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bare metal when do I add fishoil
tan36 - July 15th, 2007 at 08:21 PM

I have spent the day with paint stripper taking one of my fenders back to bare metal, (which looks so good). Had about 7 coats of paint on it.
I have brought some rust converter which the stripper can said to put on after I have washed it down with a grease and oil remover, which I have done.
I remember reading somewhere to coat it with fishoil to stop rust, when do I need to do this?
I also need to do some patch up work on the fender as I have removed all the bog that was under the paint to show some dents, do I do this before or after the oil or converter. Do I need to use bog or can I bang them out some how.

Then I think I just coat it with primer and paint away is that correct.

thanks
tania


VWCOOL - July 15th, 2007 at 08:49 PM

Fish oil goes on last, after painting and assembly to the car. It is rust-proofing

However, oil can be used to keep bare metal from rusting after paint etc has been removed if you need to preserve a surface for soem time (a month or whatever) during a restoration. Then you wipe it off and get on with priming, painting etc


vw54 - July 16th, 2007 at 07:50 AM

use the fish oil last after you have painted the car and assembled it


Use a bit of engine oil on a rag after you have paint stripped the parts to hold them from rusting while your work on getting the dents out or doing welding of rust repairs etc etc

Bang out the dents to straigten out the panels and get the shape of them back before applying bog

wash of the oil before you apply bog to smooth the panels out


helbus - July 16th, 2007 at 10:59 AM

In restoration we do this order

This is by no means the ONLY way to do the job, however it is what we do to give a lifetime guarantee on a restoration.

1 - complete stripping of panel to bare metal by media blasting, stripper etc.
2 - metal panel repairs as required, with spray can primer to protect repair areas as they get surface rust quickly from working on them.
3 - re strip all panels back to bare metal
4 - De-Oxidine metal conditioner to remove any traces of oxidisation and prep the metal surface to promote adhesion.
5 - Surface etch prime. This is a two part thin clear/ green product
6 - Epoxy primer. Quality two part brand
7 - Complete rub back 240 grit and missing nowhere at all.
8 - fine filler work to smooth any panel ripples or imperfections.
9 - the paint process
10 - fish oil inside all body cavities


tan36 - July 16th, 2007 at 08:29 PM

Thanks :) for that information.
I will get to that this weekend
then I can start on the next one.

It was so exciting see each inch of metal on the 1st one but I am sure that will not be happening at the end of the job..LOL

tania


VWCOOL - July 16th, 2007 at 10:12 PM

Top advice compayo