Is it worth my while to fit a oil fillter(fillter connected to pump) to my bug (not remote).I run a standard exhaust.I see "mickmotors"has them$122
so whats the G O on them?

yes

they are ok-ish.

They BESt way is to tap your case for full flow. This is best done during a rebuild.

The next method is the AC.net method where you replace your oil pump with an out pipe and it comes back in one of the pressure relief plugs.

Then there is the CB pump where you replace your oil pump with an in out pump.

If you change your oil regularly i doubt if they are worth it. Bur the connection can also double for an external oil cooler.
They can be very good.

As a word of caution i know of several motors that have gone bye bye's cause they have blown an oil line and obviously lost oil and pressure.
I also know of a few racers who will not run external coolers because of this very reason.

I do not like the spin on filters connected to the pump. They are in direct line with the hot air coming from the motor

If your air filter is good and your oil is also good why would you need one

besides they came with one in the sump !

This is the style "I" dont like

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=196 

I prefer this style

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=197 

havent looked into either of these

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=194 

or

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=190 

With the remote you can hook an external filter/cooler up and its out of the way. I use to run and external filter under the rear passenger guard but that was then.....

With the external sort you hook up to one of these.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=208 

I just think with a stock motor leave it as it is.
5000km oil changes is enough.

I do change my fillter alot and change my oil about ever 2-3000k,only because I drive it 70ks a week if that for the last 5yrs.should I just stick to this?
rob

Rob, I've used the one that Mick sells on a Baja bug before and had no dramas, some people told me they were now good and would break off but this never happened. Also Blue74L, if the filter was a problem being there near the exhaust then the 2 million or so Kombi's that have their oil filter even closer to their exhaust as standard are all in the shit.........

I'm with 11CAB.
I fitted one from Mick a few years ago to my Beetle. As he says it sits pretty much in the same spot as the stock type 4 filter, so although far from and ideal spot VW used it for many years. It's by far the easiest to install also.
I did have a problem of the oil light coming on when it was cold. Still not quite sure what caused it. I have been told to make sure the hole in the case correctly lines up with the inlet to the pump, and there is a good seal between the pump and the case.
Could also be a problem due to the larger output of these pumps not correctly matched with the gallery size in the case?
Andy

so they aint gonna harm the motor or should I put the money alswhere maybe biger sump,oil temp & pressure?
rob

Quote:

Originally posted by Craig Torrens If your air filter is good and your oil is also good why would you need one besides they came with one in the sump !

thank guys the only thing is that I don't want a full flow job. I havn't the room or the funds for it. but I will put on the bolt-on fillter if you think it worth it?
If you could buy one from the states which brand/company woukd it be?
rob

Rob,
The Best thing YOU can do for Your Volkswagen engine, is add an oil Filter..
The screen VW's have is just that a screen ... not a filter..
There are hundreds probably thousands of Filters bolted onto the engine oil PUMP and NEVER had a problem...
My Son has one on both His beetles and He uses the longer screw on oil filter instead of the short one.. not sure why .... Maybe the short filter was too close to the exhaust extractors...
Your Engine WILL Last much longer, so the filter will pay for itself in the long run... and You Don't have to change Your oil every 1000kms etc... like I do... every 6000 miles would be OK...
You will be able to sleep at night knowing that there are No dirty particles floating around Your engine bearings...
Go For it....
I have NEVER heard anyone with brains Disagree about having a filter before....
Oh well thats life I guess.... Lee

5000kms without an oil change and NO Filter You must be joking....
and what is the big Difference between a stock angine and any other engine ?????
nothing... and they ALL NEED an OIL filter of some kind.to protect the bearings.......

MAXI PUMP 2 would be My choice ***
I had a look thru their website, but it was the only one like it...
You get a new pump as well...
Not Expensive in the USA...
regards
Lee

Hi, 400,000 km can't be too wrong:
get a filter base and pipes from any old valiant. Mount this in engine room, out of the way, preferably so that filter is vertical (less messy). make up a plate with 2 pipes to fit on block where original (inside the fan housing) cooler goes. Route pipes thru back of fan housing, thereby getting more airflow to left bank cylinders. Connect with quality oil hose to filter and then back to block via a (large) external cooler. bingo bobs your uncle, makes engine last for years (and years). Filters are cheap, (Z9 about $4) and you can afford to change filters everytime you change oil. worked for me for ten years, and I was doing lots of k's (read 50,000/per year)

like I said I havn't got room or should I just say I dont want to put a non chrome part in the engine bay... so a bolt-on is the go:thumb

I was under the impression that those particular filter adaptors wouldn't fit in standard beetle and there not full flow so defeats the purpose. Least path of resistance and all that.

i reeeally have to post the pics of how amazingly well my motor survived without all the oil filtering. you shouldn't really be sucking crap into the crankcase anyway... spend your moolahdosh on a set of unifilter or similar aircleaner socks. and an anti-surge sump to protect your bearings. where does all the alleged crap enter the oil from? the proof is in the putting. each to his/her own.

Quote:

Originally posted by amazer Quote: Originally posted by Craig Torrens If your air filter is good and your oil is also good why would you need one besides they came with one in the sump ! Craig, even you cant possibly believe that thing in the sump is a filter. It filters flies. Thata about it. Full flow it, use real hose, real fittings from a real hydraulics place such as pirtek or enzed (not super cheap auto) dont rev the engine when its cold and the oil is thick, no problems with oil hoses. None in my 10 years plus of using them.

Alright then craig. I'm sure your engine isnt being used under any harsh conditions like a type 4 engine. You probably never see more than 1/4 throttle with a 1916 anyway.

