Hey guys,
I am new to the beetle world, but I have been busy restoring an old 911 for the past couple of years, so that sort of counts. I have just recently
ventured into the world of Beetles and I have picked up a surprisingly rust free '71 Super.
I have a YouTube channel as an outlet for my love of restoring classic cars, and I am really excited to get stuck into this new project. I am only new
to the Beetle world so I am keen for any advice you guys can give me.
Anyway, here is my first video to give you an intro to the car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCpUFBxuRv0
That looks like a great project Jeff (and spelt correctly too). You should also share it on SBO - Super Beetles Only - http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/ A lot of Super owners world wide would be very
interested in this.
Love the presentation of the video by the way
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Great project, can't wait to see more, if you need any advice let me know
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Mrs Jeff finally gets her first drive of the Beetle, but it doesn't exactly go as planned.
https://youtu.be/XiBk2FzNjqk
The cause of the cutting out when hot could be the coil on it's way out, and failing when it heats up. If it was hot and you stopped for a few
minutes, it could be a vapour lock in the fuel line if it is too close to the heads and getting too hot.
The most likely cause of the vague 2nd gear is the bush in the tunnel for the gear shift, or the connection of the gear shaft to the front of the gear
box. They are both quite in-expensive, and the connector is quite easy to fit. The bush is a bit more fiddly, but not too bad.
If you search this site, there is already a lot of answers to these questions, or there are a number of YouTube videos to show you how to do these
things, especially the gear selector shaft bush etc. - look for ones by Joel - he really knows his stuff and explains it very well
I am going to look a bit further into the not starting when hot issue, and see how it goes. I have a few tips fo things to try.
The gear bushes are definitely need to get sorted soon.
This week my priority was to make the Beetle look a whole lot better, by lowering the front end.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lye2XSAtLTQ&feature=youtu.be
This week I thought I would tackle the rust at the base of the A pillar on the Beetle, and of course there was more than I thought.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8P_Q6BxKKc&feature=youtu.be
I love the new CAD anagram - Cardboard Aided Design. lol
Welcome Jeff.
Great to see another Super getting some Love.
Videos are cool. Yes I Subscribed!
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Terry
I think that A pillar rust was caused by a poor fitting plug in the antenna hole.
I used Mk 1 Golf bump stop rubbers when I lowered Supers like that in the past, it gave a little more travel
great video btw
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I thought the best way to tackle my hot starting issues with the Beetle was to start by giving it a full service. So first up it is valves and
timing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGwf0wHXsgE
Hi Jeff
Your learning quickly how to work on these oversize Meccano sets.
You can safely take the dizzy out by undoing the M8 nut that holds the clamp onto the motor, it has an offset drive so you cant get it back in wrong,
you will find it much easier to work on. The bolt or male threaded section is welded to the clamp.
You have your timing marks mixed up as well. TDC is on the outer rim and looks like a grinder mark.
Looks like a thread was stripped in the head previously, get a new plug and leave like that unless you want start tearing the motor down.
Steve
forgot to say that your choke must still be on for the fast idle cam to be sitting where it is. The screw in the arm is used setting the throttle plate so that it doesn't jam when the throttle is released quickly, so it should just touch the fast idle cam
This week I finished off servicing the Bug, which included replacing the fluids, and relocating the fuel filter. I also got around to replacing the
broken quarter window latch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehh7WXIS1g4
Good move to get that fuel filter out of the engine bay. :-)
Cool video series, about time that oil was changed!
Your Vids are good inspiration Jeff. I'm now working my way through the Porsche and 240Z ones as well.
I'm off to see if I can find my workshop again.
Thanks guys, I am glad you are enjoying them.
Another week working on the bug and this time I tackled repairing the dash where some moron bashed in the previous stereo and installed a new one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXs2YY3ZvYY&feature=youtu.be
This week I tackled the rusty drivers door on the Beetle, so we are getting there. Slowly but surely it is all coming together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yERHrLposk
I am back into the Beetle and this week I repair the rust in the battery tray and then tidy up the engine bay.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27g8vK6xueU
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Thanks Darryl. I have clamps on the fuel line from the pump to the carby, but I need to go back and put some more on the line to the fuel pump. It is
very tight, but it doesn't hurt to be over cautious.
This week the plan was to do the brakes, but first I had to replace the dodgy fuel pump that started leaking in last weeks episode.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LyjKhNpTnA
This week my goals were to replace the rear brakes, but first I thought I would fix the dodgy fuel pump issue... Well there was a slight issue with
that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4hWS411SuA
Jeff, to undo the axle nut without the wheel on, get a longish, heavy piece of steel angle (say 1m or more) with a hole in one end, and use one of the
wheel nuts to bolt it to the drum. With the other end of the angle on the ground, let the drum rotate until the angle hits on the centre of the drum.
This will then stop any movement at the nut as you try to undo it.
The other way to do it is with a torque multiplier https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC7Fq4vNwN0 . Have a talk to Vintage Vee Dub Supplies (Boris) - 02 97 891 777 - he may
have them, or have other suggestions.
I will see how I go, I have a couple of options that I am going to try.