Is on, solid, etc... :bounce

I'm waiting 24 hours before I chuck on another oat of primer (these pics were taken at 9:30 after the welding had been completed)

excuse the shoddy quality, camera is crap

sweet!!
keep us posted on your work

Cheers :thumb
Shall do, am doing the door skin as we speak (just ducked in from a sun shower)

looking good keep the pics coming :thumb :thumb

more than I could do... as a welder, I'm a good electrician.... LOL
Keep the pics coming... I now wish I took pics everytime I did something to My beetle... to have a record of what I did.. and remember how hard taking the front end out by Myself was...
cheers
Lee

awesome, :thumb:thumb

Can you take us through it, how much did you cut, where, etc. on both the project and the donor. Does the donor need to be an early fasty too?? or will a late square do??

I’ll need to do this on mine at some stage.

TIA

Thanks lads! It's good to get some outside appreciation and not feel like such a nutter after all

TIA,

Wow, where do I start. lol
Get yourself an orbital sander and go along the side edges, the lip above the boot seal and the front area (not sure how to describe it) that is welded to the bellows, it faces out.
Once you've done this you should have the spot welds pretty much all visible (theres heaps). I then went along and ran my finger ever so lightly over the surfaces and everytime I felt a recess marked it with a black marker pen (just a dot). Then buy yourself the sharpest toughest drill bits you can find (I got 4) of a decent size and start drilling away.
It should come off after all that, aside from a few little tags left where the spot welds have been not circular. I just used a bigger size drill bit on these (since you can weld up the holes later) and then the panel came off A-OK.
I then had a mate cut off a donor rear clip from another early fastback and deliver it too me with plenty of meat still around it. I then repeated the proccess and at long last had two ready to become one.
I also rust killed and red-oxided the inside of the bellows (since this was never done at the factory) before putting the new one on.
Line up perfectly one side and put some tacks to hold it in place. and then make absolutely sure your central outfacing bit (again, can't think of a good enough name for it) is perfectly lined up with it's mate on the car and then tack on your otherside. Then the rest is pretty much welding up your spot weld holes and it should be sweet.
I had to make new lip sections for where the boot seal sits as well. Then drilled some holes for where the spot welds will go. It did'nt come up 100% perfect probably about 98% since the apron turned out to be a little bit bent in some spots. But I could'nt justify the $450 US for an NOS apron and only I can tell in the end anyway

I don't know about late vs early. I think there may be differences in where you grab the boot and I know they have no captive nuts for the number plate and that the bumper holes are different.
I picked up a spare from an early notch. But it's only for the lower half of the apron should I need it in the future, since the top half is totally different.

Hope thats of some help?

Cam

btw, previous update is here: http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=14033&page=#pid9...

you are a nifty little bugger, aren't you Cam... :thumb
Steven

Hi

You can buy special drill bits for removing spot welds, they make life much easier.

1302Steve

LOL! Cheers Steve. It's been a nightmare. TypeIII's are a pain to restore I'll tell you right now. Parts are non existent!!! :o
And Fasty's are'nt worth anything when you goto sell them
Ahh well, we do it for the love of it I guess

Bugger!!! I'll have to remember that for next time. Cheers Steve!