Whats the best way to strip paint on the cheap? stripper? wire wheel? combination of these or just for out for a blaster..hmmmm any advice
appreciated
Oh while I'm at it does anyone know a panel guy in Bris who would be capable of smoothing my bug (removing gutter etc) I'm handy with a mig but I'm
not confident enough that I could get this job right
[Edited on 27-9-2004 by 555bug]
Hmm removing gutter?, you mean the rain channels?,
Hmmm, good question - I'm in the middle of this task myself -using a wire wheel (read: slow, noisy and dusty) ....
... don't mind if I watch this topic for answers do you?
R
Depends who is doing the work. Bead blasting is the quickest and easiest (for you) way to strip paint back to bare metal. Only takes a day, gets
into all the nooks and crannys really well. The down side, it costs money, $800 for a kombi, bit less for a beetle I guess. I'm not sure, you might
be able to hire a booth and do it yourself and save some money.
I would hate to tackle a whole car with a wire brush or paint stripper. It would be bloody hard work and take ages. Add up the cost of doing it
yourself - stripper, gloves, scrapers etc or wire brushes, sand paper etc versus paying a bead blaster to do it for you. It's probably cheaper to do
it yourself, but if you have the money, get it blasted.
Hi
I went a Wurth [1300 657 765] trade night the other night and they had a pretty cool wire brush system, it would probably cost as much as bead
blasting anyway.
Steve
good old brake fluid works wonders but the clean up after is a pain in the arse
When using Paint stripper .... scuff the surrface with 36 grit paper so as the stripper will activate faster ...
Wash off with heaps of water then get some general purpose thinner and wash it again... especially the seams as the stripper tends to suck into
the metal folds... then bleed out again on yr new paint job
Make sure your use PPE... n dont rub yr eyes as the stripper gets every where
also cover the stripper with plactic, to hold the ammonia in.. also speeds up the process.. after washing with water to neutralise the acids.. then thinners to remove whats left.. it's a good idea to give the panels a buzz with 320 grit paper. ready for etch primer & then high solid primer
Hi there
My brother stripped his lj torana back to bare metal with a strip and clean disc. Looks like a fat grinding disc, honycomb kind of thing. Doesnt
attack the metal at all, but rips the hell out of any filler, paint and rust. Very messy, but way faster than a wire wheel. Should be able to get it
from a good auto store or paint shop.
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3m makes a stripping product.... stick it on a grinder... 5 inch will save your arms. if you use chemical stripped as dave says scuff it up.... buy a
wheel still and keep 1 inch from all the seams....mask it up with 2 inch tape .
apply the chem stripper one way and do it THICK if you brush back over it you release the initial gasses at its less effective, cover in plastic or
glad wrap and let it sit..... go over it with steel wool soap pads and alot of water to remoce the remnants of the soft paint left over after
scraping.... a strong detergent like dishwasher POWDER (not tablets) and the soap pads the detergent wil watsh it away. rince with thinners and keep
cleaning till spotless then attack the seams with the stripper.... and hit any body work that is still there after stropper
cheers
adam
if you attempt shaving the car yourself just go slow 1 inch at a time cut tack weld grins finish..... cut tack weld grind finish etc etc
hmmm cheesr I'm starting on a test roof section so I'll see how I go I'm also just considering forking out for a decent blaster...dunno yet
Just gota watch warpage with the blasting.... and youll find sand EVERYWHERE afterwards do wash it or blow evry nook and cranny out with air