Sorry,
shifted this here I got an attack of the guilts after hijacking Bronzes post.

Got the pan blasted, most of the crap was off. A little tar and stuff remained but mostly clean metal. The pan had the original paint and some hammercote on it. There were torn tar tiles along the tunnel and a little rust inside the tunnel as well.
I decided to paint it with POR15, because
a. no-one has a bad word about the stuff (except the fact it doesn't come off skin until the skin comes off)
b. It looks good, and
c. I needed to coat it with something before it rustsaway.

A little of what it was like prior to blasting
(Gratuitous sponsor plug with Micks logo under the pan)

Looks a little better now

Can anyone tell me what this is for? I did not notice it until after the pan had been blasted. Drainage??

Before I get things thrown at me, yes I saw the grommet before I painted the pan, just not before it came home from being blasted. This is what the area looks like now

Nice looking pan!

Andrew

looks sweet

Hopefully it'll help the pan stay solid till I get back.
By then I hope the paint will be rock hard and I can progress the build up from there.
There are a few spots I didn't get to, put they are in out of the way places (inside tunnel in the corners etc), so I can do them by hand when I have lots of time on my hands.
Cheers
Penguin

Pan looks great. Are you going to leave it in Rust preventative or are you going to put chassis coat over the top again ?
How much did it cost to get the pan sand blasted ?

Mark.

No POR15 is a one coat solution. Its a rust preventative and top coat. Check out its reported details and you will see why I am not worried about it under there.
I will be putting sound deadener under here as well, but want it to be good underneath all the gunk first.
As for cost, well I was quoted about $450 to have it chem stripped, and it cost me $200 (a full hour work) to have it blasted as they had to get the old tar tiles off the tunnel. Otherwise it may have only cost $100 (half an hour). Got it done in St Marys at Scotts Blasting. He was very easy to get on with and very accomodating, but he said he will only do large items like the pan, not light small items.
Hope to hear about yours when I get back,
cheers
Penguin

Hi Penguin,

Yes I have read up about POR 15 and have used it quite a bit. I was just interested if you were going to go to the effort of using the Chassis coat, but as you say it is really not needed on the chassis !!!, as it will not get to much direct sun light (well maybe if you roll it and leave it upside down for a few days !!).
I have used rustpreventative and then chassis coat on the bars on my buggy as I did not want them to fad in the sun....well actually I have only done the back one in chassis coat so far and it is fine but the front just in rust preventative looks pretty average now. Not worried as I still need to finish the front bar and will then paint it properly.
I have just bought some of there new hard nose paint to use on engine tin ware, so will be interested to see how it goes.

You asked what the hole in the bottom of the pan near the back is for. You are right it is a drain plug for the tunnel. Looks like you might even have the correct plug in there which is good as it is suppose to keep stuff out but let water drain out of the tunnel if it happens to get in there.

Mark.

Guys,
In a few weeks I will embark on bare metalling my bug. I have done this before with paint stripper, a scraper and masking tape , just curious though. Can you get it sandblasted off and then sand it back from there?

Cheers

Adam :bounce

Bare metalling the body is different from what I got done, Make sure that your blaster knows what he/she is doing. They have to take care not to warp the metal on the body as it is no-where as thick as the pan (well D'uh he says) and you can end up with a really bad panel beating job if it happens.
My guy did not do thin or small objects for that reason, he was not willing to take the risk. He most likely would have the skills for it, but dd not want to risk the damage. But trust me, after sandblasting, there isn't that much you will need to scrape or sand. There is and will be lots and lots and lots of sand in every single crevice that is available and in a few that you never knew about. Cleaning it all out is really important as it will assist water cause cancer in your 'clean' shell. Suck, blow, brush, scoop it all out and I bet you still find some in there years laer anyway.
Cheers
Penguin

penguin, firstly i must say your pan looks very nice...
now for the Q. how did you apply the paint to the pan? spray or brush? if brush, what type?
i have a pan that is close to being ready for paint and are looking for any ideas to get it as good as possible when finished.
thanks
henry.

Don't laugh. I used those cheap three dollars fifty brushes from Super Cheap! Mind you I did spend a little time pulling out the fibres that came loose while painting. The paint is great, almost fully self levels itself, but I did do a little sanding when it hardened and a recoat of bits.Hopefully leaving it alone for hte next three months will help it harden before I start bashing away at rebuilding the car :P
Cheer
Penguin