getting ready to assemble my engine, thought some of you would like to follow the process.gonna post some parts pics first and shall be adding text
over the coming week .if anyone wants more detailed or comparison pics i'd be happy to do that too.yes i do like berg stuff but i am not an employee
of their's,(sponsor maybe), nor am i trying to advertise gene berg,(i highly reccomend their service and products though) it just their products i am
using. here goes...
nos as21 (1991) bored for 90.5 by bergs (smoothest finish i've seen) will be tapping for full flow oil, welding extended oil pick up, spot facing for
15mm wrench size head stud nuts and washers. will post pics of these processes soon
pictured is head stud kit ----- fuel pump block off------t3 block off, to be tapped for temp sender------
case assembly/conversion kit-----c.b cool tin-----dip stick temp sender-----pressure relief kit---- washingto anti shocker (attaches behind clutch arm
to slow closing during drag style starts reducing stress to components its like a small shockie and very adjustable sorry nos no longer available, so
ner!--- main bearings-----and adapter for pressure sender & oil light:duh
heres the 8 dowel 69mm berg crank,visit their web site for the processes that go into producing one of these---- berg selected 90.5 pots (1991
models)balanced & hand honed---total seal second ring set, converted from the original rings that came with the P & B set------ balanced, mag fluxed &
shot peened rods & bearing set----wrist pin keepers vs wire clips----nos brass timing gear----new factory dowel pins for bearings (missed previous
pic)
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
ahh clutches; green one is 2500 kep -cable breaking , tube bending, leg working muthaf. (used) note bars to aid rigidity---new 1700 pound berg
selected match balanced to berg lightened flywheel----old flywheel at back----L to R-- abused dual friction rigid disc by bergs so good had to get
another (middle) ordered from bergs this time last week!!!----(right) is standard face springless german made.-----washington anti shocker---- steel
gland nut and oversize washer, have cro mol long one to use currently on car tho. some of these spares will be up for sale at projects end.
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
sometimes you just end up with more than you need (selling spares later)why three cams? turbo grind eagle, berg 300 (no ratio rockers) berg309/
V26engle (for ratio rockers) at this point i should state that most of this stuff was bought as a 1776 kit, a turbo kit was also purchased, had spares
from deceased 2180, and also bought some more stuff just because i wanted to do things other than what came with the kit. gears (top to bottom) magnum
straight cut alloy on steel (still attached to remainder of 310 cam)--- berg/magnum steel on steel straight cut with bolts and three sets of washers
for adjustable timing----berg nos helical gear----eagle adjustable timing helical gear and washers---also pictured timing gear kit (oil
slinger,spacer, timing gear,woodruff keys, new dizzy drive shaft, spring and shims, brass dizzy drive) ----spare brass gear and timing washers, so
when i sell spares it will be complete cam gear set up---new pressure plate bolts make guest appearence cos they missed flywheel pics, isnt it sad
when you loose the plot so bad that you by these justified by telling yourself they will fill a hole in the box your importing.
while i'm on the subject i have obviously been getting a bit from os and found it cheap and easy, last week $130au = $100us didn't cop any import
duties either, watch out for freight tho:duh
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
o.k new cro mol pushrods , one end not assembled---used ones---lifters top to bottom, black standards---berg/mahle modified, small cut between oil
rings to aid constant pressure and machined under head for case lifter bore clearence---berg selected standard mahle---dual thrust copper faced cam
bearings---c.b race pushrod tubes & seals, tappered end for pushrod clearence with ratio rockers
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
heads; berg installed seats 40mm & 37.5, new guides installed, BUT, the ports have not been matched to new seats,guide bosses will need cutting down
for inner dual spring, may also semi hemi, intend on posting pics of these tricks later.
pictured L-R----array of cylinder spacers/shims for compresion to be set---nos manley stainless valves---dual springs set--hardened keepers, gapped
not to touch--cro mol retainers---1.4 ratio rockers
---lash caps--spring shim kit, that'll be fun!--spare guides---solid rocker shaft kit
--swivel feet adjusters and rocker geometry shim kit---heavy duty rocker studs:kiss
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
oiling;big sump over 6000rpm-- lil one for under 6k---oil thermostats, needed cb one to run braided lines (fittings)--oberg cleanable filter with
tattle tale that tells when cleaning is necessary---26mm tapped and plugged pumps one has o'ring at cam end, so its the one for me---pressure relief
cover for cold starting---sump pickup tube & magnet---mounting kit---teflon hoses, read recently that gene ran a set of these lines for over 20
years,hence the "lifetime" tag
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
6 1/4 pound equilizer pulley, these are machined from steel bar--oil pump seal nuts and copper coated exhaust nut sets missed their fashion
shoot--super strength longer pulley bolt with large & small beville washers, tourque to 100 pounds! but check your crank quality first.
