hey guys
im gonna paint the kombi i have and its currently enamel paint.
i have heard that enamel will react with 2 pac paint???
im going to give it a light sand over (what grit paper should i use?????) and then hit it with a coat of epoxy 2 pac primer will this work ok???
i only want to do a light sand im thinking something around 240 grit paper but am unsure?
cheers
rhys

Rhys if your going tospend teh money youve earnt working hard on a good 2 Pak paint job.... then go buy 8 liters of paint stripped and strip off the old enamel crap back to BARE metal and do the job properly from scratch

THERE ARE NO SHORT CUTS

this way there wont be any problems with paint reacting with each other and wasting the money you spent on 2 pak.

hey dave
i dont want to go all out and do a bare metal job i just really want it to be a respray but in 2 pac! i will be doing all the work myself including painting and that and dads got the paint covered (am using industrial 2 pac)
anyone else have any other opinions??
cheers
rhys

really you should remove the old paint but you can use a sealer. Most the automotive paint suppliers do one and they work as well as each other. What the sealer will do is coat and protect the new paint from the old but be very carefull that you get a good coverage or it will react. In some case's it will react no matter what you do but with out stripping it all off this is your only option.

As for sanding i am guessing your painting it in direct gloss so you would want to be rubbing it with 400 dry or 600 wet ......

At the end of the day its you ride and do as you feel fit but i will say you really should strip the old paint off.I have seen some real nasty jobs over the years where people have try'd to paint over enamel and if it reacts up you will be stripping it all off anyways...

Best of luck

steff...................

rhys..

before spraying primer, you need to feather out any really rough bits with 240 grit paper, then fill any chips/gouges that havnt been feathered (im assuming the bus is pretty straight?)

then go over the whole bus panel by panel with 320 grit paper on an orbital.. this is ideal grit to sand with before primer. make sure you remove ALL shine, ad paint dosent stick so smooth surfaces..

when primed, you will want to rub with 320, then 500 grit Dry with an orbital - this does the hard work of flattening the texture of the primer.. then go onto 600wet, and finish with 800 wet. - this gives you more control and you remove the previous scratches, and leaves you with a surface that is smooth to look at, but rough enough to paint on (if that makes sense)

if you have small sections that are tricky, just 600 to flatten the texture of the primer and finish, ready for colour with the 800, wet and by hand

dry with orbital, wet by hand

if there are repairs you will need to block them when primed before using the 320 orbital

hope this helps ya mate!

paint stripping also isnt a bad thing, just be sure to use 500 grit paper afterwards to remove any traces of chemically modified paint/metal then prime/rub as mentioned above

You could also get some single pack epoxy etch primer to use like a barrier coat, advise that you keep you coats a little on the dry side, if you put it down too wet you will see the enamel fry give ten to fifiteen mins between coats and you'll be able to build up enough coats to give it a lite wet cut with 800 wet/dry paper. One more thing leave it for about a week before you cut or final coat this will allow the solvents to come out.

This does work I've done it many times, just don't rush it.

Good luck

Rhys

I dont trust sealers etc ... i would rather spend $100. 00 on paint stripped and a day or 2 hard work, than spend $1000.00 on wasting paint. then have to strip it back to bare metal anyway.

You need to wash the stripped car down with plenty of water then wash with thinners especially in the seams.

you could you air dry enamel if you dont want to go to all the preperation.

Rhys, it cost Mandie $800 to have her splitty bead blasted back to bare metal outside and half the inside. Considering the time it would take you to either sand the whole bus or paint strip it (keeping in mind busses have alot of surface area), I would spend the extra cash and have it stripped to bare metal. Remember preparation is 90% of quality and durability of the finish, if you're going to take the time, effort and expense to paint it, you may as well do it right.

Remember industrial paint is not colour matched to the same standard as auto paint, so make sure you have enough before you start, otherwise you may end up with slightly different coloured panels.

