OK, I am planning some bodywork (actually I am planing to do the whole bug, but one thing at a time...)

Q: Do you put bog under or over the undercoat?
Q: My undercoat says to make sure it is all grease and wax free, is it OK to use rust converter under this?

Q: What grades of sandpaper should be used at which stages?

Okay, im not a pro, and im sure pro's will back me up

Applying "Bog" is best to bare metal or over epoxy primer. scuff with 36 grit apply bog and then set and sand. if you are spraying metal you should etch prime it then epoxy prime it, ......

use the rust coverter then wash it down with wax and grease remover spray tack and wax n grease btwn coats.....

You can do it any way at all. There is no wrong way. It all depends on the money, time and quality you are after. It also depends on your patience, skill and willingness to learn.

Have a read through the "Respray of a Beetle" threads at the top of this section and you may find a few answers in there.

i`m doing my own at the moment, it might not be perfect as i am not a panelbeater or spraypainter, but i can say i did it myself:thumb
bog goes best on bare metal,use rust converter before bog,wax and grease before painting primer then before colour coat.sand papers as adam said 36 to scuff the metal ,80 to rub back bog to start with,then progress to something finer say 180 then 320,rub back your primer with 600 to a nice smooth finish before colourcoating:blah:blah:o:o:o
as i say i`m no tradey but its good to say you did it yourself my paint job has cost me about $160 if i`m lucky and plenty of hours,the most expensive bit is the window and body rubbers

well, I am loking o do it n the cheep. I don't have much time, but I am prepared for the job to take ages till it is all done. i intend to do it bit by bit (it will look a bit funny alongtheway,but will get there)

I intend to paint by brush with house paint, and take the time to sand to get it right (and it wont be perfect..butthatis what you do onthe cheep!)

and the idea of having don it myself appeals

Im painting by 58 bug at the moment:

•Strip to bare metal. Always wear disposable gloves as the oils from your hands sticks to metal very well and will rear its ugly head in a few years! Materials are often hazardrous, besides, your hands will look nice and respectable after! hehe

•Rust convertor...wait 24 hours. dry wipe. then wax and grease car x 2

•Etch prime

•2K body filler. Sand with 40grit, then 80grit

•Hi fill primer>Wax + grease>Spray guide coat
rub back dry with 400grit.(You may have to put more coats on depending on whether you've rubbed back too far, and always etch prime bare metal if it shows through) I always have some on hand in an air tight jar as it keeps for ahwhile

•Primer the whole car(use a contrasting color if possible as it will be a visual indicator if getting too close to the hi-Fill)
••Guide coat

•wax and grease again...

•wet rub with 600...then 800
Use soapy water(dishwashing liquid) this helps lubricate the paper and makes rubbing easier. Stops the paper from clogging
(To check how straight the panels are use wax+ grease remover soaked rag and wipe on, view from an acute angle) Wipe off asap

Let the car sit for a week or two. This helps make sure that everything is 110% cured. Double check level of straightness with W+G remover

• You can now put the color on...(depending on what paint you use methods will vary) Solids, metallics, pearls, kandy's and cameleon

This is the method I use and so far so good, as I am not a spraypainter. Have done a few cars and the results are A1.
Prep work is everything as the color only compliments good bodywork...with clear coats adding dept


Hope this helps-Wayne

[Edited on 9-11-2004 by 5PL1TDCS10N]

Do you mean rust converter, or metal conditioner?

rust converter turns red scaly loose rust into a more sealed, more stable black product, but does not remove the rust.

metal conditioner treats the surface of bare metal and puts a phosphorous etch on it. This also aids in cleaning the surface and is an acid. Must be cleaned and wiped with a wet rag.

Hi Helbus,

I always use Rust Converter or Fertan, as I only apply it to small areas that i can't DA/sand out, and with Fertan you can weld steel with it on too.
I've never tried the metal conditioner thought as Im a bit paranoid about washing down a car in water, I guess you could use turps or thinners to neutralise the acid?

Cheers-Wayne

you use water to neutralise the acid..
then thinners to evaporate any moisture left on the panel..

any rust that would appear would be surface rust, and is removeable with a clean and strip disk, or maroon scotch bright.

wouldnt you remove any concerous rust completley anyway?

Why use rust converter on body panels, isnt it better to cut the rust out????

I stripped mine to bare metal, then panel beat it and added filler where needed, then coated it in 2 pac epoxy, then made sure it was as straight as i wanted it to be then a bit more filler and more primer then paint.
I sanded minr back with 320 on a disc, and then by hand with 500.
I then used a 2 pac paint , came out o.k.
Another excuse to post a pic

Cheers
Dave

And here it is finished.

Cheers
Dave

wel, it has taenages, but i have nearly got the left taillight done (I did say I was going to do this slowly!) I had a little problem with the wax reover, which I sprayed on the colour coat, and took it half off. So i sandd that back, and tried again. he other issue was to make sure I had it thin enough to not to show up brush stokes.

Shuld I sand it back before waxing it,andif so, what with?

I'll see if i can get some photos up...

thanks for the advice!

I didnt like the finish that 2 pac gives, too orange peely for me, so I rubbed mine back with 1200, wet paper then 1500 then 2000.Make sure it keeps wet, and put a few drops of dish washing liquid in the bucket, it helps keep the paper clog free.
I then used 3M rubbing compound and then polish.

Hope this helps
Cheers
Dave