I've put up a couple of posts previously about The Marauder kit car I've been building.
Here is where I'm up to:
You can read more about The Marauder at:
http://www.paulsweb.info/marauder/index.html
That looks stunning! They type 3 makes a great base to build from.
Has the tunnel bee nmodified from factory?
I was also wondering about hte mounts that the rear of the motor hangs from, is this added to take the type 4, or was it something there for the type
3 motor?
Either way, what take the torque of the motor?
Coming along very nicely
Floorpan is factory and not modified.
The frame that holds the motor up has been made to bolt to the standard body mounting holes of the pan. Type 4 motors have a similar but different
moustache bar to a late 1600 Type 3 motor. This uses the standard Type 4 bar (which has rubber mounts to the engine) and bolts solidly to the frame. I
originally tried using the brackets that come with the Type 4 moustache bar, but couldn't get it to work effectively. I'll see how it goes but a
gearbox cradle might be an idea.
It also uses the standard Type 3 gearbox, so the gearbox mounts are standard.
Apart from the frame and moving the fuel tank to the rear on its own frame it's all standard (but new). From an engineering perspective this is
pretty important, as the less mechanicals are modified then the easier to get certified.
Hi Vanders,
Just the front of the tunnel looked a little different, thought it could have been modified.
Is that frame part of the original car? Looks nice, and would be good for a type 3 auto based trike my Dad's looking at doing.
You might need to re-think the type 4 mount a little, Kombi's and 411's that use the motor have a large bar, solid mounted to the gear box to take
engine torque, so the bar at the back your using only supports the motor, it will nto take the torque of the motor (nor will the gear box nose rubber
you have).
The bar on the rear of the motor of a type 3 is solid on the motor, and rubber mount on the ends so it can take to torque reaction. With the rubber at
the motor you will just tare the rubber mounts apart.
As a short term fix I have made solid blocks to replace the stock type 4 motor rubber mounts and retained the type 3 rubbers at the body (just have to
modify the ends of the rubbers slightly).
I could try and find details of what I did if your interested.
The next question is cooling air?
Does the Marauder have a way to get cool air to the type 3 motor (not just recirculate hot air off the motor)?
I will assume it does, do you have a plan to connect this ducting to the type 4 motor?
If you have pictures of the ducting/body work on the marauder I may have suggestions.
Thanks for the images
Much appreciated..
Excellent work..
Lee
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261329529946
Yes, I think you are right. As the kombi style box has bearbox mounts, and the Type 3 one doesn't I'll probably use one of the gearbox cradles you
can get for beetle style boxes and adapt that to give some middle support.
The Maurader on ebay is interesting. A guy near Brisbane called Jason bought it and I sold him a door panel. Not surprised that it has turned up on
ebay again. It would take a fair bit of work, but could be a nice car eventually. For $400 it's probably worth it but it's a major project. Here's
the new link. 1 hour to go:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Marauder-Kit-Car-shell-VW-based-Ferrari-Dino-style...
In this picture is a factory bar for the the very first year 411, the motor/GB mounts like a late type 3. The next year VW modified the mounting like
a T2 kombi.
This bar will not mount to a later model type 4 motor (the first case was 1 year only).
I have a 1.8L kombi motor in currently, so made solid blocks to replace the rubbers (sorry, I can't find the pics quickly). Has been in there for a
while now.
The advantage is you can still use the type 3 rubber mounts, so still have some vibration isolation.
I've manufactured an engine brace system to combat the torque the engine develops. It was pointed out that the standard Type IV engine mounts
wouldn't cope as there is normally a solid mount on a kombi gearbox in the form of a gearbox hanger, and without transmission horns, there wasn't
enough to keep the eengine from twisting. I made a custom gearbox brace that uses the bottom engine/gearbox bolts, a pair of Cat 0 Bareco tractor top
links, and a pair of custom brackets to mount to the existing engine frame. The top links have been bushed to bolt up tightly and it all looks to be
working nicely. Time will tell.
Work progressing:
That has very nice lines.. Can't wait to see it finished
Here's some more pics now it's out of the mould. The gel coat has been rubbed back so she's not so shiny anymore.
Lookiing good!