Hey All,

I've decided that i'll rebuild my own engine to get a bit more poke out of it for the track. It will remain a 1300 single port but will have a lumpier cam and some serious headwork. I hope it takes me only a couple of months to do over the evenings and weekends but we'll see!

Below is some pictures of the initial strip down, i've only gone this far at the moment as I don't yet have a suitable engine stand to work with so have just taken the heads off and am not too happy with the way some of them look, especially the cylinder 1 & 2 side which has some funny dents in the combustion chamber.

Not sure of the health of the motor now after the strip down but it would pull a good 115kph in third so do the math with 165R15 tyres and a stock third gear.

Enjoy, any comments appreciated as i'm delving into this head first with only the bently manuals and idiots guide to help!

Cheers

Shaun



Engine as run at the 2011 Supersprint at wakefield



Side 3 & 4



side 3 & 4 head



side 3 & 4 head



side 1 & 2 head



Side 1 & 2 head - juicy... both heads were



side 1 & 2 head



side 1 & 2



rockers



the rods from 3 & 4 are the dirty ones



pushrod tubes



BLACK oil drained - was filled up in Sept last year and has only been driven for 3 full days at wakefield on this tank

clutch disc - will be replace with new one



Compensating spring and bilstein shock



Going to play with some longer bolts on the rod ends of the bar to try and get a little more camber and more load on the spring



Box, it was leaking after the last couple of run from between the box and engine at wakefield which is why I wanted to take the engine out. The clutch was also making noises when turning the car off

I've got an engine stand that you can borrow, if you want. Also an old Swiss Army knife [could be handy when things get beyond you]. Just kidding - about the knife, that is.

VW engines are so light that you don't need an engine stand. I've disassembled them perfectly comfortably on a workbench.

You won't really know what's going on with your heads until you've cleaned the carbon off. I use a wire brush on a Dremel tool.

Great way to go Shaun. I hope you enjoy the experience.

Once you get the engine back together, you'll know it intimately, which can only be a good thing.

Looking forward to watching this build.

I'm particularly interested to see the headwork and how it is all done.


Smiley

Yeah should be a good build, it might take a little while but I hope to have it together by Sept at the latest (great last words...)

The heads i'm going to send out of house as I want a good job done on them, the rest of the engine though I will do.

Just in the process of cleaning (argh!!) what a mess, but when done should be good. Dremel tool sounds like a good idea, I just tried to get some off and it did not want to come!

Greg I'll definitely take you up on the engine stand! I'll come down on the weekend to pick it up?

Cheers

Shaun

Those dents in the #1 & 2 head... is it just me, or do they line up with the cleaner looking parts on the edge of the pistons for #1 and 2 ???

Hi Dave,

I think your right they do line up with the pistons... I wonder if that been a recent problem?

Hmm.... the inside of combustion chambers and top of pistons looks oily that side too.

I'm just guessing here, but could it just be something got sucked in through your cleaner mesh and then munched up ???

If that was the case it hasn't happened in my ownership speaking off oil Dave plug 2 was uber fouled with oil and carbon at Wakefield in may

Just about finished a top end rebuild on my 1500 it all looks exactly the same condition as yours. I had the same indent and at closer inspection I believe it was only chunks of carbon.
Good luck with the build, don't stress it's easy just double check everything and if you are going to replace your adjusting screws with swivel feet be prepared for some extra work, not hard but sucks up a lot of time.

Shaun, you can pick up the engine stand when you like - just call first. I was thinking about putting a time limit on the loan...........so that you don't take 'forever' to build your engine!

ha ha great thinking there greg!

Hi All,

I have a couple of questions in regards to 1300 parts.

1. Piston Rings - can I order and use 40hp piston rings for my 77mm pistons?

2. Piston and Cylinder Sets - can I use 40hp sets for a 1300?

2. Valves - Found new exhasut valves ok but can I use the intake valves off a fuel injected 1600 that are also 33mm? - found some US suppliers have them

3. Engine Case Studs - I have a later model Pict manifold which bolts to the case, where can I get a longer stud to replace the short one I have at the moment?

