Always best to take all of the concerning parts back to bare metal again.

Best way to remove to bare metal is bead blast. If that is not an option then paint stripper. The instructions will be on the can and it is very very very very messy.

Expect removal of the old paint to be a few hundred dollars worth of stripper/ painter/ cleaner and a few weeks of your time.

Are you sure what you are describing is rust?.. Before I go to the trouble of a "back to metal" I would get a paint/panel guy to take a look.. Rust can develop under anything if the preparation wasn't done properly.. But if the previous guy did take it back to metal, it would be odd if it has corroded to that extent.. Could the discolouration be a surface prep under the primer?..
Just my thoughts but I certainly would be getting someone with knowledge to take a look before I do anything..
Rob

It's ok if you are painting your house in water based acrylic, or the kids are doing some watercolours.

I don't think I understand the question?

You should not paint cars with any moisture on the panel. If your compressor is giving moisture out the gun head, then you need a water trap, or in really humid circumstances a drier, which is like a refrigerator that takes all of the moisture out of the air. We use them in panel shops due to the sheer volume of air consumed, and they cost thousands!

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Your surface prep looks excellent.

The red coloured stuff looks like an oxide primer which is good.

If the primer you have is in a sealed can, then moisture won't be a problem.

Go for it

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For some reason i trust hellbus over louiser on this one...maybe its because thats what he does for a living...

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Loui, do you ever say anything positive, p#@$ off!!!!!!

Just ignore him guys, he has been reported. Louis you have no right to say some of the things you do, and I don't care what you have said to me, I am saying this in regards to negative comments towards others.

Even if I do make a mistake I am man enough to stand up and accept it.

Primer in a sealed can not having moisture problems is still a fact, I am not telling any fibs there. I am trying to help here. In fact I certainly feel I can actually get respect from my peers as I show respect to them.

37 posts of utter crap...Im guessing he's someone else stirring shite

Thanks for your info peter, very much appreciated!!!

So where are your suggestions VDubya/Louis - you seem to be so quick to bag everyone else, what wise words of wisdom can you provide from your many years of experience?

Anyway back on topic.

Looking at the prep and the surface you are showing in the pictures it looks fine to prime. The primer you have on the vehicle looks stable, and probably the best primer to use over it would be a red oxide etch primer which will work towards making sure any minor problems in regards to moisture are rectified.

Spies Hecker 2 Pack Red Brown primer actually has some conversion agent in it especially to prevent moisture related problems, unless they are severe of course.

Your bus will not rust away. Rust holes always start from inside. behind panels where dirt and water build up.

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Offtopic here. Does anyone know what a troll is?

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Proc.. Keep at it mate.. Don't worry too much about the negative shit..
Preparation is the key.. If you do that right, you will have a good looking bus for years to come..

Spies Hecker is one of the best, although PPG make one similar that is a two pack etch primer, but I am unsure if it is red/brown in colour

In fact your paint shop should be able to offer whatever brand they specialise in. The inportant thing to get is a two part etch primer suitable for primary layer application. These primary layer etch primers are designed to etch, seal, prime and usually the better ones have qualities that make them hold minor imperfections of surface rust at bay.

Now remembering that perfect clenliness and brand new metal would be a perfect world, well it isn't, so they put these additives to help. This is not to say that a scaly rusty surface can be fixed, as the amount of additives to do that would leave no primer.

Like a lot of formula's. They can only use so much of each additive until the product will fail in another area. It is up to you to get it to the stage you have got it, and the bit that hurts is that it is the more expensive products that do the better job.

Dont use industrial on part steel etch primer, as it is designed for sheds and tractors that are to be painted in air dry enamel. You wont get a good paint finish on top of it.

I took Hellbus' advice and Stephs and Killakorns and alls turned out well...if you can't be an asset to a thread, don't be a drain ...