Hi all,

I have recently purchased my first air cooled VW, which now sits alongside my less stylish but somewhat more frugal 2006 Polo TDi.

Armed only with basic knowledge, the experience of previously owning an '88 LHD camper which threw a clutch and then finally a head around Europe after 6 months, and a torch, I inspected and purchased an original condition blue unloved but registered L Bug for spare change. Then drove it home across Sydney.

It is to be a learning project for myself and also qualifies as a 'push present' for the missus who has always wanted one and just brought our third child into the world.

I imagine a world of pain awaits, but a new passenger floor pan is the first step, along with a professional service from a real mechanic who can tell me what needs doing.

Relocating the fuel filter seems to be a popular early job, any advice on what else I should look into greatly appreciated. An annoying 'feature' is a tendency to stall when slowing down to a stop, which is very concerning at intersections. Thoughts?

Which online part stores are recommended?

Thanks for your time and the great forums, Tim.

Sounds like it needs a good service
The stalling could be several things, vac leaks, choke, or just a carb setting to name a few things.
Biggest culprit of L bugs is the front set up.
A new set of front bushings should be looked at.

What year is your L - early 3 bolt strut (73 - 74) 2 bolt (74) or late 2 bolt rack and pinion steering (75)

Where abouts are you?

Thanks - planning a service this coming week with a local shop who appear to know these cars. Muir book in the mail too for future reference.

It's a 75 according to chassis number (76 on rego papers) but the struts appear to have 3 bolts I thought. Will check again in the morning.

I'm in Razorback, just past Camden. Cheers.

Hi

Congratulations on purchasing the best model bug.

The closet good VW place is Klaak Motors in Fairfield or a mobile guy called Mountain Mechanics.

I have a friend in Razorback who's VW nut as well.

Steve

Welcome Tim quite a number of VW enthusiasts live out the south west including myself.

Some good online stores I recommend are vintage Vw they ALS have a store and workshop at Kingsgrove and Vollks.com.au

Can u post some pics would be great to see your new purchase

Was that by chance the harbour blue 75 on Gumtree that had the fibreglass scoop on the rear air vents and SA plates?

That looked like a good base for a resto

You got the best model if you got a 75 with rack and pinion

Finally got the bug back yesterday, floor pan re-welded, and stalling fixed (new coil).

Various other repairs including front lower ball joints, fuel pump replaced, fuel filter relocated, plus a whole pile of little things I'm sure you can all imagine.

I had decided I wanted it roadworthy to drive home, knowing I could improve it from there, so most importantly the blue bug now has a blue slip. This should make it much easier to get one again when I take it back to the same guy at some point in the future ready to actually register it.

Time to clear out the shed and have a good think about what steps to take next. I'm not sure if it will need body off, so probably going to spend some time investigating before deciding. Perhaps fully strip the interior and look around potential dodgy areas.

Gutting interior, peeling back the 39 years of previous ownership. Somewhat surprised that I haven't found any major rust yet. Could be under the very next bolt...

Have cleaned off the engine somewhat so can see what leaks are current. Seems to be a bit of fuel leaking from the "smog vacuum control device" on the RHS of the H30/31 PICT. Rebuild or replace?

Also leaking oil from somewhere near transmission, need to clean that all well to work out where. Happy to pull the motor and make it all like new one day, but would rather this be a bit futher down the ownership path.

Stripped more interior. Still no rust... (except for surface of course)

It came from SA - well known as good or bad for rust anyone?

Maybe I'm just paranoid?

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens Quote: Originally posted by 1303Steve Hi Congratulations on purchasing the best model bug. YAWN......

Dont worry about Craig, hes likes to heckle like Statler and Waldorf from the Muppets

another westerner.. maybe we should start our own contingent

Finally found some rust, in the obligatory behind-dash position. Although from pictures I've seen online I'm getting off pretty lightly.

Next steps: remove fresh air box, remove fuel tank, acquire welder, re-teach self to weld.

I did say this was a project.

Home welding suggestions? Cheap but straightforward please

Hi

I got rid of the vent in the front scuttle panel, water will never get in there again.

Steve

I agree - fill in the vents. Especially if daily driver. It isn't so much the water but the dust and leaves etc that fill up the air box and form a layer of silt that corrodes away
When you take the air box cover off you will see the drain point is not the lowest point.

I use to leave the air box cover off so as the fan just draws air in from the boot for the demister

OK I'm hoping someone can give me an interesting history lesson. The chassis number under the back seat is 135214xxxx, which I understand means 1975 model year, but the plate next to the spare wheel with the body number has 136031yyyy, meaning a 1976 model year.
I assume this means the chassis dates somewhere from mid 1974 to 1975 and the body somewhere from mid 1975 to mid 1976?
Does this also mean that they were originally from different cars, or perhaps just towards the end of the run VW AU started to mix and match what they had left?
I believe there is supposed to be a third plate, but mine is missing most likely lost during a respray.

Someone else had a car like this in this old SBO thread .

It's definitely not a "1976 Beetle" though (based on non-Super) - it's a got the fat ugly face, struts, discs, etc.

The VIN under the rear seat on the chassis is the important one

There are 2 other tags.

The one that is (usually) on the front apron near the hood latch.
That is a compliance plate. That is the one I was talking about in the link you posted above.

The one near the wheel well is a body tag or something.
I have never worried about those.

PS
Give me your R&P ugly bug any day over a 1976 standard
Make no sense at all

PM Joel - he will tall you the facts