I have done the repairs to the Beetle and will be respraying it over the next couple of weeks. Kind of like a 45 day resto. What's that? There are a lot of cars getting around that look really good, the owners do them in 45 days straight. Not show cars, but still very good.

I am will quickly explain how I am going to go about if so some of those who are going to prepare or do their own respray can understand more.

It is technically not a resto, as that would really mean bare metal in my opinion, but more of a neat clean 10 metre car. What's that? It will look great from 10 metres, but no show car. This is a budget job.

First of all I stripped the parts off the car. A beetle is not that hard to dissasemble and put back together, so at least go all the way here. I am only doing the outside, so only all the parts and glass and fenders etc. This is where a good vehiclewhich has no rust in the pan or channels is an advantage. I wrote down a list of rubbers and clips etc needed for assy as I went along.

As this is a budget I am not replacing any door rubbers or scrapers as I got them all out without any damage, and the inner door rubbers are good. But I do recommend new outer window rubbers as they are not that expensive for a set of four, and they will protect your little investment.

The major panel repairs were done over two days and puttied up using a two pack primer filler. Common practice in panel shops these days is rolling - yes that's right roll priming with a small 6" foam roller.

Then the whole body and all panels will be sanded and blocked back with 320 grit paper. This will be to sand back the puttied sections and also the chalky original paint taking off the top layer so the primer will key properly to it. Any small chips or imperfections found at this stage can be picked up with some fine-fill filler (two part hand putty).

Now everything is spray primed with a thinner mix of the same two pack primer filler. A guide coat will need to be applied being a haze of any darker paint or charcoal dust can be used.

This is then all rubbed back with 800 wet if you want to be messy, or dry if you want to be a bit neater, but spend more money on paper. If you are painting in Acrylic or a solid two pack colour 600 grit will be fine, but for metallics 800 is preferable.

Finally when all the body and parts are primed, rubbed, cleaned with prepwash and inpected. Let's paint. That will have to wait until the next episode of this series.

Good advice Pete!

Any pics?

Andrew

The timing of this topic couldn't be better. No1 Son (apprentice spray painter with a major Truck repairer) is going to attack mine soon. Now when he tells me what he's going to do I can at least follow what he says.
Bring on Episode 2 !

" A guide coat will need to be applied being a haze of any darker paint or charcoal dust can be used. "

What is a guide coat used for?

Is this to highlight any hi or low points when you rub it back in the next step?

How much and where do you use it?
I am guessing your a panel beater/spray painter.
thanx Todd :jesus

There will be pics coming soon that will answer more of your questions. :bounce

great post.
I am up to the stage where I have painted on the 2 pac epoxy primer( like high build) and am using 320 on a sander to get the primer flat, will then be using 800 by hand and then should be ready for paint.

Cheers Dave

Speaking from experience, dont mix products ie: use a etch primer from one company and primer/ filler from another, especially if you are new to the game- as they are not all compatable and may kick the paint off. Imagine having been through a bare metal stage to primer and almost ready for the top coat only to have the primer react with the etch prime... hmmm wasn't pleasant sanding away $100 worth of primer, not to mention the time and sanding discs... stick with a painting system... oh and another little tip, make sure to heat the panels before spraying (assuming you dont live in Mt Isa), leave in the sun will suffice to warm the metal... but was still a rewarding experience..

yes great advice and great timing too, i will be attempting this in the coming weeks/month...

I have uploaded pics of series II in this series on painting our Beetle.

after you have use 320 on the sander,then rub with 800 wet,make sure you always use a block when you rub anything on a car,fingers make good tracks in the primer,you see them when you buff,even top coat cutting with 1500,or ultra 2000,depends if 2k or acylic,use a colour block,you will get a nice flat finish,.....

Just posting final pics now

:bounce

I've topped the thread and closed it. Peter, you can undo these things if you want to add anything more to them.

ps. Excellent job, dude!

Andrew