Well, its name is thump-a-peller (thats what the old owner called it, i have no idea why) but its a 1963 model which had a resto ages ago, the mechanicals are virtually new, the interior is the best part and its been lowered at the front. It also has wider wheels and a custom dash... it looks cool doesn't it? Custom number plates are on the way, not telling what they are until i post pics with them on :P .

My dad has just bought it, and i'll be buying it off him when i sell my corolla. Can't wait till i get to start driving it around.












[ Edited on 22-9-2006 by urban_myth ]

Interesting colour scheme, love the interior too! :thumb

Lol, i think the paint looks cool, even if a bit ratty. The previous owner had some surface rust issues, and just sanded it back, put primer on and used cans of flat black paint to go over it. I love the interior, the guages look awesome at night. All i need now is some seatbelts in the back and to get it registered so i can start cruisin around with my mates. Its gonna be awesome when its done.

cool rat rod

DAMN!... thats a noice lookin ride!!!

eats a crappy Corolla for breakfast any day!

nice score

Yeah, i got it for a very decent price. It has no rust, is fairly straight, floorpan has been totally restored, tires are virtually new, engine has been rebuilt, cant imagine what those guages would have cost if bought new, the interior is in really good condition. The guy gave me receipts totalling around the same amount i paid for the car as well.

Well, things arent as rosy about this car as we first thought, but what can u expect from a 43 year old car...

Firstly, the engine has a knocking sound that seems to be coming from the bottom end. Not good. Under light load it seams fine, but when you are accelerating above 2000 rpm then it sounds quite bad. I think it has something to do with the oil pressure, when the car is warm the oil pressure guage is reading barely anything at idle, and when the rpms are higher the oil pressure is half of what it is when it is cold and the rpms are up. I did an oil change and put some 25w-60 in it as opposed to the 20w-50 that was in it before and it made it quieter but not much. Should I be running a thicker oil?

Does anybody want to donate (or sell for a very good price) a good spare type 1 engine to the cause? lol

Also the gearbox is slightly knackered, it crunches during the 3-2 change, and the 4-3 change is starting to do it as well, must treat it with due respect...

Still a fun car to drive, its nice punting it into a corner without having to worry about it ploughing into understeer...

Another rat out there, gotta be a good thing.
Good luck with it all.

Just an update...

Currently building up a new chassis for it. Its another 1963 chassis, but it was converted to balljoint front end and IRS by hellbug. Its got no rust, and is already painted. We scored it for $700. My dad has just finished off the 3 inch narrowed and adjustable front end as well as the 2 inch dropped spindles. They are cut and welded items, but with the welds ground down to be smooth and a decent coat of POR15 you wouldnt be able to tell. We are running VS commodore rotors and callipers on the front so when he welded them together he rotated the actual spindle section so that there was room for the giant (for a beetle) calliper. We are getting some custom hubs machined up so that the rotor will bolt up to the spindle. Pretty soon we will have the adjustable spring plates for the rear made up so we can actually start putting the chassis together. The commodore rear disc brake conversion has already been made up as well.

We also acquired a single sideplate box to get built up for the beast. Not sure of what ratios are going into it yet, but I want to keep the revs down on the freeway. Its got the 4.125 diff in it though, rather than the more desirable 3.875. Its in getting rebuilt at the moment to be stronger than stock to handle the engine conversion that its getting later. I want to keep the engine plans a secret though, but it definitely wont be a subaru or rotary.

he he i know but mums the word ,should be a ball tearer

Before smoothing the welds and painting with POR15





Painted and with adaptor blocks attatched





The narrowed beam



[ Edited on 30-6-2006 by urban_myth ]

Dave Becker (Menangler) is selling a 1600TP at the moment. Man your old man is good with his hands by the sounds of it. After that work he did on the kombi, this will be a doddle to him.

Quote:

Originally posted by pod he he i know but mums the word ,should be a ball tearer

#! Message No Longer Available !#

no legal issues with welded spindles?

nick

My dad has lost count of the amount of sets that he has made. He has had a few of them x-rayed and the person testing them wouldnt believe that they were welded and said they had to be cast. The engineer we use says he can tell the difference between a good weld and a weld thats gonna break.

so are they legal and would your engineer pass them with papers.

I was bored so I decided it was time for an update. A fair bit of work has happened since though. We bought an older style bugpack transaxle brace kit, which we have utilised to create a system to completely eliminate any possility of the gearbox moving on its mounts either by rocking left to right or bucking up and down, as well as strengthening up the framehorns so they dont flex under hard launches. We are still finalising the hubs for the commodore rotors and I will post more photos of the brakes once they are at a more complete stage.


The top part of the rear transmission brace


The bottom part of the rear transmission brace


The bellhousing mount


Part of the framehorn brace, there are two bars left to be fabricated coming off tabs welded to either side of the bellhousing mount reaching to the shock towers


The slave cylinder we will be using for the hydraulic clutch


The rear axle and gearbox flanges modified to accept bay window kombi CV's.


Our next step is turning the floorpan upside down to run the fuel lines, water lines, hydraulic line for the clutch, vaccum line for the brake booster (a VH40 booster is planned in the future), air conditioning lines and anything else we might think of doing while the pan is upside down. All of these will be inside a removable shield, to provide easy access to if ever something needs to be changed/repaired.

very very nice. can I recommend you do get it certified. takes a load off ya mind. that way if you do have an accident you are covered and can't be sued.

Your dad should know a few engineers?

wow
your old mans a gun welder
very impressive

deon

Everything will be getting engineered, its certainly not worth the risk of getting sued in an accident or whatever.

I cant wait to drive this thing, its gonna be so much better than the knackered king and link pin/swingaxle floorpan I have under it now.

My dads mind is a machine when it comes to things like this. Every afternoon he comes up with a new idea of something he could do. Its funny though, he has never ever had any formal mechanical or welding training in his life. All his skill comes from loads of practise and experience. He likes to over-engineer things, I look at everything he makes and think to myself "how could that ever break?"

looking good,

my 70 bugs tranny is braced exactly the same and has the chassis horns reinforced with box section as well
good solid method only con is the ground clearance it takes up
on my bug tho the radiator support hangs down just as low at the front with a lowered beam not good on speed bumps LOL
it was all beefed up to handle an efi 13B rotary on track and street


-Joel

what happened to the rotor in it then DUB74L?

Urban Myth, your dad did some great work for CBB. What's he do for a living now?

He's a delivery driver for a local plumbing supplies place, he's just doing this for a bit of a hobby at the moment. Theres plenty of projects we have at home keeping him busy.

Just a small update showing the completed rear bracing. Nice and stiff.

Left


Right


[ Edited on 30-8-2006 by urban_myth ]

Things are moving a bit more now, we've sussed out the pedal assembly and are getting the original one re-bushed so it wont be sloppy any more. The kombi brake master cylinder is now bolted in place, along with the master cylinder for the clutch with custom flanges welded in. We just have to wait to get the rest of the pedal assembly back from the machinist so we can finish setting it up. We have all the hubs and brake components back from the machinist now as well, so we can start setting everything up over the next two weeks. After that all it is is running all the fluid lines through (still deciding how to do it) and then the pan is off to the sandblaster to get taken back to bare metal. Cant wait!

The trapdoor where the pedal assembly enters the tunnel. We still want to be able to fit a clutch cable through if the hydraulic system doesnt work in the end.




The master cylinders




[ Edited on 11-9-2006 by urban_myth ]