[Edited on 16-8-2004 by PurpleT3]

Rhys.
As you know im in the miiddle of doing my 57, if you are spraying 2 pac its because you want it to last(which it does as its a very hard paint) so dont waste your time and money by not doing the job properly.
Get it blasted and have them etch primer it, most blasters include this in the price.
Then you have a bare canvas. You also get to see how sound the bodywork is.
The trouble with enamel is you have to get rid of it if you want to cover it with something else.
Most of the sealers are crap and if you are sanding as well you might have to spray the sealer a couple of times.
Also how about the inside, if you want that to mach the outsside you will have to seal that too.

Its not worth it.
Get Blasted.
Cheers
Dave

u can prepare dodgily, and it wont matter how well u spray, it'll look shit.. prep well, and an average spray, it'll still look better

hey
i have had cars blastered and that would be an option if i wanted to restore it but at the moment i just want it to look better then what it is cause at the moment it looks crappy !!!!
thanks for all your help guys and ill report back on any miss happenings on my trials of this!
cheers
rhys

So put Air dry enamel on it if you only want it to look pretty

dont waste your money on 2 Pak, unless you do the preperation..

2 pac is cheaper then enamel in my case thats why i chose it! dad put some over some enamel and it didnt react so its really a trial thing!!
come one dave cut me some slack
cheers
rhys

hi there,if you want just pretty,wet rub with the white with 600 wet,then paint the 2k straight over dont primer it,first coat just a tac coat,let dry then hit it with 2 to 3 coats,let tac of between each one,last coat little wetter,wait until the weather gets warmer into the mid 20s at least,bro this will turn out a nice daily drive...
keep it simple,
cheers......
go the back yard style......:beer

hey
wel sanded back the body with 80 grit paper (120 grit in some places) and it come up pretty well got the 2 pac primer on it know just doing a few fills and putting on a build coat this afternoon!!! it turned out quite well with no reactions at all!!! i did put in 18 hours sanding though so prep was good!!
well get up some pics this afternoon hopefully with build coat on!!
if not tomorrow is another day!
cheers
rhys

great work! cant wait to see pics

OK....so what about epoxy enamel over 2 pac????

well no pics yet been too busy for pic time!!! i have all the bog work done around the body and to mine and my old mans eyes its pretty damn straight!! noticed the sills had rusted out and where all bog so my bro is bending me up some tomorrow and hopefully welding them in then too!! cant wait for the first build coat to go on and then the second then the first top coat its getting exciting!!!
i see the colours hopefully tomorrow so hopefully they are what i like!
cheers
rhys

so? done yet? like to see pikkies and commentary on how it all turned out

ok
in build coat am waiting for sill to be folded up (turned into a pain in the arse but have a folder ready to do the job and doing it as we speak) am also waiting on my bros welding skills which have been held up by him building container carriers, cradles etc so that has delayed
will post pics soon but am in the middle of doing TAFE exams :cussing:cussing:cussing
cheers
rhys

I suppose in this instance, Rhys you are going to do the job your way. That is fine, and you have gone into it forwarned that it MAY cause problems. You are a gambling man and it may be to your benefit cost & time wise.

It sounds like you are working hard on it. Is it going to be a daily driver?

Please let us know if you have any problems or reations etc.
I don't think anyone will be saying "I told you so" if anything happens, it will be beneficial to others if you let everyone know how it goes.

hey
yer now worries was waiting for your little bit of advice helbus!!! i have found little to no reactions except for a spot where there was abit of old bog (which i dug out and refilled)so far so good!!
i just wish the tradies around here werent so god damn lazy!! the product is great it just takes days to do!!! was meant to get sill section today and said oh yer first thing monday!!! which put me about another week behind!!
it will just be a daily driver that might turn into something special but it will never be a show car!!
just a lowering job,porsche telephone dials, tinted windows etc all something a kid my age dreams of!!!
cant wait for the day i look at it sitting pride in the garage under a cover and im doing this to a fridolin!!
anyway enough with the crap will keep this updated as progress happens (i know hate sanding and bogging!)
cheers
rhys

finally got some pics while it was out of the shed looking for marks that need to be filed in the sunlight!
cheers
rhys

2

ok shes seating wh\iuth white oin top and wating for the paint to bake right so i can mask up for the orange hopefully monday/tuesday
cheers
rhys