Take one 6v 1300 67 bug. Then want to fit a new motor to it , say a 2110. My original box will be good for poop so what swingaxle box do i look out for? Once i have the box it will go off to be sorted but i'll need one in the first place. What axles should i then use? Basically i want the transmission to suit the motor. What year do i go for a a basis bearing in mind it's staying swingaxle? What other mods are needed to fit this box nicely into my 67 , mounts , straps etc. Finally i've already asked but what other things can i do to help stop wheel judder. Is it a traction bar ? Sorry about all the questions but you have to ask!



Cheers Dan

my 2c, 1500 low ratio box, rebuilt, maybe with heavy duty gears or something, superdiff like dasdubber put in the bug, rear susp setup similar to his, hard mounted, change the nosecone, maybe a tranny strap to stop wheel hop if they actually work, traction bar, camber compensator, get one with the old style leather and shit, real cool, ...... theyts how an amateur would do it, lets see what the people in the know say

If you don't want to go close ratio gears yet, I would choose a late 1300 box from a '71 to '74 Beetle, it gives you a nice low ratio (4.375 ring and pinion), has the late throw out fork, and is a good base to do more with later.

Fit early narrow axles so your rear wheel track stays the same too.

i agree the 71 1300 box would be a great starting point but would it handle the power?? i had a fairly hot 1835 running through one and it lasted a while but all the hard launch's killed it and the next 3 i had... i dont just mean drag's just day to day driving(ok i am heavy with the right foot) I had to go to the 1500 and it lasted fine. Danny's talking about going a 2110 and i am guessing its going to be quite wild.. .. what you think?


steff...............................

Thanks Dave , so i need look for a 71-74 1300 box and retain my axles? What other bits do i require to do the swop? Excuse the Q's but never done this before. I'd more than likely want C/R gears etc sorted before i do the whole engine /box / 12V conversion. Planning some thing nice to bolt onto it! (Still!) .

Cheers
Dan

You will just need to use an early front nose cone so you can fit an early front mount, late boxes use the soft engine mounts and the nose cone is different.

Dubcrazy, funny how you had problems with a late 1300 box, they are a stronger box than the 1500 box, eg splined 3 and 4th gears, stronger diff gears, and a stronger ring and pinion. Maybe it was a bad box to begin with?

danny pop me an email and when u find one ill come over and help you change em over if you want, just finished doin mine so ill pack some toold and go for a cruz if you want?

Adam nice one i'll take you up on that. Won't be for a while , still got to get a 12V cpnversion to buy and oh yea , a motor! Thanks though , would want to do it myself if possible and learn abit plus need a hand , tools etc.

Guys what front mount would be best to fit? What about others? Straps?

Thanks for the advise , some good news to push me along!

Dan

This is the safest setup. It'll will cost bucks to start with, but if you drive right, you'll never break it. If you really want to go nuts, you can use a new rhino case. Shimmo or Hans Klaack could build the box for you.

berg front mount is great. The stock nosecone mount isnt needed at all. Its more secure than a tranny strap.

I used the nose cone from an early kombi (split screen) to adapt my 1500 gerabox to a 1300 case in my 54 beetle... well, my mechanic did it. The kombi nose-cone was used because it has a longer hockey-stick than a T1. Though he did mention that the shift rod is slighty off center now. The shift rod coupling doesnt bind on the body though

[Edited on 22-7-2004 by oval TOFU]