This is what it looked like at the start.
A common garden variety 1970 standard 1300 with 4 wheel drums, a few dents and almost no rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is it after 1 day of repairing two dents in the roof, the LH door, the LHR fender, front panel and the front quarter panels, (not the fenders,
the panels they bolt on to).
These repairs were done the weekend previous to this one.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The roll on primer/ putty method used by panel shops these days. Less mess, no masking, no waste, no cleanup, but not for large panels like roofs.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is the charcoal dust applicator used so that dry rubbing is more effective, and again no spraying is done in the workshop to apply a guide
coat.
A haze of any dark colour sprayed on top of the putty will give the same result.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
As this is to be a very quick respray and time is of the essence, the rear 3 windows were cut out. New rubbers are not very expensive and these ones
were on Viagra and hard anyway.
I prefer to cut from the outside rather than risk slipping and cutting the interior or the hoodlining where it wraps around the panel. We are keeping
the original headlining.
Cut along the edge of the glass with the blade only protruding 8mm or so.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
A light whip around the inside will make sure the glass is not stuck to the rubber. I am not cutting here, just releiving the glass.
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Then the glass will just push out with ease.
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The remainder of the rubber will just pull of with no danger to the headlining or interior.
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The front screen is much harder in this instance as I had just gotten a new German rubber 12 months ago. I didn't particularly feel like buying
another one, so I took it out complete with the front screen.
The screen was new also 12 months ago, so I was sweating while doing this. Front screens are very fragile as the replacement ones are not made from
toughened glass.
First of all I ran a blunt screwdriver around the outside edge of the rubber on the outside to relieve the rubber and break the sealant.
Then I started from one corner on the inside and applied a constant pressure to the glass. This pressure was not enough to push the glass out on it's
own, this is not what you want you will break it if you just push Gung Ho.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
You need enough pressure so that when you peel the rubber edges with your fingers the rubber edge will hold where it is and keep working along.
You can see here the rubber coming away from the inside as I was working my way along.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is after 4 hours of dissassembly.
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I love how easy these cars are to pull apart.
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Bunch of panels waiting to be sanded.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
Here you can see the two dustless sanding methods used.
The rubbing block has holes in it and a hose at the back attached to a vacuum unit. See how the block is being held so that the longest side is
parrallel to the main straight lines of the panel.
The block is being held this way, but being moved in a diagonal motion in the direction I am holding my fingers.
The orbital sander you see is a fantastic unit. Called a Dynabrade, it is worth about $500 it is out of the reach of the home handyman, but they are
hardy tools and last years being used every day in a panel shop.
You may be able to buy a less expensive brand, but buyer beware, dont buy a $40 random orbital and expect it to last to the end of your respray, or
deliver top results for that matter.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is one panel with the primer/ filler rubbed and also the rest of the panel.
Any other small imperfections can be picked up at this stage.
This panel is ready for priming. I am priming with the same product used for filling. It is mixed with reducer to thin it down. Being the same brand
and same product even gives it more stability.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
I left all the small repairs to do while primer on other panels was baking. This way my time was being utilised more, and I couldn't fit the car and
the panels in the oven at the same time anyway.
This is one of the guards after priming and rubbing. I was priming, rubbing, repairing all at once.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
Someone had painted the inside of the beetle black sometime earlier in it's life. This made things easier and although I could paint the inside the
colour the outside is going to be (secret at this stage), I opted to go for the budget satin black.
A lot of older vehicles had this, and especially in the engine bay and boot.
This is easy to apply yourself, and would save you a lot of money if you were going to do all the inside bits yourself. This way if the only thing you
cant do is the ouside topcoat, you will only have to pay for that bit.
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No matter how clean you think your car is, dont be surprised if you find evidence of old repairs.
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Even this second hand guard I picked up had an old repair. As the filler was in good condition and there was no evidence of rust, I smoothed it over
and primed it up.
Filler is not as diabolical as some people think. If used correctly it achieves the required result.
It should not be used on seams, rust holes or any unstable surface.
Although if this was a true restoration, the old filler must come out.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The smaller parking dents were filled with two part spot putty. This can be applied over painted surfaces, as long as the painted surface is stable
and sanded completely with 180 grit first.
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This is me applying the primer in the oven with a full flow airwash mask on. If I was painting for extended periods of time I would have a suit on
too.
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Here you can see the bonnet and decklid painted inside with acrylic lacquer satin black.
Like I said, it is cheap and doesn't have to be perfect as this is not a show car. Doing the insides like this alone has saved me two days work, a
couple of front door rubbers and well I suppose quite a substancial cost in two pack paint.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The cache of panels ready to paint.
These have all been repaired, puttied as neccesary, primed, rubbed with 800grit and cleaned with prepwash.
The insides of the doors, bonnet and decklid have also been done in satin black.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
The car body rubbed with 240 grit.
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Here it is in the oven dusted off, prepwashed and masked up.
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Another view.
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While it was in the oven, straight after priming, the door jambs and inside the engine bay and edges of bonnet area painted black.
You can also see here that I hazed some black on the primer in preparation for rubbing it back next weekend.
I also took the liberty of doing the sills behind where the sidesteps go, and all of the inner wheel arches. This was all steam cleaned last week
before starting the project, so it was nice and clean, and now black instead of white.
More paint to protect against rust.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
This is it after the primer was baked and the paper removed, put aside ready for me to rub next weekend and get ready to paint. You can see the black
door jambs, which will be masked off when it gets painted.
[Edited on 9-5-2004 by Helbus]
As this is a lengthy thread I will post a Questions thread so this can remain a bit neater for all to view.
That concludes my two days of work so far
This was all done on Fri 2/1 & Sat 3/1.
Two people, Me and the missus.
Ya gotta get one that will work on the dubs. Although, It is her car and she has got me working on it really.
:thumb:thumb
What a great post Helbus, well done and thanks for putting in the effort to share the info with everyone!
I can't wait to see the end result!
:thumb:thumb