okay so have many people done a hydraulic conversion for the clutch.. Let's see some photos

I have been playing with measurements to fit a master cylinder in on early pedals and will hopefully get it all welded up during the week to cut the pan and weld it in.

It's super tight seeing as I'm trying not too modify the body at all

Jake

why you need to do that , what's wrong with cable ???
try asking the Buggys guys

good clutch upgrade:

Why?

ask the Buggy guys, some of them run hydraulic.
but we run stage 3 clutches and its just a mater of making the release lever longer and cheap to do .

Hi Jake,
In response to your question "HOW" not "WHY". You obviously have gone through the pros and cons and don't need to justify why you want a hydraulic clutch. I will be fitting one as well.
Here are a few photos of a particularly good setup I found online.

A few more

looks tricky to top up the fluid like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.
PS Bizarre and me are older and wiser that's why we would ask , why make things harder then they need to be,
the question may be clearer when they explain why they want to do it. ????

Quote:

Originally posted by ian.mezz looks tricky to top up the fluid like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff.

Quote:

Originally posted by karmann141 Quote: Originally posted by ian.mezz looks tricky to top up the fluid like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff. You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square

Unless you have a really heavy clutch there's no need

you may want to do it for the exercise in engineering

The buggy guys do it as they get flex in the chassis

Fitting a later model longer clutch arm will help

Quote:

Originally posted by karmann141 Quote: Originally posted by ian.mezz looks tricky to top up the fluid like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff. You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square

Quote:

Originally posted by ian.mezz Quote: Originally posted by karmann141 Quote: Originally posted by ian.mezz looks tricky to top up the fluid like I said ask some of the buggy owners they know their stuff. You continue to amaze me with your level of ignorance and reluctance to think outside the square you know that I have a Subaru powered beetle

Well the clutch tube is shot and seeing as both option as equally as hard to fix I picked the one where you don't have to chop up as much of the structural part of the pan which is harder for me to fix as I'm no pro welder just yet. And seeing as I have a bare pan why not....I mean no car runs a clutch cable these days...it must have its benefits. It's more serviceable, I believe you get a better feel as it works both ways unlike a cable.

Plus I don't think that a longer arm is really a proper fix, I mean all your pedal travel to clutch movement would go out the window by putting a longer lever arm on. But hey if it works it works I spose, I just want to put in the hard yards now while it's not to hard.

Thanks for those photos btw karmann, at least I know what I have drawn up is on the right track

Exactly the same as I did on another car I built, later pedals are easier as the are fabricated and can be welded easily, as the early pedals are cast steel. use a master cylinder with a remote reservoir, as it will absorb water into the system through the vent hole when it is mounted next to the master cylinder.

haha, those are my pedals! - got a smaller remote res master as that was purely for sizing / confirming theory. and it was done because I have a built box with hydro turbo subaru setup & will end up with a heavier clutch once all is said & done. why? because cable changes suck & why not? clutch feel can be changed by changing cylinder size as well as arm lenghts/pivot points.

Well done and well said. I could'nt remember where I copied the pics from (otherwise I would've given you the credit), but it looked like a good setup. Good to hear straight from from the source.

Hi

I did the same thing as Dave, I think we came came up with this solution together online, only I used Superbug M/C which has an angled mounting which allowed me to move the M/C further over. Im on my laptop at work at the moment so cant post pictures as there's none on it but there are some in my build thread.

Sometimes modifications that I and others do are about journey.

I bought a really nice hydraulic clutch setup at Moore Parts last year for a friend.

Steve

You can eliminate the throw out fork and arm by using a throw out bearing that goes over the input shaft, just have to find the correct height.

Check out my build thread, I put the master in the tunnel to eliminate having to move the brake master cylinder around, (i was getting the car engineered so didn't want those hassles) http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=102601  it's in the middle somewhere...!

The kit I got off Paul at Steelart, it was originally designed for a access hole to be cut in the tunnel, hence my reason for lengthening the pushrod to put it further forward into the frame head area. Didn't want to cut a hole in the tunnel.

Hi

This is the one I bought back states last year
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=c...

the cnc kit is what i am using for mine, i bought the 3/4 bore in red.. ill pop up some photos once the new piece i made is installed. the parts are very good quality on first look i must say, i was impressed.

we drive bugs with over 300hp and a long arm works fine , its just one off of a newer model beetle , why change German engineering.
Its your time and money spend it how you like.
ian.mezz a member of the institute of automotive mechanical engineers for the last 30years
Nope will not see me thinking outside the square , Dick
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJzzPFJRfZ4 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElMIiHY7JYw 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l8xvH242zA 
and look we had a 1970 bug we EFI & a computer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=865VVCE1c1A 

here is the driver of the green and red race/street car she only small, but has no trouble with those besky heavy VW clutches
a clutch cable broke while at Canberra 1/2 hour on the side of the road and we were off again as we always carry a spare cable

Each to there own, that's alright the you have had a good run with your standard set up but there is also nothing wrong with the hydraulic set up. it is even better if you eliminate the standard fork and throw out bearing.

I wasn’t going to waste my time responding to you Ian, but seeing as how this is the second time you’ve called me a ‘dick’, I feel I’m entitled to a right of reply.

What sort of a MORON are you that you just don’t get it ??? – Jake has asked to see pictures of hydraulic clutch conversions – NOT which is better, hydraulic or cable. Why can’t you get it through your thick skull? No-one is arguing with you. A cable is fine but he doesn’t f_ _ _king want one.

When I spoke to you in Warwick, I lost count of the times you told me you were a mechanic – who are trying to convince? As for announcing that you’re a “member of the institute of automotive mechanical engineers for the last 30 years” – any monkey can be a member as long as you pay the annual fee. You would have been better off spending your annual membership fee on toilet paper.

Something tells me that karmann141 and ian.mezz dont really get along