote: |

Hi
But No 4 stud wheeled Beetle ever had disc brakes in the USA
even in 1976..
Only Karmanns had them..
but they all had IRS rear end from 1969> on.. lol
there are a lot of disc brake conversions in the US , even still being converted now..
LEE
PS: Personally, I would fit a new dual master cylinder, as its a good idea to upgrade everything when You are changing to discs.
plus 4 hoses and rear cylinders... LEE
I was thinking of putting discs on the front and just want to know what else I needed.
I'm running five stud wheels
| Quote: |
I have the vintage vws setup and has been on our 64 for three or four years and really happy with it.
have a big hill (moonby ranges) and can pull up real quick ie going 90-100klm down hill and come round a corner and a truck is low gear doing 40klm
| Quote: |
| Quote: |
I will take some pics for you this weekend but as for the specs best to ask vvds. I think off memory they use commodore calipers.
My memory is rubbish though- too many brewskis. It is well made though and i am running a dual circuit master cylinder
Any particular picture you would like?
heres a pic of the VVDS kit
You MUST change the master if fitting discs. It's all about the different systems having different value risidual pressure valves. The single circuit
master when used with discs will actaull keep the disc brakes slightly on ALL the time.
ps, as far as I know, in the US, beetles did not have disc's, only KG's and possibly late Cab's.
| Quote: |
Not a bad looking kit but the cost of changing discs would be
quite large compared to a CSP kit.
In Oz after 68 it was only the 70-75 pov spec 1300 bugs that were drum front.
All Superbugs, 1500s and 76 beetles came with discs.
Was different in the US though, they never got discs in bugs at all, even the late cabs were still drum.
what about this vintage speed disc brake conversion, do you think it would pass engineering, similar to how i made my front set except i used a four
spot caliper.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=795074
""" Not a bad looking kit but the cost of changing discs would be quite large compared to a CSP kit. """
I think you had better price the CSP kit its more expensive than than the VVDS
Also the CSP widens the track the VVDs narrows by 20 mm or so
| Quote: |
the vintage speed kit use non turbo 944 rotors which are very cheap after market.
| Quote: |
| Quote: |
Still need to pass a wide 5 mounting plate with the
engineer and probably get rid of those cheap AC Delco/GM square pad sliding pistons. Never been a fan of them and funnily enough te exact same caliper
that CSP use in their kit which is the main reason I won't pay for the CSP kit and they won't give me details of the hub and disc clearances to see
if suitable for a different caliper plus they don't want to sell the hub and rotor seperately. Fraid I don't waste my hard earned on anything that
isn't what I want
A friend of mine just had approved a set of front wheel adaptor on his kombi, you take the studs out and bolt them on from behind with 12.9 grade socket head cap screws, the plate has the studs pressed in from behind, the engineer said he could see no problems with them , the other issue with the VVDS kitis the unsprung weight, what caliper is it ?, I think you can buy the vintage speed hub by itself.
You must change the master to the dual-circuit kind because:
- Drum brakes have small slave cylinders (the ones at the wheel with the adjusting stars) which only need a small volume of fluid to operate them.
- Disk brakes have big slave cylinders (to push the calipers) which need a larger volume of fluid to operate them.
The older single-circuit master only moves a small volume of fluid (fine for drums) and the newer dual-circuit master moves a larger volume of fluid
(necessary for disks).
Fortunately, changing the master is an easy job. If you need a new hard line or two you can get them made for you cheaply at most good brake
workshops.
Also change the fluid reservoir (hiding behind the spare wheel) to the dual-circuit kind with two halves and two hoses running from the reservoir to
the new dual-circuit master.
| Quote: |
The adaptor has five tapped holes the same PCD as the original kombi stud pattern, inbetween these are five new studs pressed into the adaptor, You remove the wheel studs from the kombi hub, fit the adaptor on the front of the hub, and fit the socket head cap screws from the inside of the hub and torque to spec.
| Quote: |
Are you talking about the vintage speed hubs that are used on there link pin disc brake kit, i have seen these hubs advertised on the samba seperate,
if you look at the design it would be simple to machine a aluminiun adaptor that would fit over the front of the hub and bolt on from behind before
the rotor is attached, the only draw back is the use of the style of caliper that is supplied in the complete kit, but if you want to keep the wide
five i think you will have very little choice. If they will not sell you the hub you could reverse engineer they as they would be simple to make.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=795074
Yea, I had a look on the Samba to see if I could find the wide 5 kit from vintage speed but couldn't track it down.
Like you said tho, reverse engineer a wide 5 design is pretty easy now. Just gotta check caliper clearance inside a 15 inch VW steel as the 944 rears
have a deeper hat but slightly larger diameter compared to the fronts. Still the lower hat profile can still be used just with the hub mounting point
being deeper to allow the caliper to fit below the wide 5 flange.
2 things I have to consider now is if I can only make the hub as one piece instead of the hub and a seperate wheel mounting plate then the wheel
flange on the hub will need to be thicker than the steel if I want to keep the unsprung weight down but the main thing is the amount of wastage
machining the combined wide 5 flange/hub from a single piece of steel or 6061.
Hmmm, fun 