Surface rust treatment and metal prep shopping list.


I have been reading and watching a lot about surface rust treatment and metal prep, having never done anything like this before, and reading about how quickly treatment of bare metal needs to be done.

I wanted to make sure I have got everything before I start. So got myself a list to check off, if you can think of anything I have missed can you please let me know, I don't want to get it all striped and half done to find out I'm missing something or missed a step.

Also where would I get the chemicals needed as I can't seem to just find them at super auto LOL I have looked online for body work supplies but most look like wholesale only.
(please note this is being done at home, so only info on chemicals I would be allowed to use here)

Striping list

Paint stripper
Strip it disk / grinder
Scraper
Glad wrap
150 & 80 grit sandpaper

Metal prep list

Epoxy primer and data sheet for it (msds)
Catalyst for primer
Primer surfacer
Polyester primer
Spray gun / compressor
Gun cups and strainers
Masking off tape and paper
Plastic sheets to cover work area

Surface rust treatment list

3M rust dissolver / de-iodine / rust mort (one of these type)
Wax and grease remover
3M primer filler
Scotch brite Red sanding pad
240 - 400 & 600 - 800 wet dry sandpaper

Safety stuff list
Gloves
Body coverall suit
Mask with P2 disks
Lots of rags
Safety glasses
Hearing protection

Thanks for taking the time to read and help me.
Any extra info would be great on brands or where to shop in Perth.
Looking forward to seeing some bare metal soon.

Hey tan36,its quite a list you have there...I'm no pro at all but just having finished a back to bare metal race car but I think you could probably skip a few things ...and save some dish,I won't rant on what to do but bare clean metal I cleaned it twice with wax and grease romover then used etch primer then primer surfacer/high fill then guide coat and sand ...
As far as treating rust the best way is to get rid of it totally..I'm not totally sure if you can treat it then not garentee it won't come back??I think it will..but let the pros tell ..

Oh what are you doing,restore or patch fix etc????


Oh and get on noh2o and vw club wa forums,some dude's will know there stuff and its closer to home...

As far as products...I got some stuff from a paint supply store in balcatta and super crap....I was paying $90 litre for acrylic at the balcatta store then found out too late about a better store at Malaga,nicer service and only $60 per litre....

Fabo....

You should be able to get all the things on your list from most any auto paint supply house and at. Better price s than supercheap.

looks like you are on the rright track.

It's a super List Fabo, LOL I do have some of the things on there already, so looks worse that it needs to be, but I just wanted to check I have it all covered.
I was on Noh2o but it is very quiet there so forgot about it might copy and paste there as well to get more local info as well thanks.

Quite a list. * I will put stars with my comments


Paint stripper
Strip it disk / grinder. * 3M do a purple Strip It disc that you can fit to your grinder. They work really well. The 3M ones are dearer but last longer.
Scraper
Glad wrap * get a 120m roll of masking plastic instead. $35 and you will use it for the whole job. You can use it on the floor when paint stripping, on the walls and floor when painting epoxy, to flick used paint strpped gunk onto etc.
150 & 80 grit sandpaper

Metal prep list

Epoxy primer and data sheet for it (msds) * My prefrerred product is Epotec Barrier 408 Epoxy. PPG Ameron do a similar coating. It sticks to everything, so using the plastic roll to mask the garage will be a good idea.
Catalyst for primer
Primer surfacer
Polyester primer. * Polyester is body filler and fibreglass resin family. At the end of the day it is basically spray bog. It has it's uses, and on flat straight sharp edged panels it works well on top of filler, however you may not find it necessary.
Spray gun / compressor
Gun cups and strainers
Masking off tape and paper. * refer to the 120m roll of plastic. I would suggest getting a masking paper roll machine also.
Plastic sheets to cover work area. * again the plastic roll.

Surface rust treatment list

3M rust dissolver / de-iodine / rust mort (one of these type). * De-Oxit, De-Oxidine, any metal surface treatment Phosphorous acid.
Wax and grease remover
3M primer filler
Scotch brite Red sanding pad
240 - 400 & 600 - 800 wet dry sandpaper

Safety stuff list
Gloves. * get a box of 100 black Nitrile gloves. Will be great for keeping your hands smooth for your partner.
Body coverall suit
Mask with P2 disks
Lots of rags
Safety glasses
Hearing protection

Wow, impressive list! My kit for bare metal resprays is considerably simpler. Main weapon is 115mm grinder with sanding backing pad with 125mm discs rangeing from 36 - 80 grit. Dual action sander with velcro 80 - 120 grit dics. Variable sized wire wheels for pokey areas. Would not touch paint stripper absolutely hate the stuff, if I have a complex area I cant grind then I get it sand blasted (inside edges of front doors,sliding door and front bumper blasted and primed for $150 ! well worth it). Dont bother trying to run air sanders without a 15+cfm compressor with big tank. Current budget project is using 4lt single pack etch primer, 4lt kit of 2 pack hi-fill and 2 x 4lt debeer 2 pack solid colour (2 seperate colours for top and bottom) total paint bill around $1000. Your safety kit is highly recommended except gloves which I have never bothered with in 30 years of painting. Have had good mirror finish results with work-quip 3 in one spray gun set up with 1.4,1.8 and 2.5 tips for everything from clearcoat to hi build primer for around $120. A 20lt drum of gunwash is recommended for multiple times you will need to clean gun thoroughly. A speedfile is your best friend on broad surfaces and patience during the labourius task of sanding will pay dividends. My D.I.Y. 2 cents worth anyway.

Definitley get a 20lt drum of gunwash for cleaning up. Ask your paint shop if they have an empty 20lt drum you can use to put the paint wash slops into. Your paint shop can organise to get rid of it for you also.

Thanks guys have added and change list as you guys have mentioned.

Was looking at the Epotec stuff, will the epoxy colour make much differance, I thought it get rubbed back again, but haven't looked that far ahead yet.

The Epotec Green seems to go on smoother than the black. It may be because the eyes of the tradesman laying it down work a bit differently. It has to be Primed before paiting anyway, so colour does not matter, only if you get a stonechip maybe? You would touch the chip anyway.

The best rust killer converter I've used is called Fertan. You can get it on eBay. I did.

Please be careful for novice users with safety gear particularly respirators. In my life outside the real world of VW's I assess (amongst other things) chemicals and their PPE requirements.

If people are referring to P2 masks which are the white paper masks for safety against fumes they are not right!

A P2 mask is a specific grade of mask used to protect from breathing in particulate matter like dusts etc. It still allows a small percentage of small dust to penetrate but things like sanding it is ok. P1 is the lowest grade and P3 better.

Masks used for gas (half face, full face) will have specific coloured bands used for particular gas types like some isocyanates etc or solvents like MEK or acetone. Some may also be rated against particulates and will be the best you can use.

Check it out here

http://solutions.3m.com.au/wps/portal/3M/en_AU/PPE_SafetySolutions_APAC/Safet...

I really hate seeing shows like Better Homes and Gardens showing presenters using P2 " gas masks" when they provide no protection other than against dusts when they are painting.

I agree with the P2. We only use them for dust at work. All fumes are protected by triple filter cannister units for fumes, including isocynates and lead