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
induction; dual 48mm dellortos with berg ball type fuel inlet valves installed (used) these reach full flow with minimum float travel, manifolds will
need match porting---holley fuel pump---mallory pressure regulator---spare cages for uni filters---K&N air cleaners, with tops tapped for breather
box--that oh so smooth berg linkage cured a miriad of problems when it replaced hex bar on previous motor:thumb
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
forced induction!, so thats why the idiots got three cams.
---IHI RHB5 turbo----intercooler----malpassi boost sensitive pressure reg---modulator rings, like velocity stacks but smaller only 31-36mm, used to
change air pressure at top of blo- thru carb under boost, thus float bowl and main gas jets to enrichen mixtures as boost comes on:jesus---rebuild
kits,two sets with rubberish gaskets again for life under pressure--just above the dellorto sticker are throttle shaft sealing o'rings to stop
fuel/boost escape again---turbo emulsion tubes, again boost, these allow running larger jets by leaning bottom and midrange passages--- 2.9mm ball
type needle and seats(berg)---quality gaskets---not going with turbo yet more parts and research needed
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
no, no, must resist!
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
ignition; top--electronic ignition control module--jacobs omni pac computer coil, this thing uses the earthed out coil(at bottom) as a signal and
automatically adjust spark accordingly, no i dont get it either but it has provided years off service on a 2180, two 1300s and a 1640 and contiues to
blow rotor buttons apart so there is certainly serious sparks happening---fuse box bottom left:kiss
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
1640; showing breater box--electronic 009---berg "acheiver" pulley, yep another spare part--36hp dog house fan shroud--senders set up----another dip
stick temp thing that earths out factory oil light when both cold and hot, yep berg--polished alternator:duh
[ Edited on 26-11-05 by dumone ]
this is where we should end up. hope a few people take an interest in the process and offer advise/ encouragement along the way.will be posting
regularly as i get going, hope the administrators don't mind (u2u if so) . not sure who will be doing what at this stage, there is a wealth of talent
in this area, from stan the man to retired hellbug proprieters, others too and its always nice to do a bit yourself!
cheers everyone thanx for sharing this with me, i really needed to tell some people who should enjoy
[Edited on 3/5/2005 by dumone]
porn!
Lookin forward to the build up
Looks like enough to build a couple of engines?
the home for the all BERG 1776cc....
super tourer......
race day.......
a slideshow about "bugsmoney"s other mods....
http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/dumone/?action=view¤t=1166511229...
[ Edited on 19-12-06 by dumone ]
1st dibs on any left-over parts
:P
What are the specs on the turbo cam and how efficient is that turbo, how much boost, when does it come on?
Thanks
T54
Quote: |
Someone needs to attend Gene Berg Anonymous, That is one serious addiction to berg products. All for good reason too, the quality is unrivaled.
Wayne.
Most of that went over my head. I just finished a top end rebuild, all standard stuff. I look forward to regular updates, and plan to learn as much as
possible.
Brett
Are you really using carbs with a turbo?
Why?
Pete, carbs and turbo-machining the throttle shaft area is the only mod that could send them to the useless pile. the other stuff can be changed back.
if life was perfect, injection would be the go. the whole turbo thing is a serious commitment, i know. i'd still go for twin blow thru either way. so
hats and exhaust, inlet pipes,etc will be first on the list,whilst i think it over.motor will be run with out turbo initially.
cheers damien
Quote: |
Pete, $$$ i mean.getting to the end of the budget for now.working on some one who is removing a pair of throttle bodies, another freind has suitable
injectors, so it might head off in that direction yet.got an estimate on how much its worth to go to injection? or who to contact?
thanks damien
as I understand it, the expensive bit is actually the dyno time. A good computer is only $1500. CBB now have a dyno, and they've done efi VWs before,
so might be worth talking to them. Another one is wayne penrose. His dragcar build up is in the Darg racing section at the mo. He could tell you a few
things.
But what it boils down to is this. Carbs are always gonna be limited and less precise than EFI. With carbs you might get 200hp at 6000revs, but not
much anywhere else in the reve range. With EFI you'll get as close to perfect tune as pos across the ENTIRE rev range, even with a very lumpy cam. It
also helps you tune better to avoid detonation, and that will really save you bucks.
the missus says your a bad influence Pete.$1700us for C.B performance setup, sounds reasonable?
tar damien
[Edited on 7/5/2005 by dumone]
Any more details on the cb kit?
+++Edit+++
sorry found it:
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=281
I assume this is what you meant?
Or this?
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=286
I was just being lazy again
[Edited on 8/5/2005 by ruckus]
[Edited on 8/5/2005 by ruckus]
nah, use an Aussie ECU. Better product and user support. Also, keeps aussie bucks in aussies companies.