Finding it more difficult to find the parts for a 1300, as most suppliers seem to jump from 36hp, 40hp to 1500-1600, and skip out what can be used on a 1300!!

Cheers

Shaun

by the looks of the combustion chambers it's been pinging..........(ingition to advanced)

OK 67 1300 engine

Get some one to flycut the heads , open them up to suit the 1600 pistons and barrels.
Set the compression to whatever you think is safe for the fuel octane that u will be using.
Run a very mild cam and lighten the flywheel.
85.5mm piston and barrels are cheap.
no need to open the case they will fit if it is a 67 F series case

Shaun, I have brand new 1300 pistons with rings if you're interested.........just let me know via PM

Hey everyone,

been a bit slow on the motor! I've got the block down to where I can now split the case but...

As is often the case I've decided on getting the case bored out (1916) and buy some new heads....

I had a quote for $850 to rebuild my single ports which is hard to justify when street eliminators are available for $1100 and out flow a 044 and can be used with all the stock running gear.

Anyone know which S/E are better Bugpack or CB? Considering the bugpack at the moment as I can get them with 40x35 valves.

I'll get the motor built to a longblock by Stan and then use my 34 pict and extractor until I save for some dual carbs and bigger pipes.

btw this wasn't my idea; my mrs is sick of me being overtaken at the track and said she couldn't justify the money for the gain in power/speed

I didn't think that unported street eliminators flowed very well and they don't have the cooling of 044's.

I'd pick a CNC ported 044 like the mini wedge or something similar, but that's just my opinion.

the cnc street elims flow in the 190's i was told by cb's staff & they have good airspeed....but over $1300, no manifolds either....and darren krewnchuck "kroc" said the new castings are wicked.....

what about the cnc's los banditos or whatever thay are called....

So what are the plans aside from heads and bigger cc's?

Crank cam etc

Craig uses street eliminators from memory on both his good motors

I looked at the prices according to CB @ $892, VWpart.net did have them for $1250 or so though so i'd have to check with CB.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=79 

My reasoning behind getting the street eliminators is having a head that is capable of coping with more performance in the future, I've read a few forums (including this one) about the street eliminators and it appears that the cooling issue is spin made up by competitors to CB and the like.

But I'd love to hear from people who have used them as I'd prefer the S/E over a 044 or 041 especially if I can get them for the price shown on CB's website! (don't forget the exchange rate at the moment)

Cheers

Shaun

Hi Daimo,

plans for the crank are C/W VW crank, with VW rods & lightened flywheel

going with twin plug ignition straight up to avoid the hassle of machining later, so as far as the cam goes i'm not entirely sure as having the plugs I think changes how hot you can go... but it would be matched to VW rockers

initially as said I'd be sticking with the mod'd 34 pict and 1 3/8 header I have and then i'd probably save for some IDA's on short manifolds (looking at CSP) and a bigger zorst from maybe vintage speed

I've given up trying to stick to a cams rule book for historics as it jsut doesn't matter as alot of them cheat like buggery (seen and been told) so there isn't much point building to the rules if no-one else is. So i'm just building a motor that i've always wanted and will run it where and when I can; as i've done with the stock motor!

Sounds like an awesome plan!

Except the standard carb bit

only until I get the IDAs!!!

the carb isn't standard either I got it off a 1600 vee so it's got a bigger jet and no hinderance to the flow from a choke etc... but yeah the engine will run out of puff by about 5k or sooner until it can breath better

Having twin plugs will allow you to go as hot as you like with the cam, however an FK89 and a 34 pict may be bit of a biach.

the street elims can handle more heat.....this is what i have been told.....if greg ward can drive from sydney to grafton,race, then drive home with high comp etc...then go figure.....im getting a set of custom street elims from kroc in canada as we speek...........

I have the Street Elim 2000's on my ragtop......temps run fine.

My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.