And you never replace bearings or rings or any other metal parts in your engine either. To change them would mean that they have worn. Little bits of metal have come off. Err no they would have to be big bits of metal so the flyscreen can filter them out. If you are relying on that strainer to filter oil you might as well drain it through a sock and reuse it.

The metal that wears off when you first start the engine after an oil change will stay there circulating for 3000 miles.

:jesus touchy touchy today Chris

for a moderator you certainly like to see the one side of an arguement, yours. :thumb

yeah sorry craig. they dont take out your brain leaving you without opinion when they hand out the mod badges. The post wasnt intended to be as harsh as it looks. Sometimes I over do it and need to pull my head in. Wasnt meant to be that way this time.

Errrr, one side of an argument??

Just about every auto and bike manufacturer in the world for the last 25 years sees fit to make good use of an oil filter.
What makes a kraut any diferent??
Are all those manufacturers one sided and argumentative?

I would say they (kraut engineers) were simply penny pinching, otherwise they would never have bothered fitting them later on.

Any kind of finer oil filtration, no matter how insignificant it may appear, is in the long term, worth many times the initial outlay on the necessary bits.

There are a myriad of sources of abrasive contaminants in oil but the ones outlined here

Actually oil does lose it's 'oiliness'. at least it degrades over time/usage.

this is nuts-- you should fit an oil filter if you can,
for starters , Volkswagen's did not have oil filters because the design was initiated in the '30's, when cars did generally not have oil filters coincidently at a time when valve grind, rings & bearings & rebores were considered as a normal regular service requirement (also due to the far inferior fuel & oil of the time), oil filters did not begin to become a regular fitting until the fifties, & they were messy cartridges inside a heavy, bulky & frequently leaking canister. the fitting of the spin on oil filter to the type 4 motor had nothing to do with the type 2 commercial vehicle application (rumour has it that there are VW commercial vehicles that were fitted with the earlier type motor for a number of years) the type 4 motor has an oil filter simply because of the period of its design.
or so I think, maybe

Can you get a bolt on pump/filter like the maxi pump 2 anywhere in Melbourne?

Try your local friendly VW forum sposor, (Volkspower). If they don't have them I know Mick Motors have them and ship all over Aust.
:thumb

well, i know this is an OLD thread, but I just got done having fits with my damned CB maxi pump 2 and thought I would gripe and share a bit...

Ive blown oil filters apart myself on the 2-liter I built back in the day. That engine was a legit full-flow setup with seamless, stainless steel hard line (hand-bent myself) tubing. This material has a several thousand psi rating and is used at power and gas plants here in CA. I wanted overkill and I used this stuff because my dad had the hookup on swagelock fittings and this special tubing. This setup (included a high-flow anti-drainback valve as well as an electric fanned oil cooler) was super trick but I had to buy the Fram HP-1 performance filters to prevent filter explosions, and that was with a dual-filter mount, so two-per oil change. That got old quick.

FFW to today, after leaving VW's for mustangs and camaros (the 04 Cobra sits in the garage until I have to wrench on the VW) I bought a 72 bug because gas prices went through the roof recently.

Synthetic oil is simply the only way to go, and especially in an aircooled engine (IMO) but it's expensive so I wanted a filter on my stock 1600. I bought the maxi pump 2 from CB (they're only hours from where I live) and from what I can tell, this thing will be great for a stock motor as my intentions are only to get the full life of the Mobile 1 I buy.

side note on synthetic oil life:
There's a guy who maintains a research website and his driver is a Z28. He has every oil change analyzed and tracks this with notes, and then changes brands of oil to compare them.

With the Mobil 1 he can get 15000 miles out of an oil change. The normal topping off of the oil level has a huge rejuvination affect on the crankcase supply and the author of this whole effort believes Mobile 1, although not 100% synthetic, is still pretty high on the list of quality. Considering it's availability around here, it's a no-brainer for me.

But dumping it every 1-3k is just stupid.

So on went the maxi pump 2 and im pissed because CB has absolutely no mention in any material (that I've laid eyes on anyway) that the stock (behind-the-crank-pulley) tin will need to be cut for clearance in order for the crank pulley to fit.

So I have a CB aluminum pulley that rubs on my tin because of my CB pump. Great job, Claude!

So my Basil Hayden's and I are out on a web-quest to find anyone who may have already modded their tin, but I haven't found any yet and this thread is the most detailed I've come across that discusses different setups and I figured I would contribute what I can.

If you buy a Maxi Pump 2, ensure you've provisions for careful cutting/grinding of engine tins.

I made the (thus far) mistake of deciding to turn my VW engine into an ad-hoc lathe. Should you do the same, be prepared for an engine compartment full of aluminum shavings, spent and dulled bastard files, and Frustration (yes, a capital F) over the fact that CB gets so close to having an ideal setup yet misses the boat on the big picture. In fact, they could make even more money (that I'd be happy to spend) by making a specially modded tin to buy WITH the pump.

Ah.. if only I were King.

Cheers!

[ Edited on 20-6-2006 by turbocake ]

Hey, if you want to change your oil every 2-3000 miles then do it! That said...oil filter technology has improved greatly over the decades and they do a superb job of removing contaminants. Just look at new cars that have their first service at 10,000 km! I converted to full flow when I rebuilt my type 3's engine. I also run Mobil 1. Clean lubricating oil is vital in any engine and the vw screen does nothing more than trap the pieces of gasket goo that your mechanic drops into the crankcase when he stops an oil leak! A bit sarcastic perhaps...and oils ain't oils especially in a aircooled motor.
Cheers,
Toby :thumb