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body work primer
BUGBOY - November 3rd, 2006 at 07:39 PM

Now I'm no expert but I notice a lot of people doing body work and then hitting it with some primer etc.
I find the primer is not really good to leave the car in for a long time as it still attracts moisture.
I had rubbed some of my car back to bare metal and primed and I ended up rubbing it back again to bare metal to find tiny spots. ( start of rust ) I was using a top quality primer but the car has sat for a long time.
So now I'm just going bare metal all over and treating with Metal conditioner DX 520 SG which is a PPG product.
I find this will also let the lead work on my car breathe also.
Anyone got some thought or better suggestions?

vw54 - November 3rd, 2006 at 07:53 PM

yeah after you have primed the area hit it with a light coat of spary enamel any colour
this will hold the surface but not good for a long time

Its easy to rub off late when yr doing a final prep b4 paint

BUGBOY - November 3rd, 2006 at 07:59 PM

Yeah I thought of that but it just seems like twise the work.
I think I just need to spend more time in the shed and get the shell finished.

vw54 - November 3rd, 2006 at 08:03 PM

well that will always help too many interuptions mate

give it a squirt with some flat Black its easier to rub

n onl;y a pissy spary OK :blah:blah:blah:blah:blah:blah

BUGBOY - November 3rd, 2006 at 08:18 PM

And take the fridge out of the shed! LOL

5PL1TDCS10N - November 3rd, 2006 at 09:13 PM

Hi Bugboy,

Have you tried 2pac epoxy etch primer? That works really and keeps for years.

W

karmen - November 3rd, 2006 at 10:17 PM

took some panels off the 58 split and as i was twisting it off some bog bounced off leaving bare metal that seemed to have been lacquered wit clear at the time


well some time in the last 40 years or so...no rust there even though it has in other places as it was under a tree
maybe 25 yrs

now am gunna see what happens when i wet it

bajachris88 - November 3rd, 2006 at 10:19 PM

wow.....


I'm screwed :jesus

OvalMat56 - January 23rd, 2007 at 08:54 PM

If it was me I would use Dp 40 It is a PPG product an Epoxy Primer. As long as your metal is clean. It is poly eurathane based, which means you can do your filler work ove rit and then re sseal it as well stop and moisture this should a long time and save doing the job twice !!

Cheers
Matt

Mr and Ms Vdub - January 23rd, 2007 at 09:33 PM

light coat of rust paint seems to work fine, if not do small bits, prime then coat with any top coat rattle can, then move on, strip the whole lot, when your happy, then spray for the final time.

helbus - January 23rd, 2007 at 10:51 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Mr and Ms Vdub
light coat of rust paint seems to work fine, if not do small bits, prime then coat with any top coat rattle can, then move on, strip the whole lot, when your happy, then spray for the final time.


You have to be prepared to remove everything back to bare metal again or back to the filler if you put products on that are not compatible with the final topcoat product you will be using.

The two part epoxy primer is one of the best ways to protect as good as a topcoat and have a product that adheres very well. It is able to have any good products used on top of it. You can use body filler, polyester or primer on top of it. You must follow the manufacturers instructions, and that usually means a full sanding using 80# - 180# sandpaper before the next product going on top.

Also making sure the products used underneath are done properly will ensure the best final finish that will last.

Normally at work we
Abrasive blast
Do all metal repairs, metal finishing and lead fill work
Abrasive blast chassis and shell again
Two part epoxy primer and bake
Wait one week
Rub with 80 Grit
Filler work finished in 150#
Prime and polyester then bake
Rub and rub and rub finish to 320#
Putty then bake
Rub and rub and rub and rub finish to 1200#
Basecoat, topcoat, bake
wait one week
Rub with 1200# then 2000#
Buff, buff, buff, polish, polish,polish

One magic mirror finish with about 600-800 labour hours

There are a lot more steps involved that include inside panels, clean and strip wheels, cleaning lead work down to remove solder flux acid, painting separate parts like chassis, inside parts, partial panel assembly and gapping.