HOT TIP, if you are doing ANY resto work check out the POR15 products. http://www.por15.com.au 

After you have cleaned the majority of crap n gunge off with scraper, wire brush, elbow grease etc or whatever you use, the 'Marine Clean' product will get the last residue of everything off. Then use the 'Metal Ready' product to convert the existing rust. Then paint with 2 coats of Rust Preventative Paint (within 3 to 5 hours of each other) and even using a paint brush it looked as good as the spray job we did with other products.

By comparison we did a front beam using a three step process, cleaned it with solvent, wire brush, degreaser, everything we could throw at it. Then we used a common industrial rust converter, then used the spray gun for two coats of industrial enamel. At the same time we did the front of the chassis with the three step por15 process and the difference is incredible. Ideal for chassis, suspension, floor pans, lotsa stuff. They reckon it stops rust permanently. Thats a big claim. But worth testing I reckon.

pics would be good to see

I used some about 6 years ago (silver) to paint the inside edges of my bumpers as the chrome doesn't work too well in that area and they have been great since with no signs of wearing off or any rust. I just used a paint brush as well and it looks good.

Yogie

POR 15 has been used in the USA for 20 years

Most cars that are restored over there have used POR 15 under the chassis etc as stones don't chip it.. so no rust..

The chassis black doesn't like UV rays.. goes very dull...
but this won't happen on Your chassis..

I have two sons who have used it... and I know others who swear by it...
another similar product in the USA is Silver bullet...

You can hit Your POR15 painted chassis with a hammer without any damage.. this stuff IS GOOD...

Why You would bother with any other chassis paint ????
and all done with a paint brush.... lol

LEE

The base product is not UV stable,
All the top coats are
It is very good, brush & roller will flow out for a pretty smooth finish, sprayed surfaces are awesome

Yes,
a brushed on black GLOSSY POR 15 chassis looks like its been sprayed on.. it just flows... EXCELLENT

The main reason its used overseas is the SALT and chemicals used on icy roads in the Northern Hemisphere eats bare metal very quickly..
so POR 15 doesn't chip.... when applied correctly...
to chassis under guards/fenders etc...

the alternative overseas is to use Your old engine oil to coat under Your beetle.. very often...
and a leaking VW engine is all oily greasy so the chemicals and salt don't eat it either...

I bought a beetle a few years ago locally and sitting under a tree was the original VW engine... next to a swimming pool ...
whatever chemicals or salt they were using in the pool had eaten most of the steel and most of the alloy....

Never ever seen anything like it.... YIKES...

No wonder they use POR 15 over there...

LEE

This is what it looks like after it has been marine cleaned and then had metal ready applied.



And then with POR 15 on it.

I cant talk on the rust proof quality, but the finish on my floor pan came up beautiful (my thoughts only).

Kev

thanks for the pics Camo, they show it better than mine do. I'm inspired now, for years I have had no satisfaction with killing rust on any resto work I have done on VW's or Landrovers. The floor pan looks great!

I used it on a car.......did all the prep properly.....and it peeled off

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens I used it on a car.......did all the prep properly.....and it peeled off

I know of two other cases like Craigs

Both were done properly

White Knight

POR15 inspires me, might have to get me some of that.....and hopefully it won't peel off.

Like Craig, I had it peel off once - admittedly it was applied over primer not bare metal BUT I double checked with the rep first and was assured it would adhere. I guess I should give it another go over bare metal but once bitten twice shy so they say.
Al

Ive just used the por 15 fuel tank kit in my bike tank because there was a little surface rust on the bottom and it bothered me the tank was ok as long as it had some fuel in it
this crap has split and pealed off and now Im up for 2 grand for a new tank I hadnt even put fuel in it yet
I painted a chassis in kill rust 20 years ago and it still looks good
typical american product that doesnt live up to the hype like a harley or a jeep etc
I followed the instructions to the letter and was waiting the 4 days for it to cure and it failed on the third

There is also this stuff that appears to be the same as POR 15 but is cheaper. Never used it, but might give it a go after I have run out of POR.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/index.html 

Hi

I would to hear from anyone using the kbs stuff

Steve

Por15, wouldn't waste my money on that again.

I went the grey, needed more and when it was delivered was a different shade of grey!!!
And like the others on here followed the instructions and it peeled.
Not only that, the grey went to a dull matt finish after some time and it wasn't even exposed to the sun's UV rays.........
Now I have to waste more money on stripping my pan + parts to make it look nice.

Cheers

Hi

Ive read the prep needed on that KBS stuff, I think I will stay with white knight http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/ 

Steve

I've used the KBS system on my pan, front beam and various other bits and pieces, such as brake drums, fuel tank and steering arms. Works a treat.The only thing is that you need to brush it on in thin coats, to get it to dry bubble free. Looks great once it has dried though.

Sticks like anything! If you get it on your hands, it is there for a week or so.

I did a 63 pan 7 years ago and is still on and super strong, pan was sanblasted and preped with the metal ready. I made sure there was nothing left of the old paint/ oil/grease anywhere.
I'll be using it again.

I used por15 on my single cab tray almost two years ago now.
I rubbed it back (take shine off) and coated over the top with a ute tray finish.
Has lasted well to this point.